Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-183229
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :D

However check out the mags carbon fibre bonnet, interior, body work... that thing has GTR body (by body i don't mean spoilers, i mean flares and guards) kit.. anoyone know where you can get a cheap GTR flare/guard kit? would be worth a bit? spoke to Jash about it and seemed quite expensive :-(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-184619
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

I agree, it might have just over 300kw@wheels... but it isnt worth $45k. You could buy a r33 and build it for less. My 1994 r33 cost me $17400, I've got nearly 200kw@wheels and have probably spent about $4k on engine mods if that, for another $10-$15k I reckon I could get near on 300kw@wheels. So thats $37k all up, either way a GTR would be about the same money and still beat it in stock form down the 1/4 :D

Dude, the car has a 10k turbo kit on it - think you might have trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-185062
Share on other sites

that guy has spent WELL over $44,000 on the car. i dont think you can make outrageous claims like that.

maybe youd have 300kw at the wheels but youd be rollin around in 15" wheels, stock bodykitted piece of crap. that car's panel work would be very expensive, wheels, suspension etc etc for under $44,000 inc the initial price of the car? your dreaming

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-187565
Share on other sites

The car has had a very hard life too.

I mean denzo has been driving it!

$45k is expensive, for a time bomb.

I can get hold of a few better cars in japan that have had just as hard a life for less. More power, more $$ worth of parts and much better looking.

Check my avitar -- landed and complied (hurry you only have days left) it would be under $30k. 800PS at the tyres, OS giken diff, gear box, Ogura 4plater , mega buck RB26 blah blah blah...

An R33 GTST is always an R33 GTST, thats what is says on the comp. plate. And that is all the market cares about.

If you modify a car thinking you can make a profit on its sale then you are insane. Just ask Ford or Holden (they don't sell enough to cover costs).

If you expect to recover even 1/2 of what you spent you are either ignorant or a used car salesperson.

That said it's a nice car. Good luck to them trying to sell it for $45k they will need it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9868-jms-r33/#findComment-199432
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...