Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i been searching around forums and you all know im new here and new to skylines and turbos,could anyone explain or direct me to a thread that explains both what boost is how it works, and psi i read in a number of threads ppl changing psi etc really wanna know what it is and how boost gauges work sorry if i sound like a newbie but id really like to know thnx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/
Share on other sites

'boost' is what a turbo creates.

a 'normal' engine, ie one without a turbo works by sucking air in, mixing it with fuel, igniting it and using the explosion to turn the crank, thus creating power.

so say you had a 5.7L V8, it would at any time have 5.7L of air/fuel in it to be ignited, and obviously more air/fuel will cause a bigger explosion, and thus create more power.

now, a turbo engine works by the turbo 'forcing' air into the engine, mixing it with fuel, igniting it and using the explosion to turn the crank, again creating power.

this is why you see alot of the turbo engines are alot smaller, ie the 2.0, 2.5, and 2.6L of the skyline, yet they can still pump out the same power as a big V6, or even a V8. say you have a RB25DET, 2.5L turbo. now whilst the turbo hasnt kicked in(ie low revs) the engine will have approx. 2.5L of air/fuel in it to ignite, and create power with, *but* once that turbo kicks in, say you are running 1 bar(14.7psi of boost, ill explain this in a bit) you are effectively pushing twice the amount of air into the engine, so that 2.5L engine is taking in as much as a say a 5L engine.

now onto 'psi', the word stands for pounds per square inch.

a normal, un-turboed engine runs at negative psi, meaning that the engine is *sucking* in air.

however a turbo engine runs *positive* psi, meaning that air is being forced into the engine, and the higher the psi, the more pressure, or 'boost' your turbo is creating.

say you had again 2 RB25DET's this time... engine A running 7.5psi of boost, and engine B running 15psi of boost.

now engine A will have approx. 3.75L of air/fuel in it at any time, whereas engine B will have approx 5L of of air/fuel in it at any time.. so the more psi your turbo makes, the more boost created, making your engine effectively larger, and creating more power.

now i better get an A for this essay... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/#findComment-1788456
Share on other sites

if its got an aftermarket boost gauge, it should show you what psi/kpa it hits (1000kpa == 14.7psi) or if it has just the stock boost gauge in the dash, work off this... the +7 at the top is about 14.7psi, and yours will probably hit around the middle mark, so ~7-10psi

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/#findComment-1788490
Share on other sites

thnx alot mitchy that was very helpfull i should be getting m ycar in around 2 weeks how do u know wat psi your turbo is on or wateva sorry if im saying it wrong

hey Sammie,

i through i add my 2cents and see if i can help you :D

The stock turbo has something on it called an Actuator, this controlls boost on your turbo. When your car is stock the turbo should run around 5-6psi. But if you start to mod your skyline like putting an airfilter or exhuast the boost will slowly go up by abit, so you may be running 9-10psi.

Thats why its always good to get an aftermarket boost gauge when you you start modding you car, as its good to know where your boost levels are at.

also another tip more boost doesnt always mean more power, if you boost your turbo out of its Effectiveness range (for example the stock turbo max lvl of boost is around 12psi) you will not make anymore power.

and good luck with the new car :(

-Michael :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/#findComment-1788660
Share on other sites

some very important facts about turbocharging also to note:

more psi or more boost means more heat

more psi or more boost doesnt always mean more power

compressing the air intake (or making boost) heats up the air, thus a need for an intercooler

an intercooler takes the heat charge off the air intake after it is compress, most people think it cools the engine down.

a boost controller can be a wastegate (external) or internal wastegate flat controlled by an actuator

boost is a resistance to air, if you add more boost you generally make more power upto a certain limit which will be the limit of compressor wheel, once you reach this limit any more psi over it generally just adds stacks more heat and it makes no more power

a bigger a/r turbocharger will come on later in the rpm range but make more power top end.

a smaller a/r turbocharger will come on earilier in the rpm range but make less power in top end.

a/r is a measurement for area / radius. a stock r33 turbocharger (gtst model) is around 0.50a/r

cars that run a twin turbo setup generally use two smaller a/r turbochargers and a single turbo car generally runs a larger single unit

pressure and volume are two different things

if one car runs 12psi and another runs 9psi this means absolutely nothing other than the amount of pressure they run

the less boost you run the better, the less friction, the less heat, the less lag and stress. make the required power at the least amount of boost possible

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/#findComment-1788697
Share on other sites

heyas, since we're on the topic....I've recently bought a 33 GTS-T, everything stock. I'm surprised to find that when the needle sits half way between +7 and 0 it means around 7-10 psi....I originally thought that it would mean 3-4 psi. If this is true, then I rekon my skyline ain't that quick :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/#findComment-1789522
Share on other sites

heyas, since we're on the topic....I've recently bought a 33 GTS-T, everything stock. I'm surprised to find that when the needle sits half way between +7 and 0 it means around 7-10 psi....I originally thought that it would mean 3-4 psi. If this is true, then I rekon my skyline ain't that quick :)

EDIT: I'm a dumbass. Sorry brain fry

No halfway should mean 7psi. 7mmHg is about 1bar (14.7psi).

Stock should be about 5psi till 4500rpm then go up to 7psi.

Edited by shif_tea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/98417-question/#findComment-1792489
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...