Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

$35 in Canberra? Where Lucien????

My cable has been rattling since I've owned the car, and I'm keen to get it replaced...

Not in Canberra, but GaugeWorks in SA. Its $35 to have the inner cable replaced, and a few dollars more to replace the connectors at each end. All up GaugeWorks charged me $58 (inc postage). I sent it on Tuesday and had it back on Friday.

I've just finished installing it, so if you have any questions, fire away.

Fair enough. Its a pretty "simple" job in terms of skills. I must confess I did it the dangerous way with the tyre jack that comes in the boot (highly not recommended if you value your life). Basically goes a little like this:

1. Remove bottom dash. Remove the surrounds from the steering column. Remove the dash surround. Remove the gauge cluster.

2. Disconnect the speedo cable from the dash (it clips in).

3. Disconnect the speedo cable from the gearbox.

4. From underneath the car, look up at the firewall where the speedo cable passes through. There is a rubber triangle with three bolts (10mm; two at the bottom, one at the top). Remove the bolts and pull out the triangle.

5. The speedo cable has a number of plastic cylinders on it that hook on to points of the underbody. Unclip them. You need to feed the speedo cable towards the rear of the car until the end that connects to the speedo is out of the cabin.

6. You will then need to feed the cable towards the front of the car to actually get it out as the rubber triangle is too big to pass all the obstructions when feeding it to the rear of the car.

As I said, pretty simple. All you really need is a jack, a ratchet with 10mm socket, an adjustable wrench (or a spanner of some unknown size) and a phillips head screwdriver.. and some patience :P

  • 2 weeks later...

May be a dumb question but my mates speedo stopped working then about 10 mins later his power steering cut out and would stay off until the car was switched off, then it would work again for a little while.... Tonight my speedo stopped working then about 10 mins later my power steering did the same thing, is this a common thing too, or just a very weird coincidence?????

It is related.

Where the cable goes into the rear of the speedo module, there is a pickup for ground speed.

No cable rotate : No ground speed signal sent to control modules.

The ~10 mins is the failsafe timeout.

James.

Made my day too!! :wub:

Ive been driving around with no cable for ages. Took it out cos I buggered it when taking out the dash. Hopefully when I put a new one in, all will be good :stupid:

So sick of turning the car off while driving and then clutching it back on LOL. Every ten minutes.

  • 1 month later...

sorry to bring up an old thread, but i just wanted to say that when i repaired my speedo plastic needle with electrical heat shrink, it eventually desintegrated and my speedo failed to work again.

I have since purchased a new gtr speedo cable brand new from nissan at 90 bucks trade price. spent about 2 hours removing and refitting, if anyone has done it, OMFG I HATE THE TRIANGLE BIT.

On a related issue, done anyone have a probelm when the go above a speed limit and the needle kinda "sticks" then moves, "sticks" then moves? ie. its not smooth movement? mine seems to do it after 110. really gay, but not a big issue as im a good boy and stick to the 110km/h limit :D:P

  • 3 weeks later...

may be a dumb question but on the dash end of the speedo cable, is the white plastic thingy with the spring inside it ment to be attached to the metal end of the speedo cable housing? or does it just sit in there on top of it freely? i can just pull it straight out??

cheers

Josh

Edited by Josh_r32
actually its part of the cable and should not come out if its new.. sounds like you got the problem we have all had... soon it will get stuffed and you will have to let nissan hold onto your wallet.

bye bye

thanks, so if i get a new cable it will come with the plastic bit with the spring inside it etc all attached?

Edited by Josh_r32
thanks, so if i get a new cable it will come with the plastic bit with the spring inside it etc all attached?

yep about 100 bucks. if you check my SIGNATURE, i will have u the part number tonight. about 10pm brisbane time.

Edited by arbess
  • 3 weeks later...
On a related issue, done anyone have a probelm when the go above a speed limit and the needle kinda "sticks" then moves, "sticks" then moves? ie. its not smooth movement? mine seems to do it after 110. really gay, but not a big issue as im a good boy and stick to the 110km/h limit :):D

Yep. Yours will probably also do it at really low speeds, like <30kmh

And yeah, totally ghey. I thought it only happened with old speedo cables though? Weird.

  • 1 month later...

Would the speedo cable be suspect in my case?

This happens 80% of the time when driving. My speedo needle MOVES, but it moves not in accordance to the speed i'm actually doing. So for example, i accelerate to what 60kmh should be and its hovering around the 180-190+ mark. If i do 100, it moves all the way round and stops at the bottom of the rest pin.

Once in a while it'll go back to normal and show the correct speed. Then 5 mins later it's doing crazy stuff all over again.

I also have no idea how to get the cluster out to check it. Is there a tutorial on this?

Yes and yes. :rolleyes:

Tutorial to get your dash cluster out:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115618

Haven't seen one for replacing the cable but there are lots of threads with references to doing the job.

HTH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...