Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

attachment.php?s=&postid=136771

Ok its a catch can which i plan on running the two lines from the cam covers into each inlet of the can.

I was told if wont work as good as 1 with an atmo vent with filter in it so that it lets off pressure and the oil vapour out to the atmosphere not letting it go back into the intake to burn up like this can would!!

Also is has a little screw at the bottom which i assume can be used for draining any oil out or running a line back to the sump.

I know that greedy and apexi make catch cans like mine without the atmo ventilaton and filter!

So whats the story here?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9789-how-well-will-this-work/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Why are you so keen on getting one of them fitted? Isn't that more important for much higher HP than you currently have where the oil runs much hotter?

Mine is pretty much specc'ed up same as yours and i see no particular need for one.

Originally posted by predator666

Why are you so keen on getting one of them fitted? Isn't that more important for much higher HP than you currently have where the oil runs much hotter?

Mine is pretty much specc'ed up same as yours and i see no particular need for one.

coz i got it for free so i wanna use it!

u got the same type?

your the engineer inasnt you should be explaining to us why it should work and dont give me any rubbish your an electrical engineer.

:P

I prefer the one like you have an pred they are good pull you cooler pipes off and have a look how much oil is in there

btw inasnt they are illegal

cheers

Originally posted by INASNT

I was told if wont work as good as 1 with an atmo vent with filter in it so that it lets off pressure and the oil vapour out to the atmosphere not letting it go back into the intake to burn up like this can would!!

Thats about right, without a vent to atmosphere the catch can won't be doing anything. It'll actually cause problems if its a sealed system, as pressure will build up under the rocker cover similar to when the pcv valve gets blocked. BTW, with only two nipples theres no provision to return oil vapour back into the intake to burn up.

Originally posted by predator666

Mine is pretty much specc'ed up same as yours and i see no particular need for one.

I find it indispensable. Really useful for not having oil gumming up the idle control valve, intake manifold and intercooler. Not to mention the knock saving properties of no oil in intake charge.

Originally posted by Gradenko

Thats about right, without a vent to atmosphere the catch can won't be doing anything. It'll actually cause problems if its a sealed system, as pressure will build up under the rocker cover similar to when the pcv valve gets blocked. BTW, with only two nipples theres no provision to return oil vapour back into the intake to burn up.

I find it indispensable. Really useful for not having oil gumming up the idle control valve, intake manifold and intercooler. Not to mention the knock saving properties of no oil in intake charge.

so u saying its useless?? the greddy and apexi 1'c are the same design tho!!

meggalla

i have to think to much at work, i CBF thinking when at home! :D

Illegal?? u already know i dont really care!! :P

the venting of the air has to be at the top otherwise you will get oil dripping out

The benefit of these are to stop oil contaminated air re entering the motor which reduces the chanced of detonation. Thay are pretty much a standard fitment to all turbo cars running decent boost.

I thought you'd run one hose from the cam covers (you know how they both run into one hose) to one nipple of the catch can, then the other nipple would feed back into the intake system.

The oil vapours get caught inside the can and the clean filtered air gets returned to the intake system.

And the screw on the bottom of the can is to drain the oil out when the level (as indicated in that glass tube up the side of it) gets too high??

A sealed system like this is legal, the filter ones are a no no.

Or am I totally off the mark?

Jay95R33, your completley correct. Thats the other way these things can be set up. I don't much car for legalities though, I want no trace of oil vapours (filtered or not) in my intake. :P The can INASNT has doesn't look like it filters though, the nipples are too close together to do that.

Yeah true. No vapours has gotta be better.

I've seen a cut away diagram of a Cucso one that was simular to the one in the pic, and it had three chambers in it, the first was where the cam cover came in, and that was open at the bottom to the middle chamber and the middle chamber was then open at the top to the third chamber which went back to the intake.

The middle chamber was packed full of this stainless wire stuff??

So the oil had to go down into the middle, then get trapped in the wire stuff, and the the clean(ish) air went up to the third part.

Looked cool, and pretty simple really.

So the oil had to go down into the middle, then get trapped in the wire stuff, and the the clean(ish) air went up to the third part.

Thats how they work, and if you have ever seen the oil poored from these things after a track day then you know they work (it could have been the guys engine was pretty tired)

People like BOC Gases use the same principal in their gas scrubbers, so it is a process used with much more critical applications then automotive. It does work!

Either way i suppose it has the same effect, however as mentioned venting to atmosphere is illegal (come on guys & gals lets make some effort to get along with authorities:D ) and it leaves you engine bay with a pretty unsighlty film of oil, not to mention fumes.

You can fun a hose off the top down to the belly of the car, but again i dont know enough about the aerodynamics and flow to say the bottom of your car or worse the back wont get covered in a film of oil.

Originally posted by Jay95R33

Yeah true.  No vapours has gotta be better.

I've seen a cut away diagram of a Cucso one that was simular to the one in the pic, and it had three chambers in it, the first was where the cam cover came in, and that was open at the bottom to the middle chamber and the middle chamber was then open at the top to the third chamber which went back to the intake.

The middle chamber was packed full of this stainless wire stuff??

So the oil had to go down into the middle, then get trapped in the wire stuff, and the the clean(ish) air went up to the third part.

Looked cool, and pretty simple really.

ok so if i join the 2 lines off the cam covers with a T piece into 1 of the inlets and then from the other port on the can to the intake it will work properly!

Can u tell us where u saw the cutaway from cusco can.

Also where on the intake to u join the line back up for the clean air from the catch can?

cheers

Tell you the truth I can't remember where I saw that cut away picture.

Yeah that's it, if you have a look at the standard set up that should be there ATM, the left cam cover goes to the right, then one hose comes off the right and goes back into the intake.

What you should do is cut that pipe that goes from the right cam cover to the intake and put your catch can in line with it.

So it'll filter the air that's from both cam covers.

Does that make sense?

J

Can someone explain the flow of these things ? I wanna DIY my own, to get rid of the coating of oil in my intake system...

Could i - In theory, Block the hose that goes to the intake altogether ?

Does the engine NEED some oil in the intake ?

Has anyone else done a DIY jobbie here ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...