Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Speedo Cable Problems

Dahtone Racing

By Dahtone Racing,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
$35 in Canberra? Where Lucien????

My cable has been rattling since I've owned the car, and I'm keen to get it replaced...

Not in Canberra, but GaugeWorks in SA. Its $35 to have the inner cable replaced, and a few dollars more to replace the connectors at each end. All up GaugeWorks charged me $58 (inc postage). I sent it on Tuesday and had it back on Friday.

I've just finished installing it, so if you have any questions, fire away.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Fair enough. Its a pretty "simple" job in terms of skills. I must confess I did it the dangerous way with the tyre jack that comes in the boot (highly not recommended if you value your life). Basically goes a little like this:

1. Remove bottom dash. Remove the surrounds from the steering column. Remove the dash surround. Remove the gauge cluster.

2. Disconnect the speedo cable from the dash (it clips in).

3. Disconnect the speedo cable from the gearbox.

4. From underneath the car, look up at the firewall where the speedo cable passes through. There is a rubber triangle with three bolts (10mm; two at the bottom, one at the top). Remove the bolts and pull out the triangle.

5. The speedo cable has a number of plastic cylinders on it that hook on to points of the underbody. Unclip them. You need to feed the speedo cable towards the rear of the car until the end that connects to the speedo is out of the cabin.

6. You will then need to feed the cable towards the front of the car to actually get it out as the rubber triangle is too big to pass all the obstructions when feeding it to the rear of the car.

As I said, pretty simple. All you really need is a jack, a ratchet with 10mm socket, an adjustable wrench (or a spanner of some unknown size) and a phillips head screwdriver.. and some patience :P

  • 2 weeks later...
Jays_5000 Collaborator

Jays_5000

Posted
Posted

May be a dumb question but my mates speedo stopped working then about 10 mins later his power steering cut out and would stay off until the car was switched off, then it would work again for a little while.... Tonight my speedo stopped working then about 10 mins later my power steering did the same thing, is this a common thing too, or just a very weird coincidence?????

heller44 Mentor

heller44

Posted
Posted

It is related.

Where the cable goes into the rear of the speedo module, there is a pickup for ground speed.

No cable rotate : No ground speed signal sent to control modules.

The ~10 mins is the failsafe timeout.

James.

Yidz Experienced

Yidz

Posted
Posted

Made my day too!! :wub:

Ive been driving around with no cable for ages. Took it out cos I buggered it when taking out the dash. Hopefully when I put a new one in, all will be good :stupid:

So sick of turning the car off while driving and then clutching it back on LOL. Every ten minutes.

  • 1 month later...
arbess Experienced

arbess

Posted
Posted

sorry to bring up an old thread, but i just wanted to say that when i repaired my speedo plastic needle with electrical heat shrink, it eventually desintegrated and my speedo failed to work again.

I have since purchased a new gtr speedo cable brand new from nissan at 90 bucks trade price. spent about 2 hours removing and refitting, if anyone has done it, OMFG I HATE THE TRIANGLE BIT.

On a related issue, done anyone have a probelm when the go above a speed limit and the needle kinda "sticks" then moves, "sticks" then moves? ie. its not smooth movement? mine seems to do it after 110. really gay, but not a big issue as im a good boy and stick to the 110km/h limit :D:P

  • 3 weeks later...
Josh_r32 Rising Star

Josh_r32

Posted
Posted (edited)

may be a dumb question but on the dash end of the speedo cable, is the white plastic thingy with the spring inside it ment to be attached to the metal end of the speedo cable housing? or does it just sit in there on top of it freely? i can just pull it straight out??

cheers

Josh

Edited by Josh_r32
Josh_r32 Rising Star

Josh_r32

Posted
Posted (edited)
actually its part of the cable and should not come out if its new.. sounds like you got the problem we have all had... soon it will get stuffed and you will have to let nissan hold onto your wallet.

bye bye

thanks, so if i get a new cable it will come with the plastic bit with the spring inside it etc all attached?

Edited by Josh_r32
arbess Experienced

arbess

Posted
Posted (edited)
thanks, so if i get a new cable it will come with the plastic bit with the spring inside it etc all attached?

yep about 100 bucks. if you check my SIGNATURE, i will have u the part number tonight. about 10pm brisbane time.

Edited by arbess
  • 3 weeks later...
cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted
On a related issue, done anyone have a probelm when the go above a speed limit and the needle kinda "sticks" then moves, "sticks" then moves? ie. its not smooth movement? mine seems to do it after 110. really gay, but not a big issue as im a good boy and stick to the 110km/h limit :):D

Yep. Yours will probably also do it at really low speeds, like <30kmh

And yeah, totally ghey. I thought it only happened with old speedo cables though? Weird.

  • 1 month later...
dan.1337 Proficient

dan.1337

Posted
Posted

Would the speedo cable be suspect in my case?

This happens 80% of the time when driving. My speedo needle MOVES, but it moves not in accordance to the speed i'm actually doing. So for example, i accelerate to what 60kmh should be and its hovering around the 180-190+ mark. If i do 100, it moves all the way round and stops at the bottom of the rest pin.

Once in a while it'll go back to normal and show the correct speed. Then 5 mins later it's doing crazy stuff all over again.

I also have no idea how to get the cluster out to check it. Is there a tutorial on this?

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted

Yes and yes. :rolleyes:

Tutorial to get your dash cluster out:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115618

Haven't seen one for replacing the cable but there are lots of threads with references to doing the job.

HTH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • EndZee
      R33 Gts/-t Abs Module Wiring Schematic (not Gt-r)

      By EndZee · Posted

      Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...