MANWHORE

Hey guys I'll be coming to canberra on thursday and I'm looking to get some crackers and stuff like that. Can some of your guys that know where to get them from please pm me? Or if any of you guys sell them or know anyone who does, pm me your number or their number cheers Chris

yeah,, you always ahve to trim the bar. there's not much room behind there

Cheers vidospace Makes me feel much better. My parents don't let me park my car in their garage, so i'm hiring a garage from a little old granny. Like you, it is only have a single garage. It is actually a townhouse garage so this thing is narrow as. It's pretty difficult to work on the car in there, but hey, it keeps the car clean, and it beats working on the car outside iwth all the mozzies etc.

When I did it, nissan didn't sell the r32 ball joints by themselves. Yeh, through nissan or just jap. Tehy get it from nissan anyways. I think justcrap was a bit cheaper. There was a clunking noise and the steering was dangerous, like when turning, it would go a bit silly.

size of wheels?

you sure will. The cluster takes 5 bulbs from memory.

oh, you're joking. Bad luck mate.

I don't really trust aussie made bearings. A whole new lower control arm can be had for about $200 new. brand new arm. new ball joint. new boot. I drive my cars hard, and i want them to be reliable.

evil, your alignment guy was pulling your middle leg. There is no camber adjustment stock on the front of skylines. That number is most likely -. If it's plus, there's something seriously wrong with your car. The front camber kit will allow you to run more neg camber for the track, as well as it will allow you to dial out neg camber from lowering the car for the street for tyre life

Or find some small kid on the street and pay him $2 to do it. Serious Nah, in all seriousness, if you've got big hands you won't be able to do it without taking stuff out. I can only just do it with a lot of trouble. You really have to squeeze your hand in there. You'll be turning the white plug with like no grip at all. Lots of swearing later, you'll get it out.

There are so many ways a fuel pump can 'go'. E.g. one day, you might be at wot, 7000rpm, full boost, and your pump just literally dies right there and then. Then you lean your motor out. Another way the pump can go is it can flow less over time. you know, things just get old and don't work as well. If this happens, then you might be running leanish whenever you hit it, but not ultra ultra lean.

How about you just get a manwhore sticker instead?

Oh, I wasn't offering to have a instally barby at mine, I was just saying, someone organise one. lol.

Why is it necessary to post things up in many different threads. It's just stupid mate. I actually replied to you in your other thread, but I feel like deleting my reply now. Anyways, I do research experimentation on optics and lighting circuitry, so if you need advice, pm me.

Topaz, I hate it when that happens. My cheaparse compliance mob (who charged me 5k for compliance) replaced my charcoal can with this big mofo one, and it's mounted right where the dipstick is. you'd think that paying them 5k, they wouldn't skimp on a fricken nissan catchcan. Yes, I will name and shame you compliance mob. just watch.

I'm located in sydney on the north shore. Did I hear white dial/bezza install barby WITH hot chicks? yuuummm foood. yuuum chicks.

Um, I don't own a retrofitting business. I wouldn't do it for money. So please don't go all defensive. I do it on my own cars as a hobby. My dad's an electrical engineer and we work with optics and lighting circuits. We also do this stuff for research purposes (self interest learning). I'm just helping out other sau members answering their questions, and sharing some of my knowledge. I'm not going to say anymore after this post, so you don't need to reply. I'm not hindering your sale, just sharing knowledge and replying to your reply. PS: When you say don't compare it with cheap asian products I have never tried. How can you be so sure about that? Are you trying to say ge xenon isn't made in Asia? I have over 20 different brands of hid kit ballasts sitting on my bench. After opening them all, many of them share the same internals. Many of them even share the same cases just with a different label. your case is identical to about 15 of them. Hid is hardly advanced technology. The ballasts just power the bulb. ok, lets assume your ballast is good, I have no problems with that. All of the ones on my bench all work as they should. What makes your bulbs special compared to all the other bulbs of all the other brands? The light output will be the same.

Someone orgyanise a group buy. I'm in!

Is your car very low? if so, neg camber is causing the inside wear. It could also be excessive toe out. Get a wheel alignment. Spacers won't fix anything. In answer to your question, no 245/265 is not too big. With the right alignment, they'll wear well

Relax. Is the bulb a h1 bulb? if so, it's probably grounded trhough the housing. The grounding might have been disconnected by the melted 'washer'. Either that, or the extra heat has melted the wires, which has caused a short. IF so, be worried. Where are you?

It's fine to run low boost. You must have pretty crap tyres to wheel spin it with only 10 psi on stock turbo. Control wheelspin with your foot, and save up for some new DECENT tyres.

yeah, just unbolt and bolt usually. unless if someone's cut the flange off your afm

PS: I have demonstration units to show what I mean. I have an r32 reflector, r32 projector, r33 reflector set up with a kit just to show the crap output. I also have a oem lexus gs300 reflector to show how good the light can be from reflector. Very nice cutoff (not as good as projector, but still very good, and good light output). I also have an oem projector setup to show the hid projector light output Also, just to worn people about this product (I'm not breaking forum rules, just trying to make sure people don't have an engine bay fire). The kit is not relayed. While hid normally runs 35 watts once started, it draws huge power when it's starting. All of the extra load on the stock power system will blow the fuse. As part of these kits, they always ask you to install an uprated fuse (20 watt fuse when the stock one is 10). If you want to run the risk of an engine bay fire, and shorten the life of your headlight switch, then do it. When I do retrofits (i.e. install oem projectors into other cars, I use a large relay from the battery with large guage wire to handle the power. PS: As per the forum rules, you're running this group buy for the benefit of your self. hell, your name is even ge xenon - same as the product you're selling.

GE Xenon, I will help to clarify up some of the issues raised in this thread for you. A halogen projector or reflector will not work well with a xenon bulb. I will begin with a halogen reflector. A xenon bulb has a differently placed focal point, as well as the shape of the light source is different. The halogen reflector is designed to focus a halogen light source. Light output will be poor on the road. Furthermore, because the reflector was not designed for the xenon bulb, a lot of the light will be shining upwards. Thus, you have poor light on the road, and lots of light up (glare). You'll also have mega hot spots. If someone driving towards you falls into the hotspot, they'll get massive glare, as opposed to a properly designed housing (oem hid) where the light is even in the light spread. A halogen projector is designed to focus a halogen light source. The cutoff will remain the same because it has an internal cutoff shield. However, the problem is, that light is still going all over the place, it's just being blocked by the cutoff shield. Light output on the road will still be poor like the halogen reflector. You'll still have mega hot spots. YES there is oem reflector hid. The thing is, just because there is oem hid reflector, that deosnt' mean it's the same thing as putting a 'hid kit' into a halogen reflector. Optics have to be very very very very precise. Even moving the light source 1 mm will haev a huge effect. A hid reflector is physically designed differently, because of the different shape of the hid light source. I'll give you an anolgy. Think of your light source as a laser pointer. Shine it onto a hand mirror. If you move the laser pointer ever so slightly, it'll move the beam by ALOT even at a distance of about 5 mitres. Imagine over a distance of 75-100m, the light could move 10 mitres upwards. Picture your headlight as being millions of laserbeams shining in all directinos and imagine the mess caused by incorrect optics. PS: I have written numerous threads on this guys. If you search for them, I have provided links with pics to demonstrate my point. for starters, google daniel stern lighting. That's the best lighting 101 you can read. Guys, I am not explaining anything new. Physics is physics. Just because there has been an influx of cheap kits from asia doesn't mean that the laws of physics are bent.

NO!!! That's wrong. Do not pop the clips out like that. You'll either break the clips, buckle the boot lid, snap the spoiler, or bend your boot lock. The correct procedure, is you actually push the spoiler down onto the boot and shift the spoiler (I think it's towards the rear of the car). The clips will move into the larger section of the hole once the spoiler has shifted and you'll be able to lift it up. You'll have to undo the bolts first of course.