MANWHORE

yeah, seriously, it's the weight of the wheels. the gtst wheels with tyres weight approximately 18-20kg give or take depending on what tyre. I wouldn't be suprised if your 19 " wheels weighed 30-40kg. Keep in mind that wheel weight is worse than static weight. It is rotational mass. so that extra 40-80 kg overall could be the equivalent of having about 120-240 kg extra weight in your car

no

I sent them back to him cod. If he doesn't get it, it's gonna come back to me and i'm going to have to pay for it. Anyone got his number? call him maybe?

Oh ok, I never knew abobut the other nipple. Looks like we might have to give it a go bleeding it properly using the other nipple too, and the relay. Hey Nismo 400, where is this relay that you're talking about? Do you reckon you could outline a bleeding procedure for us?

Was tehre any reason why you soldered inside the ecu? couldn't you have just soldered the consult plug to the loom?

I use 32. No need to go so high.

sold

for $70, i'm in. That is, if they're perfect quality. Perfect replacement for standard etc. No wonky stuff or stuff that'll break on the track etc

The thing is this. Once you decide to go for the house, THAT's IT. You're locked in for 20 years or however long it takes you to repay the house. In that period, you'll be poor. One of my friends took this road, whereas I decided to put the house off for a few more years. It's not like you're never going to be putting off the house. I just reckon, put it off for a FEW MORE YEARS. Tha'ts all. At the moment, you're free. If you want to splurge some money on something, it's cool. But if you have a house to repay, you'll be like oh no, I can't go on that holiday, because I need to repay the loan off. 23 is really young. I'm only going to finish uni at 23. That's as if you finish uni and buy a house straight away. From a financial point of view - like if you want to make more money quicker, yes, buying your house now is better. But,y ou'll be locked into a boring life. Once your house is repayed and you have liquid cash, you'll be quite a bit older. Why deprive yourself of fun now, when you're young. Do you want to wait until you're old, like those old people driving around porsches?

I agree with t04 about the bosch pumps. I have my reasons. I reckon the best ones for up to 265 rwkw are the gtr pumps. The hat is the anti drainback valve.

I honestly don't see any problem with the jjr product. They're much of a muchness really. Just jap seem to be fairly decent people. Unlike someone like carmate, if you have a problem, they probably will be willing to sort it out?

lazy bastard, you are not alone there. Like you I had similar issues. Not to mention that the first pipe didn't bolt striaght up. It had a wrong bend in it, and when bolted onto the turbo, it hit the bottom of the car floor. I had to get it exchanged

Because nissan don't make oil. Whenever a car manufacturer releases a car, they have requirements and specifications for each type of oil that is needed in different parts of the car. Nismatic D is a special form of hydraulic fluid. If you go to the castrol website and look up the r ugly poo gtr, it says to use transmax z where nissan specifies nismatic d. It's just like why not use nissan's 7.5w30 mineral oil that they sell? That's the oil that they recommend for the skylines. As long as something meets the spec, it's the same if not better.

Hey guys I've put this post here, because I'm not looking to buy one. Also, i need this urgently and from someone local so I can pick it up. Has anyone here in sydney installed a dump or new turbo and not bothered about putting the heatshield back on? There must be heaps of these out there, because hardly anyone bothers about putting the heatsheild back on I need the bracket that goes on the 3 dump bolts. If you've got one, can you please pm me? Cheers Chris

The gtst is easy as to do the turbo. If you have decent mechanical ability, I reckon you can get the turbo out in less than 2 hours if it's your first time gtr on the other hand....

Honestly, with gaskets, go genuine nissan. If you don't, you'll be banging your head against a brick wall thinking why did I save those few bucks. Many $$ later, or many skinned knuckles later, you will have done the job twice when it should have been done right the first time. Those aftermarket gaskets are shit. They're thin foil with some goo sandwitched between. They can be blown out and don't last. the genuine nissan gaskets are a solid metal like copper or something.

the hydraulic fluid in your boot reservoir is meant to be that colour. It is a dark green. It isn't stadnard dexron III. It is castrol transmaz Z which comes dark green from the bottle. It is a synthetic hydraulic fluid with different properties to dexron III

After researching long and hard, I worked out that the fluid to use is Castrol transmax Z. It's pretty expensive shit. About $18 a litre. You wouldn't believe it, but I've done it already. That is, unless if the procedure that you're thinking about using to bleed is different to what I did? Basically, following instructions from many people that have bleed their gtrs attessa system, they reckon that the boot bottle is just gravity bled. All I did, was keep the cylinder topped up, and crack the nipple, and kept topping it up. I never let the fluid level go below half. Unless we've missed another nipple to actually 'bleed' the system, because as far as i'm aware, the one on the rack is the only one. edit: forgot to mention, that I did this literally about 1 month ago. IMO, it didn't really do anything. The old fluid was of a very similar colour. You know how after like 10 years, powersteering fluid goes black? the fluid in my system was nothing like that at all. It was basiaclly brand new. Just like the stuff in the bottle.

Mobile Phone is sold. I'm just about to add more stuff for sale.

ps: the reason why I said take it above apart was not to 'see' how it works as such. I know how it works theoretically. but maybe, by taking it apart, there may be a way to remove the hydraulic fluid actuator system, such that the locking is controlled just like a normal mech diff edit oops: I should have read above. That's what our good friend in mildura is doing. I'll watch very keenly

Oh, mine works man. I'm just looking for more performance out of it. Are you in sydney? if you want, I can take you for a burn in it (not this week - turbo is out atm). But once the turbo is done. if I get up onto one one wheel when going up a driveway, and persist, it goes chirp chirp chirp and goes forward. I have changed the diff oil and also done the hydraulic bottle in the boot. I'm just looking to get it more lock happy. At the end of the day, it is a mechanical diff. I don't see any point in taking out one mech diff when you already have a mech diff. i'll stay tuned to see your results. you in sydney? if so, i'm happy to give you a hand, and see what results you get

hahaha, reminds me of this teacher we used to have at school. he was this old guy,a nd we used to keep calling bobby. haha

Guys, i've done this about a million times. If you get stuck, feel free to pm me, or call me. Basically, pop the ash tray out, undo the screw underneath, pop off the shifter surround, undo the screws on the dash face. there are a couple where your knees are too, pop that off, undo all the wiring plugs then undo the cluster surrond, about 4 screws. then the cluster is held in by about 3 screws from memory. undo the plug at the back,a nd bob's your uncle.

rotate the box to clear the starter motor? Have you undone the front pipe bracket yet?

oh ok, well, you know what would be awesome. You know how there are attessa controllers? It would be really good if we could make the diff much more ready to lock. maybe an attessa controller might even work for this application