Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine are in the glovebox! jk...

Just wondering how other ppl's have theirs. I'm getting my brake pedal adjusted so its further in cos it's too close and I'm smacking my foot into the side of it (no matter how I adjust the seat etc).

Pedals are like this atm (front of the car is facing left and roughly lifesize):

A.....|............ \/ right foot hits here every time!

B................................|

C................................|

Changing to:

A.....|

B...................|

C................................|

I think they were already messed with for the pedal covers that I ripped out when I bought the car. Quiet scary when you go to brake and hook your foot up UNDER the brake pedal which I've done once or twice!

Edited by sl33py
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99027-where-are-your-pedals/
Share on other sites

For whoever cares...

Had the brake pedal set further in. Now it's crap for heel and toe (i.e. I can't do it any more). And now that I sit a little closer it feels like the gas pedal is too close. *sigh* A guy at the mechanic's owns an R33 and his is exactly where mine WAS, surprise, surprise. Sooo I'm gonna have the brake set back to stock and fix what I've realised is the root problem:

My clutch pedal goes all the way to the firewall when fully engaged. Now this is probably stock, but it annoys the hell out of me cos I use the clutch pedal to anchor my weight when I'm heel-toeing. In my last car (Civic, also with hydraulic clutch) I had it set so that it only travelled as far as needed to engage, not all the way to the firewall. I can't think of an alternative to adjusting the clutch stopping point for somewhere to putt my weight against during heel-toe, and for the other pedals to feel right at the same time.

I know u don't need to push the clutch all the way for it to be fully engaged, but I think it's better if when it's fully in, it's also as far as you can physically push it, otherwise u end up getting lazy and possibly not clutching properly. And for me cos of the anchor point reason.

Call me a p1cky f**ker but right now my right leg is caning me from sitting too close to the gas/brake pedals so that I can put the clutch all the way to the floor comfortably. I'm so close that when the clutch is in and I'm braking and I raise my knee slightly (to get my heel over the gas), I'm kneeing the steering wheel :rofl:

How tall are you?..

As for the cluctch, engagement postition is very short on my R33 - within a couple of inches i'd say of putting my foot on the clutch.. are you just pushing it all the way for the hell of it (as most ppl probably do..)

not much you can do if you don't fit properly I guess... try raising the steering wheel a bit as well.. see how you go..

why do you need to put all your weight on the clutch pedal? you shouldn't be stomping on anything like that. your weight should be on the seat. not on your clutch pedal. plus you should be on and off the clutch very quickly when down shifting so i can't see how you can be using it to brace yourself anyway.

Yeah I know clutch is fully engaged only 2"-3" from rest position but everyone I've ever talked to about this said the clutch should be pressed all the way no matter what, and I'm just used to it.

I'm only 167cm tall, so I'm not overly large or small, I just have trouble putting the clutch in all the way like I'm used to when I'm placed well for the brake and gas pedals. It's just very disconcerting with no anchor point for my weight while heel-toeing, or even just reversing down my drive way.

Well I press hard on it so I know the clutch is all the way in before changing gears (and yeah I change geers relatively quickly.. not slowly).

It's more of a confirmation thing.. u know?

As for when I'm reversing, I'm turned to the left to loko behind me and left arm holding the passenger seat.. so u can see I'd have to reach even further for the clutch during that time. So if I'm further than I like during normal driving, I've got even less control in this situation.

Until now, I've had the front of the seat all the way UP and the rear all the way DOWN to create an angle that does screw my right leg up so bad since I'm so close for the clutch. That's what's making me knee the wheel. But if I drop the front, my leg is straighter and the gas/brake feels even closer = more pain. Bah! I figure it's just plain WRONG when I've owned the car nearly two months now and haven't found a position I can just leave the seat in and be comfy.

yehhh mine also hits the firewall when fully pressed......

and when not pressed it sits about 3 or 4cm behind the brake pedal

ive been a little worried thinking sumtin has gone loose....:S

i gotta push the clutch all the way to the firewall, like literally......

Stupid car giving me soooo many headaches :):spank:

It's meant to be able to hit the firewall w3asel, but it shouldn't NEED to go that far to engage. Mine doesn't. The clutch probably shouldn't be at rest as far back as u describe (assuming u have stock pedal setup, mine's stock). Check the bracket(s) holding the pedals and stuff are still structurally sound, I've read they can weaken over time. If they look ok, maybe someone's changed the pedal position on you before u bought it, if it started out that way. If it's happened over time then maybe bleed ur clutch, am I right guys?

So far as I know though, bleeding the clutch only affects the catch point and get rids of sponginess and other problems, doesn't affect the travel of the overall pedal.

As stock: the clutch and brake pedals should be about even and the gas about a 1/2 inch closer to the firewall, maybe more. On the R33 I saw this morning, the clutch was slightly behind the brake pedal, but not 3-4cm like ur saying.

Anyway, my car's stock as, which is why I'm so annoyed I can't get comfy.

This is the last little thing bugging me with the car.. in 1.5 months, I've already had to replace the front rotors/pads, get the radiator flushed (was 3/4 blocked after 1 month of daily driving and one or two very brief high speed stints), the plastic part across the top of the radiator replaced, water pump replaced, throttle position sensor replaced, coilpacks replaced, sparkplugs replaced. *sigh* I WILL make it right lol

Personally I'm amazed a car can run with so many things either slightly or completely stuffed.

Edited by sl33py

Ive had my baby for a lil over 1 month and the stupid clutch has been giving me issues big time !

and plus i was dumb enough to bring it to a dodgy mechanic, who probably made it worse.........(dnt ask, i had no one else to goto to and i listened to my f*kd up brother lol)

thanks for the info sl33py :):spank::rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...