Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst - Couple Of Issues

Space Ninja

By Space Ninja,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Space Ninja Enthusiast

Space Ninja

Posted
Posted

Hey everybody,

I'm new here, signed up a week ago - I've bought myself a GTS-T R33 Skyline and I've been loving every minute behind the wheel, but in the last couple of days I've had some strange stuff happen and I'm wondering if anybody has any reccomendations.

Last night I went out to go pick up a friend and get some food - I went out front and found my car had a flat battery, I got a jump off another friend and everything was great, drove the 20-30 mins over to the mates house and I stupidly figured that would be enough time to get a bit of a charge in the battery.

Went inside for 10-20 mins, came back out and the car was flat again, completely flat, no indicators/hazzards, zero.

I got another jumpstart off another friend and I was going to drive the car home, when I noticed a couple of issues. The car took unusually long to get a jump (3-4 tries, dunno if thats normal) but my indicators were stuck on (couldn't use them at all) all my electrics had reset, stereo, clock etc.

I got the car back home but then the car would not stop, I literally turned the car off as normal and removed the keys from the ignition but the car kept running - a sort of small buzzing sound was coming from the dash - the only way I could stop the car was in a fairly dodgy way (basically had to stall it, its an automatic too)

I haven't started it since but I figure so far I need a new battery and possibly something else - anybody got any ideas or a place I can take it to, to get it checked out? I love this car but I really don't want strange stuff like this happening so soon after I've got it.

Thanks in advance

Phil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99961-r33-gtst-couple-of-issues/
Share on other sites
recce Collaborator

recce

Posted
Posted

Did you check if that is your turbo timer? It did happened to me once. The car will not stop and will start by itself. I have to change a new turbo timer and it was sweet after that. Some turbo timer from japan has funny function which we do not know of. Check that out.

doof Enthusiast

doof

Posted
Posted
Ive heard that your not meant to jump start Skylines because it fries the electronics? Anyone else heard this?

Thats why u always turn your head lights on when jump starting so if any shorting goes it wont be damaging your ecu it acts as a decoy and blows your lights..id rather buy new lights than a ecu ... :P

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted
Thats why u always turn your head lights on when jump starting so if any shorting goes it wont be damaging your ecu it acts as a decoy.

Hmmm..... Smart Electricity in Japaneese cars???????? What will they think of next.

Read your manual, you can jump start a skyline.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
Hmmm..... Smart Electricity in Japaneese cars???????? What will they think of next.

Read your manual, you can jump start a skyline.

my manual is in japanese, so i cant exactly read it...

but its an interesting question, do you just jump start them like any other car, or do you have to have the headlights on as mentioned above?

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted (edited)

if u look under ur bonnet at the fuse box it has jump lead tags hanging out of it i think they are protected by fuse. u dont jump start straight from the battery or things may go boom :)

Edited by Pal
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

NEVER disconnect your battery while car is running, as there is a good chance that the alternator will fry itself.

Replace the battery, very common for Skylines to require new batteries after purchase.

As the battery went flat, this may have reset a hidden turbo timer. Have a good look under the dash, doesn't hurt to contact the previous owner to ask if there is a timer.

rb25 Grand Master

rb25

Posted
Posted

When i first got my 33 i had to replace the battery after two weeks. Then out of the blue the car wouldnt turn off (happend randomly) and there was a beeping noise under the dash, I pulled the fuse cover off and there was a turbo timer jammed right up under the dash. Have a good look under there, you might be surprised!

-rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...