Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning all,

I am currently up to the stage of modding were i need/want more boost. i have a turbo back zorst, pod, Greddy FMIC and BOV.

Ive checked out the Power FC's and they look like a tidy unit capable of almost anything. Would i be better just buying an APEXi boost controller for $600 rather than the Power FC for $1000?? would it be worth the extra $$'s for the added features that it offers?

Im not wanting to turn this into a full blown drag car, but i will probly mod further into next year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Absolutely dude... buying a boost controller limits you to what you can do. Yeah sure you'll have boost on tap but you can't play around with the vital things which a Power FC will allow you to do.

Save your penny's and get the FC. They are a plug and play unit and have 101 benefits over a run of the mill boost contoller.

Especially if you are looking to mod further, because the FC will allow you to change things like your and air/fuel ratios etc vital when putting more fast bits on your car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1820269
Share on other sites

The AVC-R wont give you anything near what the PowerFC will.

Just buy the boost controller add-on for the PFC, only a few hundred more.

I thought that i would be able to dial up the boost from in the car with just the Power FC. Im assuming that the Apexi AVC-R boost controller allows this option on its own but nothing else. I'll check out some prices on the add-on. I was hoping to have it all for around the $1100 mark roughly.

If i was to do no more mods to the car after this would the PFC stil be the better way to go? Would the extras stil be a benefit to me?

Edited by GTS4dood
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1820486
Share on other sites

The PowerFC is an ECU

not a boost controller. You need to purchase the Boost Contol solenoid etc in additoon to the PowerFC to make the PowerFC able to control boost

this is covered in the sticky thread in this section if im not mistaken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1820590
Share on other sites

Don't bother with the Apexi boost soleniod kit, the factory one works fine. Just buy a power FC and get someone who knows what they are doing to tune it. Put the few hundred you'll save into dyno time.

Regards

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1825779
Share on other sites

BBGTR, The RB20DET's run a basic wastegate setup, so an boost controller of some time is required.

Buy the PFC then redrill the holes on the wastegate bracket so that it becomes adjustable. :) Not so much redrill but elong. If you have the cash go the pfc boost controller from nengun.

They are fairly cheap considering its a self learning boost controller. Unlike the Archaic adjust a duty cycle and gain type ebc. The self learning ebc's constantly adjust duty cycle to obtain the target boost pressure.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1825942
Share on other sites

I've always wondered why they GTR's need to run an elec bleed system when they don't have a 2 stage boost like the R33's do.

Whats the 32 GTR's base boost pressure if you were to bypass the solanoid and run it straight off the actuator?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1826292
Share on other sites

I'd just be buying an adjustable actuator and set the preload so you can run 13psi or so. Shouldn't cost more than 250. The r32 dosen't have the aggresive rich and retard strategy that the 33 has so you will make some decent gains from this.

Then save and get the power fc if you want to go further in the future.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1826326
Share on other sites

I've always wondered why they GTR's need to run an elec bleed system when they don't have a 2 stage boost like the R33's do.

Whats the 32 GTR's base boost pressure if you were to bypass the solanoid and run it straight off the actuator?

About 7-8 PSI I think - like most factory springs.

Regards

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1826347
Share on other sites

I'd just be buying an adjustable actuator and set the preload so you can run 13psi or so. Shouldn't cost more than 250. The r32 dosen't have the aggresive rich and retard strategy that the 33 has so you will make some decent gains from this.

Then save and get the power fc if you want to go further in the future.

Ideally i want to be able to dial up the boost from inside the car. If i was to buy an adjustable boost controller and then later add the PowerFC, i wouldnt be able to use the hand controller for it?? unless is was the apexi boost solenoid that i put on initially??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827502
Share on other sites

Being able to adjust boost on the fly is a novelty.

The RB20DET isn't exactly a boost monster where a slight flick of the accelerator instantly see's all its boost.

Even with the rb30det and a small motor its easy to regulate the amount of boost I make.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827510
Share on other sites

after 3 days and the novelty of being able to change your boost wares off.. i doubt your gonna be playing with it much :P

Ideally i want to be able to dial up the boost from inside the car. If i was to buy an adjustable boost controller and then later add the PowerFC, i wouldnt be able to use the hand controller for it?? unless is was the apexi boost solenoid that i put on initially??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827524
Share on other sites

I think you're getting confused.

A boost controller is seperate from a ECU. The pfc is a stand alone aftermarket ECU.. which happens to be able to plug into a hand controller.

A boost controller will just change your boost..

So.. it depends what you want to do - retune the car or up the boost.

The PFC -can- control a boost controller solenoid, so in this sense it can work like a boost controller... but they are really 2 different things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1827559
Share on other sites

an adjustable boost controller is only good for a factory ecu, if you want high power or low power..

but I'd run high all the time and get a powerfc and tune it to it, ebcause if you tune any ECU to a certian boost, and you lower the boost for a "low mode" you'll f**k all of your tune up cause its tuned for higher boost..

Easiest way to do it, is get the powerfc boost control kit to control spikes, spool, etc etc and level your boost, and then use your foot to control boost...

Less throttle means less boost..... If you can't do that, then you're a danger on the road and you should sell your car and buy a push bike..........

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99916-apexi-power-fc/#findComment-1828401
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...