MANWHORE

Well, I suppose that's another bad thing to add on the list for redline shockproof. I never use that stuff. I either use vmx80 or motul gear 300 and i've never had a problem.

nah, not slip. slip means that you're slipping, like if you do a sik schkid around a corner or spin the wheels, slip comes on.

i drove a truck that didn't have synchros

That just burns my blood. My car came back from compliance with about 1000 ks extra on it. What did they do? a few trackdays? drive to qld and back? I dropped my daily to the local garage to service because I was too lazy with a full tank of fuel, and it came back empty. No respect. Imagine if I got my hands on his car. Rally driving through the bush with the airfilter removed for max induction noise?

bendix ultimates are renowned for squeeling. There can be many causes of squeeling, so you'll have to check all this out. Cause one, oscilation of the shim - bit of anti squeel goo will fix this. cause 2 - Glazed pads - if not broken in properly, or any number of other causes. remedy is chamfeuring the pads. i.e. sand paper off the glaze. cause 3 - missing anti squeel shim behind another thing that seems to work well with the ultimates, is to sand the edges, so it's a bit rounded. Everyone always winges about the ultimates squeeling, but i've managed to make them go alright. hell dusty still though.

does your car have a sunroof? the sunroof makes the roof substantially lower. Cheers

Did someone say Kart dori

Let me put it to you this way. From a legal point of view, what are you trying to achieve? Criminal outcome - what did he do? civil outcome - how much damages are you expecting to get? how much will it cost you for legal representation?

I agree with you busy2k. shockproof is not for synchro gearboxes. Redline say it themselves.

That fluid is called motul gear ff lsd. It is an lsd fluid from memory. Best bet is to get the get the one designed for the gearbox - motul gear 300.

Oh yeah baby, what an erection

Oh no, that sucks. Bad luck. Is that repairable? You might be able to save it.

People say that it's posssible to change the headlights, bonnet and grill. The headlights will be not perfectly lined up with the front bar, but it'll be close. Ideally, you'd want to change the front bar too (which would also require the sII front bar reinforcement), but it is OK wihtout doing it.

whoa, I was wondering whether dosing was a real word. I was like dose? Is it 'does' mispelt? Then I saw that calais turbo thread...... no comment.

Since they're willing to do it for ya, i'd go with that. But i'd honestly reconsider spending the money again next year. RACV - big problems, they can't help. They can only help with stuff like flat batt, no fuel, changing tyres and that's about it. Waste of money imo The jump starter has enough charge to start a couple cars out of the box. Although they recommended to charge it before use, I jumped 4 cars, and ran my worklight off it for ages straight out of the box. I keep it charged, so whenever I wanna use it, It's ready to use. I just plug it onto the charger every 3-6 months. Even before I charge it, the charge indicator still reads full anyway, so I just charge it to keep it healthy. On mine, the charge time is 8 hours.

I've got A-LSD in my r33, and the A-LSD light never comes on. that means that you have a problem. The slip light comes on if I do a burnout, but that's it

well, it's easy. just buy one. if you lose 180, i'ts not that bad I'd hit it up if I had a credit card and an ebay account.

Thanks for the good tips guys, i'm gonna be doing this soon, so hopefully i won't have any troubles. The last thing I would have wanted to do is try and lever it out and wreck the guard/paint.

Go down to autoone/supercheap auto/dse and buy yourself a "booster pack" Basically, it's a little jump starter. it has a battery in it. you just charge it up. IT's really handy, because it also has a ciggy lighter port on it, and you can run stuff off it too. It'll cost ya about $50. Handiest thing i own. I've used it probably 20 times on various cars since i've bought it. Racv/nrma is useless anyways. Apart from a flat battery, they never help you with anything. Buying 1 booster pack is cheaper than the yearly fee, and ive never paid it again since.

NAh, they're' different. You want the 2530 for the rb20/25. Theoretically, you could fit an rb26 one and have basically the same performance, but the amount of work required would be ridiculous.

Brad, I believe those actuators from the gtr are different. The ones I wanted are the rb20 turbo ones that basically bolt onto the rb25 turbo.

I guess it depends on personal preference. one man's laggy is another man's response machine. I've driven an rb20 with an r34 turbo before. It was definitely more laggier than the stock turbo, but I wouldn't exactly call it laggy in the scheme of things. Highflowing ports out the housing, and fits bigger wheels, so it'll just make it laggier again. most people say the 2530 is a good match to the rb20, but keep in mind, that it is subjective. Response of the 2530 will probably be similar or slightly laggier to what you've got on there now. IMO (I ain't no guru, so feel free to post otherwise), the response of an r33/r34 highflow is similar to that of a 2530. The highflow is a little bit laggier, but it makes more power. Check out the thread about all people's turbo results.

It means you have a mine's remapped ecu. Mine's do all sorts of remaps. That's the thing. I've read the maps off a few mines ecus and they had different maps. They're actually ok, despite what everyone says. There was this mines ecu for an r33 gtst. Everyone know's what rich and retard is - basically, the ecu doesn't know what's going on when there's too much air flow. The remap essentially increased the scale of the airflow that was recognised. The fuel map was left stock, but that's fine, because it's just slightly richer for safety. It idnd't go into ultra rich (that only happens with rich and retard). The ignition timing was raised to different degrees across the map. The ecu ran fine on Caltex 98 octane fuel as tested on the dyno carefully listening out for knock. You really have to dyno the car to see what's going on. Some remaps are even for bigger injectors, bigger turbo etc.

If it makes you feel better, edited

Not really why?