Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any one know what a brand new air flow meter is worth for a r33 gts-t at all. my sons r33 was running like crap so we cleaned the afr for very little difference .so then we took the afm off my r33 and bolted it onto his car and farken hell what a difference it made so much smoother and goes like a cat with deep heat on its nuts plus his car has been using so much fuel its not funny so im hoping the afm was the cause of that as well . really dont want to put a second hand one back on his car just in case it is half buggered as well but have no idea what a new one is worth ? anyone know and would you have to buy a geniune one from nissan or can you get after market ones?

cheers midlife crisis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99495-afm/
Share on other sites

I recently had the same problem mate. My afm was screwed when I bought the car. I got it reconditioned for $350. Took a while for them to get the specs right but when they did it really cracked. I have heard new afm's costing from about $700-$950 brand new! If you can try and find a decent second hand one or get it reconditioned like mine. New ones are pretty rare and expensive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99495-afm/#findComment-1813754
Share on other sites

gee i didnt think they would be that expensive might have to go the secong hand way . as for the ecu its just standed car just has a cat back exaust and a pod filter . he is not really chasing power as it goes pretty hard as it is just wants it to run clean , lol i dont hold much hope of getting my afm back of him now :-(

regards midlife crisis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99495-afm/#findComment-1813950
Share on other sites

If you can use a soldering iron why don't you have a go at repairing your old one?

I did mine a couple of weeks ago and it transformed the car.

No more black smoke, it no longer stalls or hiccups and I get another 100km a tank.

You just cut through the outside edge of the sealant around the cover panel and carefully pry it off.

Unsolder the metal shield on top of the circuit board.

It's best to remove the solder with some desoldering wick.

The problem with mine was where the socket pins are soldered to the circuit board the solder had cracked.

Probably from someone wriggling the plug to remove it.

Just heat where the pins cross with the tip of an iron to melt the solder and add a bit or fresh resin-cored solder to each joint.

I also did a blanket resolder of the whole board, while I had it apart, just to be sure there were no dry joints but I think it would have been ok if I hadn't.

Resolder the shield and reseal the cover with sikaflex or silicon and your done.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99495-afm/#findComment-1814266
Share on other sites

Cheap second hand SAFC will do the trick, scale the voltage back to the origional afm values.

Definitely worth while if you need an afm now and have plans to throw a safc on it anyway.

Think of it as for the price of a new std item from nissan you can have your self a bosch z32 + safc, making more power and slightly better fuel economy.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99495-afm/#findComment-1815762
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...