MANWHORE

how much are you willing to pay?

Yeah, as said above. the sensor doesn't really do much. God knows how much it would cost to buy a new one of those. You'd probably have to go to nissan to buy genuine. Considering an o2 sensor is 180 from nissan, that sensor willprobably be the same (ripoff). You did a pretty good job of changing the exhuast over yourself. Some of those bolts can be pretty hard to do. I woulda thought the cat sensor woulda been a piece of cake compared to the dump bolts. Spray wd40, leave it for a day, spray it again, do the same. Tap the top with a hammer. You could even try tightening the bolt ever so slightly to break the rust. What is the problem? is it just tight? or is the thread stripped?

what happened to your car fatz? did you take it bush bashing or something? hahaha, the engine bay and even the boot are packed with dust

Oh, ok, no worries. No hurry, just thought most people went back to work on the 8th.

I'm just wondering, for future reference sake so that I don't do it to my car: The oil filter is normally on not that tight (how tight can you possible tighten it since you tighten by hand, without any tools). How tight was it, and how on earth did the oil fitler bolt break? What removal methods did you try before you tried to squash the fitler in. Did you try sprayin git down with carby/brake cleaner to remove all the oil so you can get a grip and use a grippy pad (those you buy from the supermarket)?

My advice would be you get what you pay for (with the exception of good bargains). e.g. if there is an owner selling a perfect sII for a high price, it's high for a reason (generally). If you buy a cheap one e.g. 10k expecting it to be perfect, it won't be. **i.e. unless if the owner is selling urgently for whatever reason, or is not aware of the market price etc, then you can snap up a bargain.

Well, I suppose what i'm trying to say is, it's not really going to make much of a difference either way, so spend 30 instead of 90.

instead of wasting your money on expensive redline which wont' do anything, because your diff is viscious (separate fluid for the viscous), I would honestly, use a castrol fluid. Castrol lsx90. Cost ya about $30 for a 4L big bottle. You'll need 1.8L. Castrol oils are a fairly good place to start from. At least it'll be correct. Then, see how it feels, if it's good, then fine, it's good. From there, if you have a problem, then go mucking around with different fluids. I have a mech diff, so I'm using motul oil, just so it changes the properties (won't do much to a viscous).

could even be the exhaust knocking against the diff or rear bar. could literally be anything

A lot of money and effort has been put into it. I don't like the look of the 300zx though. Looks old and outdated.

Wheel repair - magman will do it for about $80. It'll look perfect. Doesnt' matter, yard pays for it anyways. Seriously, all these issues are fairly small. If I was buying, even if I had to fix them myself, i'd still buy if I was happy with the car overall. As an added bonus, the yard is fixing it for you. That's a bonus. No cost to you, you get a perfect car. You're not even paying for the repairs! All those things are just small issues. When I bought my car, it had 30 000 ks genuine (I knew the guy in japan). The car overall was immaculate. Not a single swirl in the paint, no scuffs on the interior etc. I bought the car, because I liked the overall perfect condition. There were a few thigns that needed attention e.g. cam cover (bit of a leak - turned out just needed a screw tighten), broken front bar, busted wheel etc. But I chose to buy it, because I knew that the car was perfect. It just had a few tiny things to fix. I had to fix them myself, because I bought the car off a mate from jap, not off a yard. After I fixed these small thigns, it is perfect. It is the cleanest car i've ever seen. I'd much rather buy something, that I know is good by my gut feeling as opposed to antoher car, where the speedo hasn't been wound back as much to say 70 000 ks, but then finding problems later etc.

Almost every skyline out there has been wound back. Contrary to popular belief, the japs might do less ks every year, but a lot of the speedos out there show ridiculous ks. e.g. a 98 model car is now 9 years old. 48000 ks is approximately 5000 ks a year. that's way too little. I'd expect cars to do about 10-15 a year. So about 90 000-100 000 ks for a year of that age is about the average. Don't be worried about what the speedo says. e.g. if another one might say 60000 ks, but it might have done 150 000 ks. another one might say 80 000 ks, but it might be genuine. Judge the car by it's condition, not by the ks (unless if they're excessive). What i'm trying to say, is you were scared at the thought of buying a 100 000k car. I'm just saying, a lot of them will have done around there, unless if you know the guy you bought it from. There's nothing wrong with having done 100 000ks. Just dont' fall into the false security thinking that if the speedo says less that it actually is true (it might be, but more chance that it's not). Ball joint - no problem. My friend just changed the whole lower arm on his r32 - the whole arm was $200 brand new from nissan (much less 2nd hand). Labour was $30. That's hardly something 'major' to be worried about. If you change the ball itself (can just be pressed out), I wouldn't be suprised if the whole exercise was less than $80.

Also silver - fix it as cheaply as possible? like I said, the gasket is $60 for both sides. That's cheap, if it even needs it. Most likely, the screws are just a bit lose and just need to be torqued back to factory spec, then it won't leak anymore. I had to do that to my engine - had 30 000 ks on it. tightened the screws when I saw a seep, and it's perfect now

not necessarily silver. Like I was saying, in light of the fact that sellers always get offered shit prices (i've been there done that), there's no way i'd put on a new set of tyres if I was selling. because i know some pindick is gonna offer me a shit price. also, like I said, upper engine leak is normally either just spilt oil from filling up. Either that, or cam cover seal. It's seriously a cheap gasket to replace. It's a normal maintenance item. All cars usually need a new gasket at around 50 000 ks or around 4-5 years. Almost every skyline i've seen has either had the gasket replaced, or it's leaking. Also, with the cam cover gasket, if you check it out, it's only held on by screws unlike other cars which is held on by a bolt. the screws loosten themselves, and it leaks. You just have to grab a screw driver and torque it, clean it up with brake cleaner, then it won't have anymore leak

Also, i'd like to add jenna, if you look at any car, it'll always have these small issues with it. That is, unless if the price you're paying is very very high, then the owner would have fixed everything. In today's market, when you sell a car, you get all these little pimplefaced nerds coming up to ya going i'll give you 10k for it. Most owners do not bother about correcting small issues, because they know some f**ker will offer them a shit price, so they just leave it.

Seriously, those issues are very very minor. e.g. tyres worn - who gives a f**k. tyres get worn, that's life, it's just a normal maintenance issue. Few hundred bucks for a new set then you'll get 30-40000ks out of them anyways. Suspension dust boots worn - as with all cars, suspensions wear out. they're probably the stock suspension. Just because the boot is worn, doesn't mean the shocks are worn. Just get the boots replaced - $10 each plus labour or do it yourself. You can pick up a brand new set of handling suspension which are a lot better than the stock boat suspension. Check out the group buy section. Odometre/speedo broken - minor issue - check out the for sale section for a new cluster - $100-150? Minor oil? half of the time, it's from doing oil changes and they spill the oil. If not, it's just the cam cover gasket. that part is about $55 from nissan new. It's so easy to change. It's about 10 screws per side, take the cover off, put the new gasket on, put the screws back on. If a workshop charges more than $20, i'd go elsewhere. small rust spot - seriously, what car doesn't. Any car that has a couple of years on it will have a few small rust spots. I bought my car off someone i knew from japan. It had 30 000ks on it, and it's always been garaged. He didn't live where the snow is. It still has the odd rust spot. If the whole car is very good in general, and you really like it, I reckon go for it.

I keep trying to call you and msg you about the charcoal canister. Reply?

hey guys, I was wondering whether anything's happening with this?

If you can organise a proper double din unit. like a decent unit, not an ugly one like that and a decent price like cheaper than ebay (500-550 on ebay), then i'm in.

All pms replied to, first one who pays gets it

bump

It's called japanese. They are the people who mad the car that you drive.

Don't mean to be nasty, but I'm not a big fan. It looks really nasty. it looks like it's just stuck on and it is.

Rand, I think he means with everything off.

If that's a hks 2535, you have to use that line or get a new braided line. The stock line won't bolt up.