MANWHORE

I beg to differ. People are always complaining about the shit fit of those kits, piping not lining up and needing mods. 345 can't go wrong? You get what you pay for In answer to your question, you can either get it installed properly, or go to supercheap auto and buy a small sized washer bottle and have that fitted.

20s on a volvo would just look gay. somehing sensible like 17-18 is good

It's amazing how many placebo feelers there are. Some of you guys have siad it makes the motor run smoother, idles better, turbo spools faster, etc. Does it make your radio run smoother too? does it make your seat more comfortable? Honestly, any difference in feel would be hardly able to be felt. It'd be interesting to see if the oil was changed wihtout them knowing what oil is actually in there to see if htey can feel it.

Waz, how tight did you do it? Like just reasonable? Or crazy tight? What did you use to tighten it? a spanner? or a breaker bar? I've found, after a while, you get the hang of how tight certain things should be. If you use a spanner, you can actually tighten it to within the torque spec. It's hard to describe, but you get the hang of it after you do it many times.

What I said above was explained to me from someone who used to work for trd in japan. If it's not correct, i've removed it. Cheers

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Your mecahnic would be semi correct. The problem with the AU falcons, is the gearbox overheats even under normal driving. If you do an oil change on most autos, usually, the oil will be a dark brown even after quite a few ks. On the AU falcons, the box oil is always pitch black. Just because the oil is black doesn't mean that it's bad for a tow car. I mean honestly, how often do you plan on towing the car? They are a very powerful, torquey tow car (not as much as a diesel), but for a petrol sedan, that's about as good as you can get. I use it to tow my boat, probably every weekend during summer. It goes fine. If you're worried, add a tranny cooler

It's not really worth shimming though. diff places will charge you $150 minimum to r n r the diff. Shim is about $20-40. So that's $200 approximately. The stock ones are usually pretty tired, and shimming it will make it die quicker. Just save the money for a mech centre

If you snap that bolt using a spanner, you must be a muscle man. Just use a spanner of the correct size - 13mm from memroy, do it tight with the spanner, and you'll be right. Just be sensible. Like do it tight with the 13 mm, not f**k off tight. You'll have a problem overtorquing if say you used a breaker bar or something, but generally, you'll be fine. The tps bolts are different - they're a small bolt.

doesn't matter. Just use a spanner and do it up spanner tight. They don't have to be that tight

That is actually pretty ridiculous on behalf of the construction guys. When they say 'construction zone', all that means, is a couple of builder bogans have bunged a few cones out on the road. Means nothing at all. Personally, I wouldn't park there because it's asking for trouble, but legally speaking, I don't see any problem parking there? Moving someone's car with a forklift damges it(bending chassis rails, sills etc). I would most certainly be bringing criminal proceedings against the person who did it, as well as civil proceedings against the company, the person, the site manager for recovery of the amount.

driver's door being punched in is really really slack. IMO, the centre caps on either the r32 or r33 rims won't fall off. They're clipped in very firmly. I've driven fast for long periods of time, drive on bumpy roads, and i've never had that happen. It's sorta a bit different to hubcaps, which do fall off I think?

Sorry, can't help you with that, but if you check on the nengun website, have you seen the nismo adjustible one? If you're planing on getting more power later on, i would seirously consider spending the 120 or so, and upgrade to the nismo adjustible.

It's actually 1.8L, well, for my car it is anyways. But I have always subscribed to the theory that changing oil more frequently is more important as opposed to running a more expensive oil. e.g. have you dropped your diff oil after about 10000ks? Depending on how you drive, I always find that my oil is all burnt and gross. My car is not a daily driver though, so I don't drive it normally etc. I have no problem using the lsx90. I'd rather buy lsx90, comes in a big 4L bottle. I change it once a year, so the oil is nice and fresh. That is, opposed to putting in synthetic oil, and leavin git for the time in the manual (like 40 k ks or somethign from memory)

When you say the face plate was not included - you mean the screen itself? If so, I don't think you can just buy any generic screen and just bung it on. You'd probably have to buy the jvc original screen

My questino for you is WHY (no pun or offence intended, just seeking information)? Why use a gearbox oil in an LSD? The LSD should be using LSD oil with friction modifiers (yes I am aware that vlsd haev a separate oil/transfer fluid). Why use a synthetic oil that will essentially be more slippery, when you want it to grip more? Why waste money on something that is not required? Essentially the syntrax is $30 a litre rrp as opposed to about $8 a litre rrp for the lsx90 (trade price is a bit cheaper) PS: In a gearbox, I can see the benefit of using the syntrax synthetic as opposed to the vmx80.

check out justjap - like $140ish from memory.

I wouldn't just go blaming the seller or the pump. If you pull a pump out of most cars, they have this filter on the bottom. It may not seem like the filter does much, but seriously, it does. If you've ever pulled a tank out of a car that has done like 40+k ks, and have a look in the tank, there will be all this shit down the bottom. all that sludge and shit just runs throguh the pump without the filter. Also, with the bosch pumps, because they dot' have a pickup, they are quite high up. Whenever you run them a bit low, it dmaages the pump, because the fuel acts as a lubricant.

bad luck mate. hopefully her insurance will pay for it, and your bad luck will turn into good luck when your car is all repaired and shiny with brand new paint

The dealer is going to be fixing the problems, so it's not like he's accepting it with all the faults walking away and having to fix them himself. I'm not diagnosing the problems without having seen the car. I'm just suggesting POSSIBLE/LIKELY causes/solutions to demonstrate how minor all of the issues really are. e.g. worn strut boots/tyres - worn tyres are just a maintenance item - is there really any other possible way to fix it other than replace it?

Twiddles thumbs and waits patiently..

+1 for factory colour. Matte seriously looks like shit. I've seen whole cars painted in black at those car shows. They think that they've gone out and done something special. They reckon it looks sick. But to me, and everyone else, it'll just look like you used a $2 can of paint at supercheap auto.

honestly, if you don't know what you're doing, I wouldn't even bother attempting it. If you have a look at it from a bit of a logical/mechanical point of view, you can't go wrong. e.g. the front bar will be screwed approximately where the stock bar screws into the car. e.g. you might need to drill some holes for where it screws into the guard. Might need to drill some holes for the clips onto the reo etc etc. For the sideskirts, you'll have to drill holes into the car inside of the wheel arch, and use sikaflex to stick it on too. rear bar - refer to front bar description. similar thing.

It can. I've written some threads about it. please search

Although I wish that your whole car was f**ked for hooning on the street, I don't think anything will have broken. 80ks is nothing. Just a bit of a bump, that's all. What were you thinking? any road with a speed hump probably has a 50 k speed limit.