Jump to content
SAU Community

Dual Afm On Singelturbo Rb25det


h2k
 Share

Recommended Posts

Has anyone tried 2 afm on 1 circuit?

If 1 measures 2500mv,(random value) then 2 in series should measure 1250mv each? Would this be the general consensus?

Then adjust the afm percentage up to 200% so the ecu still see's its correct intake of air volume.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's very simple actually. The structure of the typical Nissan AFM is not designed to take internal pressure. They are also not intended to run at high temperatures (although they do run win a hot engine bay, the air flowing through them is supposed to be cooler - from outside the engine bay).

They will take a certain amount of internal pressure. How much is an pen question.

They will take a certain amount of extra temperature. Same as above.

The sensing elements in a hotwire AFM are 1) the temperature sensor to measure the T of the incoming air before it goes over the hot wire and 2) the hot wire itself. The AFM needs to know the T of the incoming air so that it can correct the mass flow calculated from the electrical current needed to keep the wire at a fixed temperature. Colder air coming in cools the wire more at the same mass flow rate. Hotter air cools the wire less, resulting in less current needed. These things should have a wide enough range to cope with boosted air, but I would definitely prefer to run it post intercooler. There's no need to make it suffer by hitting it with >100°C air from the turbo.

I think the main problem is the amount of oil that gets on the elements when you put them on the pressure side of the turbo. We get enough trouble with that sort of stuff in the clean inlet side, let alone with turbo seal oil and recirc crankcase gases getting onto them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nick in answer to your questions they take so called hot air fine that is why you see them mostly installed on the cold side of the cooler my standard one holds 20psi no problem and has for some time now.

My afr's are fine surprisingly they were fine when I did this mod and had the stock ecu in there as I needed to drive it from my place to the shed next door to put it on the dyno before I could play with tuning.

If there is a n issue with boost use the ford ranger unit that can be put into any size pipe hot air and air density is kind of irrelevant unless you are running the standard ecu if you are tunning your fuel and ignition maps the shitty out-dated afm system is just a voltage signal giving you a reference/load input point of when it puts x fuel in in correlation to rpm ect

I am no pioneer with this set up it has been done for years nizpro to my knowledge were the first really to do this and it is a fairly standard mod for them I am sure a heap of other shops do it also,

NB they warrant there work you have to fix shit yourself so im sure its fairly well tested.

2nd NB if you are a full hectik kebab eating mofo you can even use an external bov with this lol even better a solid steel intake pipe to get mad dose hahaha sorry just taking piss now :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've done it wrong. I don't have time right now to type up enough. I'll have to come back to it or maybe someone else will in the meantime.
    • I was able to complete installation of the G4X ecu. I needed to reroute MAP vacuum signal from stock location to where BOV is connected on the intake plenum. Has anyone needed to do the same? When I connect vac port by the BOV flange to my HKS BOV, it doesnt work and I get flutter. I would to get BOV working, where would it be best to T in? Or would it best for me to move MAP vac line and T into FPR? Secondly, I installed a MAC 3 port boost solenoid and wanted to know if i routed it correctly. I place two lines from stock boost solenoid and placed it on ports 1 and 2, leaving 3 vented. The T for wastegate and boost source on compressor elbow is on port 2, and port 1 is connected to turbo inlet intake pipe. Please see attached pictures. Ill upload ecu config later today. Thanks in advance.
    • some people are still around weirdly enough - most people just use facebook now to ask the same 12 questions tho XD  
    • Omg Rezz! Yep we're still here and actually seeing a trickle of oldies coming back.  How's things? 
    • So I raised the car up a fair bit for shipping - see image - then lowered it again when it arrived. I then rushed to get an alignment in NL before the track and the shop just wasn’t anywhere near as precise as what I got in Japan. The guys that did the alignment this week said there was a fair amount of toe in the rear that could have contributed to the understeer. It was also the case that the rear camber went from about -2 to -3 at the shop in NL. However, since I’ve now got slightly wider tires in the rear - NS2Rs run wider than Accelera 651S - I could only get a minimum of -3 in the rear now due to clearance. Front is now -2.75 (-2.45 in minutes) due to being raised a bit (previously -3 in JP). So it’s likely a combination of the two factors, camber and toe. The issue now is I have more camber in the rear than the front and the next step on the front Cusco arms will put me at -3.5ish front which seems a bit excessive to me. The weird thing is I’ve never had any understeer at the track in Japan but they are very different circuits - Japanese circuits are much slower than the one I’ve been to here.    I’m probably going to have to start another thread for the E90. The plan is sort of to keep it as a daily but progressively mod it into a track car - honestly, you need a cage for the sort of speeds you go here. Just ordered the M3 front arms btw.  Love the car despite it being in pretty shitty condition. Oil analysis came back okay and it seems to have stopped consuming oil since fixing a load of engine bay things. Saw yours is a 335i right? f**king mistake on my part getting the DI N53 over the N52, fuel economy is insanely good though at 14-16 km/L.   Cheers, it’s great to see the benefits and pitfalls of different places. I’m contemplating going back to the U.K. around next year as the cost of living in the Netherlands is just ridiculous. GF is nagging me to settle and buy a house but I don’t know what LSD to buy. 
×
×
  • Create New...