Jump to content
SAU Community

Help with cai partition on GTR

Micko

By Micko,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

Slouch ??? SLOUCH !!

Gees , first ya call it a jaffey jalopy and now you say it's a slouch.:)

This is obviously a relative term cos it will still hose a 33gtst fat spec.

hehehe.

Told ya , put the std box in with K+N , no blowoff booooshhhh but no hot air either.

Cheers

( KISS )

Ken

PS Thats not actually a kiss mike , it's stands for keep it simple stupid.

PPS I didn't mean to say your stupid it's just a figure....... ohhh never mind:lol:

Micko Veteran

Micko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Fair call Ken - should've just asked you in the first place:uh-huh:

Can't live without the sound of the pods though - so I'm gonna have to do something about it:p

Thanks,

Mike.

BTW - I didn't literally mean slouch - still goes very well methinks:D

Just another satisfied customer at the end of the day;)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, this what I did to make a master for my first CAI. I bought one from www.uniqueautosports.com.au. cost $95. I used it to make a carboard master and then sold it (looking brand new) for $80. Best $15 I ever spent.

Micko Veteran

Micko

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Originally posted by turbomad

OK this is not a GTR but the principle is the same, built it from aluminium, powder coated it and also use a bit of 90mm PVC pipe to feed some cold air in from the lower bumper.

Nice job!

I was thinking of taking the air in near the bonnet like the factory airbox though - that way I don't need to poke any extra holes.

uLa32 Proficient

uLa32

Posted
Posted

i used to have one but i got a pair of Z32's and different sized pods so the one i have now is good for paperweight. when i finally get my piping sorted, i'll try again. meggala sez you can get some stuff from clarke rubber. i had a look at that stuff and its quite ok... so durable flexible stuff with an aluminium side... other than that, i may just use some left over aluminium i got and make another from that... other stuff i was considering is maybe modify the std airbox so it looks stock.... etc..

uLa32 Proficient

uLa32

Posted
Posted

damn its hard! at the end of it all, it just got too messy... sure it was partitioned off but it looked unfinished... it looks like you sandwiched the partition with the adapter and the afm? what size is it turbomad? looks nice and neat!

turbomad Community Regular

turbomad

Posted
Posted

Yes the AFM is held to the partition by the adapter, the length is basically the entire distance from the strut tower to the front of the car and the width was determined by where the AFM ended off the intake pipe/rubber hose thing.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

hey mike,

I got a meter of that heat sheild foam from clark rubber, it would be easy to cut to fit the area and you could then use it as a template for a metal one after. In the mean time it would do the job very well indeed. about $23 a meter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Intro/R33 owner

      By PranK · Posted

      Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • MBS206
      Intro/R33 owner

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Yeetus
      Another "where do these lines and plugs go" RB25DET question

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...