Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Can I just make a point here, firslty, if you want a laggy turbo on an rb20 then you got to enter your corner pretty hard cause you wont be able to spin it up fast enough on a slow entry, unless you pop the clutch. So I recon the bigger the turbo the harder the entry and also you dont have the car on full throttle all the way through the drift, so you only really running about 60-80% on the throttle. I recon your better suited to something a little smaller rather than bigger on the rb20.

waldo, all due respect but i think you are going about this the wrong way. for a nice quick driftable car something like an HKS 2530 will be perfect for you. 180 to 200 rwkw is plenty for fun in a GTST and will give you great throttle response (well better than the trust kit). Don't get me wrong, the trust kit is great but i don't think it's well suited to your purpose.

2530 is great on an rb20.

around easter creek i can hold 3rd thru some of the corners where u can use 2nd instead and it picks up really well, its getting 0.5bar @ 3000rpm and 1 bar at ~3600rpm which i think is don and 1.25bar @ ~4000rpm

roys setup is making a much nicer top end

What lap time are you running around Eastern Creek and on what rubber??? (This is Roy, co9uldnt be bothered logging out and in :) ) I did notice at Eastern with the TD06 i did struggle on Turn 7 :)

Hey Roy, is this the same one you are using, its from nengun for about 2 grand. Also do you no what the specs are? Do you think the turbo is at its limit on your car or do you think it still has some left, thanks.

Just curious what it would compare to in the garret gt range.

Type TD-06S , Compression Housing 20G, Exhaust Housing 8.0cm2

Edited by grim32

try asking James on NS about trying to drift his 4 door 32 wt td06 25g (he bought the kit of the guy in the hpi write up) from what he has said to me its lag city

It all depends on the track your going to be drifiting my 2530 makes my life hard going around Port G as its such a small track.

On a track like Mallala I'd probably be very happy with the 2530

just remember to do lots of limiter clutch dumps works for me

well i drift at queensland raceway and it has to be one of the fastest tracks in aussie... it doesnt have tight corners anywhere really they are really long high speed turns. So it should probably suit this track as it would be better to have a really nice top end power band than low down.

heres some more pics of mine...im not sure wat the trims are on these but its a 20g housing.

TD=mhi turbo

06=turbine WHEEL

20g=comp WHEEL

L=SUPER BACK comp wheel

s=flat back comp wheel

h=large turbine

exhaust housing you already know the sizing

comp housing is the big long part no. on the front of it

cheeres :O

td06=mad turbo; so very underated :D

Edited by T04GTR

cheers for that info mate.....does anybody know wat size the oil fiting is for the oil feed for these jigas..also because the stock turbo has oil + water lines and i only need oil ones...wat do i do with the existing water lines..do i just bung the holes in the block or do i get a hose made up to link both holes? i just want to get all the oil and water lines done soon.

cheers

Waldo, looking at the rear housing on that turbo, i wouldnt even bother putting it on the car...any money spent plumbing that bad boy up would be dead money. Run Straight out and buy an external gate exhaust housing for it...looking at that rear housing m not surprised that the T3 flanged TD06s dont make the power they should.

Of course i could be very, very , very wrong, but i flat out dont like howthe turbine and wastegate is set up, turbulence / back pressure city which means cant run as much ignition, combustion chambers full of already combusted air, and poor flow....

1400r, as others have siad in this post, the 20G and 25G are two very different turbos

And grim32; Type TD-06S , Compression Housing 20G, Exhaust Housing 8.0cm2... Sounds similar, but i think mine is the TD06L2-20G, cant be sure though as it came off a twin GTR kit

i was sorta thinking that with this type of exhuast housing it shouldnt effect the spool up much...as ill be running an electronic boost controller...and the wastegate will stay completely shut until its on full boost anyways...which it shouldnt affect spool up time but might cause it to struggle a bit when on full boost. i was under the impression that the wastegate stays completely shut until u hit full boost (with the use of an ebc). am i right or completely wrong lol.

I look at where you bolt your dump pipe to, and i see a large cavity, full of square edges. The when the thing finally hits the boost you want to run, the little wastegate flap opens and the air runs straight into a wall, then has to blend with the exhaust gases coming off the turbine which are already free to bounce around in the cavity before the dump pipe.

I hope Trust/Greddy no more then me, and it may work just fine. Are you sure thats a genuine Trust/Greddy housing on the turbo?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...