GT-R32

I was only kidding. I have (had until the turbo blew) circa that power in my car also. It felt about right for the car.

Correct Mat, there are many different ways you can build an engine. On the extreme other end, some blokes send their motors or have their motors built in Japan. That's what they want to do. But there were two different things being discussed. One was the block and head only, the other was that and including everything else required for 400kW. If you go with the latter, I would suggest that up toward $20k is far from unreasonable. And of course, plenty of people have spent $20k on a block only using some particularly expensive bits. Point is, that is beyond being economical for that level of power and associated durability - other requirements are being satisfied.

Second hand GT35R kit on this forum (comes with PFC), fuel system, make sure you have a full exhaust (decat to make it cheap), turn up the boost and wait until the engine lets go.

So in Canberra there is: ESP Trojan Autotech Ultimate Tunes J Racing Anywhere else? It would be good to compare the hourly rates of each place also. I need a pair of turbos (probably -5s), them to be fitted and the car tuned.

I've got the push type also. These is the issues I have: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Or...-P-t284772.html They sound very similar to yours. Only way I can work it all out is pulling the box out again, putting what I know to be the right bearing/carrier in and hoping they didn't f**k the clutch plates. From what I can find on here you need the 30501-N1604 bearing sleeve, and 30502-14601 throwout bearing. That is the 14mm. My ORC manual says you need a 14-16mm for the 709D.

I couldn't justify it full stop. My car is only worth $20k on a good day. Paul summed it up with experience not hype to back it up. I also remember reading an earlier post of his saying Stacey raced something like 4 seasons on something like a $5k block (excluding labour?) making that sort of power above. Please correct my memory Paul. I just hope sending a block up from Canberra isn't too expensive.

$20k for a block for 400kW is well past the laws of diminishing returns when people have seen mid-300s on stock blocks.

That's certainly an expensive few kW. Pay to play I guess!

So a $10k build won't be able to see over 400rwkw? I need that sort of power in my daily driven GTR. You know, to overtake and stuff.

The laws of diminishing returns apply and soon you'll be forking out $20k for a block LOL.

Still a decent result I reckon. My car only made just under 270awkw in the hands of the previous owner also. But with HKS EVC and of course the 2530s and more boost. There's debate about how much power GTRs lose when comparing all wheel and rear wheel power but I'm sure it makes some difference. My car had stock front pipe, cat and dumps at that time also. I'm sure it's great to drive now.

Mate let me tell you my eyes fell out of my head. It cost me $972 all up. I was told it was a massive job and quoted $780, part of the reason I didn't attempt it myself. By far the greatest rip off I have ever come across having owned 30 performance cars over the past 8 or 9 years. The issue is that I supplied the clutch, which was brand new from Japan. They have therefore blamed the thing they did not supply and charged me like a wounded bull. I am now in a difficult position. Do I take it elsewhere and have the box removed to see what they have or haven't done? And then put the potentially f**ked clutch back in or pay another $2+k for another one? Either way it costs me big dollars. LOL, I should scan the offending invoice for a laugh!

Yeah it seems like there is only mm in it. I can also hear the throw out whining just a tiny bit as you press the clutch, then it slow down after a long time and you can engage the gear easier - but sometimes it just seems to never stop. Given the ducking and diving, complaining and digging for excuses before I even knew what was up that the Toyota apprentice who installed it did when I arrived the first time to pick it up, I would not at all be surprised. Let alone the lack of things done and the condition other parts of the car were in (stereo, interior trim, black marks on the mats, fluid not bled) and the 40mins waiting I did each time I went to pick it up. All for a brilliant price of only $159/hour. Unfortunately (for them) a lot of people on here go to and recommend the same place. I will give the owner 8/10 for his sales ability and his talking skills, giving the aura of professionalism and charging accordingly that's for sure! Shame there is f**k all to back it up by way of service.

Haha.

Well that's great to hear. I played with adjustment on the weekend and the fork is going as far as it can from the pedal from what we can see, 45mm is it. I bled the clutch on the weekend and it made a big difference. They didn't even do that. Pretty great service for $159/hour. I get the feeling the workshop didn't remove the clutch the second time at all. Either way my car has a blown turbo so that needs to be fixed too.

Always a good source of info you are! So is it not possible to simply fit R34 manifolds (in this case N1 which is slightly different) and dumps to a R32?

Thanks mate all good. Also talking about the manifolds. Basically I'm fitting a set of -5s (currently 2530s). But I want to know if R34 (N1) manifolds and the dump pipes will all fit up to what I have now in my car.

Well it seems like a good idea to replace then. Just wondering if it's all compatible? Just 'cause I read that some dumps were model specific!

Yeah I feel you. I paid a workshop $972 to have a clutch fitted and it's not working correctly (not disengaging - it's 'sticking'), but they can't tell me which carrier they used other than it being the 'normal GTR one' - which is 18mm not the 14mm required. I'm not sure whether this would cause this though.

I am considering buying some new bits and pieces as my car needs new turbos. One of the HKS2530s have had it. It's an R32 GTR. I'll be buying -5s. I was also considering buying some R34 dumps as they are better than the R32s I believe, but perhaps also some R34 (N1) manifolds also, to freshen it all up at the very least as the current stuff is 20 years old. I noticed Blitz had Tomei dumps for sale, but they are R32/33 specific... Do the R34 manifolds and dump pipes differ at all to the R32 stuff?

Are the manifolds different to stock ones?

Thanks for the info. Potentially a bit big for even a built street 2.6L then. So I would have to be sure I would increase capacity.

What are -10s like on a (stock for now) RB26? Is it worth getting them in anticipation of more later (built 26 or if I'm feeling rich a 2.8L) or should I simply go with -5s?

Good luck with it this weekend. My favourite drag oriented GTR and one of my favourite all time. Great car.

CRD have them for about $2490 I think. That's similar to what I paid 3 years ago for my other GTR. I'll be watching this thread as I need a pair of turbos also.