Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the topic states will gtr standard cams and cam gears fit onto a rb20det, cause i have seen a few cars around on for sale sections saying they have them fitted on, i wanna konw if thats just crap talk or if it is really done, and also what difference is makes, is it minor or does it do some good?

thanks for your time

shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98064-standard-gtr-cams-and-cam-gear/
Share on other sites

Hi Shaun

Dude I have an RB26 not RB20, so this is just what I've read on SAU and HPI etc. The cams will fit but apparently they aren't terribly good on an RB20 and the dynoed car actually produced less power than with the stock cams. Someone smarter than me will know why.

Not sure about the cam gears and I really wish I could find that thread/article. Might have been the HPI article where they 'made' an RB24...?

Cheers

Mark

Been plenty of threads on here about fitting them. Has been done, run a search.

I say why though.

Get a profile that suits your engine and required outcome.

If you are planning on just wacking them in and gaining a worthwhile performance improvement you would be wrong.

If you put in the GTR cams, you also have to run all the GTR lifters and swap all the valve springs as well.

Like RB30 said....better off getting another cam that suits your engine. The GTR cams are a solid cam, whereas the GTST cams are hydraulic.

The GTR cams have a 9mm (?) lift and the GTST ones have 8.5mm

It would cost you a fortune to put in the GTR cams....picture the cost of doing a head gasket.....plus the cost of the cams, lifters, and springs. $2000 I reckon. You will get better results from bolting in a set of Tomei Pon cams and they are only $800 delivered.

ok you are a long way off base mate. plenty of people have installed GTR cams into RB20 without haveing to replace the whole valve train. also can you tell me why you'd need to change the headgasket to install cams? solid cam vs hydraulic cam? no such thing mate. perhaps you are talking about hydraulic lifters. now i am no RB20 expert but i am about 90% sure they have solid lifters (like an rb26) not hydraulic.

Well, I'm sorry that you are wrong. The RB20 lifters are hydraulic. The GTR ones are solid shimmable buckets. And you DO have to remove the head to change it over properly because you need to remove the valves and springs to change them over as well. The GTR cams have a much greater lift and will f**k the Rb20 valve springs. And BTW, there is such thing as hydraulic cam and solid cam. If you've ever done ANY engine building in your time you would know that.

well there are no 'hydraulic cams' in any RB engine. RB25s have hyrdraulic lifters and as such have a cam to suit, but other than being different specs (mainly lower lift, shorter duration and different base circle) the cams are not hydraulic themselves. like i said above i still think you are talking about the lifter mechanisms being hydraulic.

as for RB20s having hydraulic lifters, i do stand corrected then. i have never had an RB20 head appart so i wasn't sure. thanks for clearing that up for me :)

with the cam swap there have been a number of people who have done it here and none of them that i know of have had to change the valves, or the springs, or anything to do with the valvetrain other than the cams. some have had sucess with the swap, some have had problems. I do agree that it may not be worth it, though if you are on a tight budget you can get some GTR cams for about $200 and that's about all you need vs bolt in jap cams at $800. the jap cams will no doubt give a better result though, but cost 4 times as much.

I am not referring to the cam being physically hydraulic. A hydraulic cam is used to refer to the fact it follows hydraulic lifters. You cannot use a hydraulic cam on solid lifters or vice versa. The solid GTR cam must be used in conjunction with the solid GTR lifters. The valve springs don't absolutely have to be changed but you will suffer valve bounce from around 6500rpm because the rb20 springs are not designed for a 9mm lift. Sure you can bolt them in...but you are stupid if you do. It would be like saying....I can only afford 4 forged pistons so I'm gonna run 4 forged and 2 cast. You can still do it but you will suffer in the long run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...