MANWHORE

The way I see it, there are differing degrees of stuffed-up-ed-ness. I have seen compression test results where the rear cylinders are all slightly down compared to the front. I suppose that woudl mean that a slight amount of wheel went back into the engine. There are also the really bad ones where compression is like 50psi (like wrxhoon's). If it's only mild, you probably won't feel anything? Why wouldn't you just get a compression/leakdown test? It's just like going to the doctor - I think my arm is broken, but I don't want an xray. Will antibiotics work? From what I've read, it seems that in about 1/3-1/2 of the times that rb26 turbos blow, the engine is gone. Then again, if the engine was not gone, people probably won't post about it. PS: hanyou, about you selling your oil cooler after your turbos blew, I thought that was pretty irresponsible. When I asked if your turbos had blown, you briefly said that you do not believe in the whole wheel going back through the engine occurence. I hope you notified the buyer of it.

turn the adjusting bolts more. On the r33s, you have to adjust them heaps. Like get a spanner/1/4 ratchet and turn it like a million times. have your car away from the wall about 20 m. Look at where the light is pointing. Look away. turn it a million times. look back, it will have moved. It just moves slowly. PS: headlight alignment is supposed to be slightly down and slightly left to minimise glare. Theyr'e not meant to be straight. Cheers

yeah right! THe amount of money that you lose when buying and selling and buying another car, selling that, then buying a skyline again is huge. Think of all the stamp duty, money lost, rego, insurance etc. you'll hvae to pay stamp duty 3 times!!! Whatever money you make from 'investing' will be less than the amount lost.

Well, it's not really a big deal. Everyone who imports a car seems to be hit with little suprises here and there. Espeically with 15 year old imports. You should have known that you need to replace the belts. A few hundred bucks is nothing. Back when I got my r33 complied, compliance was 5k, so you've got quite a bit of money to spend yet before it gets anywhere near being expensive.

nissan data scan isn't the best consult software imo. It's ok, but i actually prefer one of the free ones. it can do more. I forgot the name.

prim, i've got the same bez as you. Check out a pic of a sI cluster. The cut out is the shape of the sI cluster. The sI cluster doesn't have little holes cut out for the lights. it has a big cut out the shape of the cutout on the bezza. Also, the sI cluster is flat, whereas the sII is sexy and contoured Kez, I'll post it tomorrow. I've been at the gf's house for a few days so I haven't been able to post it.

mark, were you running the fish and chip shop? or were you working there? Damn it, I thoguht you were volunteering to help me wiht my turbo install on the weekend

Congratulations stephan The rules are there for a reason. Almost every single p plater that I've ever spoken to has been over confident. This means that they think they can drive better than they actually do. They take greater risks. Wait until you study for your dqt, you'll know what I mean. It covers all the statistics. I agree with the restriction. When you're on your Ls, you're still driving aroudn with mummy. As soon as kids get off their Ls and onto their ps, suddenly, mummy's gone, and you feel like you can do whatever you like. yes, I was a p plater once so i do know what it's like. I remember as soon as I got my ps, I used to speed and do burnouts (on private roads of course). Anyways, learn how to drive. I mean learn how to drive properly, and get some experience before you drive something powerful for your safety, and everyone else's safety.

ps: how would being a mechanic help at all? you'd have just as much chance of getting an exemption (being a mechanic) as someone who works at the supermarket (they can argue they need a car to get tow ork and it's their only car).

nope, you're not the first one to think hmmm... maybe i'll go for an exemption. Do a search. People have answered this question so many times, people can't reallly be bothered anymore.

The problem with the s15 injectors, is they're old injectors. I would get them ultrasonically cleaned, get the pintle caps changed, change all the orings, etc etc. Sometimes, they'll flow well, othertimes, they won't. they're not that cheap at the end of the day after you do all this. The deutchwerks highflowed injectors seem to be much better. PS: the s15 injectors always seem to flow about 440 cc not 480

Initially I didn't believe it myself, but I've read so much about it on sau as well as from various sources (I got really interested in it - self interest project). The main argument presented against it happening is that the ceramic is merely dust and it has to combat high velocity gas to go backwards. The thing is though, some of the particles are actually quite significantly bigger than dust. If you have a look at wrxhoon's pistons, you'd need some pretty big dust to do that. Also, think about this this way. The particles are moving with a lot of momentum. Imagine if you shot a gun into the wind. It would still go against the wind even though the wind is strong. Think of the relative difference.

well, it's not that simple. Your exhaust manifold flows through the turbo. If you take the turbo off, you'll need to get an na manifold. you'll need to do all the intake piping like the na car. keep in mind the turbo has oil and water lines. they'll probably need to be removed, and the outlets bunged. It's not an easy job. I know that you don't want to think in retrospect, but perhaps you should have thought about it before you bought it? The reason why I brought this up, is what is your added fear now? If you were to continue driving it (i'm not condoning it), but is there any additional problem to what you initially anticipated? Perhaps sell it and buy an na? or keep it in the garage for 3 years? to keep you excited and liking your car during this time, maybe while it's in the garage, you could do a build up. Or just get an older friend to drive you around in it every weekend? I'm sure he/she won't mind.

In regards to what brand, If you were to put mobil, castrol, caltex, etc etc all in a line next to each other, imo, you'd be pretty hard pressed finding out what the difference by looking at the bottle. I haven't really seen any threads of people saying they've had problems with any particular brand. I use castrol because it appeals to me. I haven't had any problems. That's not to say you won't though

What you said above is sort of contradictory. You want mega loud, but you don't want attention. It's sorta hand in hand. It's like a guy saying he likes boys, but he's not gay. Anyways, on my car, I have a 3" split dump pipe, a metal highflow cat and a 3 1/2" straight through catback exhaust with no mufflers in it. In the scheme of things, it's not that loud. Like if you've heard rotors etc, they're like 5 times as loud. But I love it. If I could make it louder, I would.

yeah, that would be pretty cool. I've been tempted to buy a welder (as the next tool on my list). Yes i'm a tool whore. I mean like at bunnings, they have ozito stick welders for $100. Yes, I know that a stick welder is inaccurate, and not as good as a mig, but it's cheap. The cigweld mig is $500.

I've got one. I would not ever get one again. The difference it makes is very minimal. If you're going to get defected, you're going to get defected. Cops are usually more like this has a cannon, it's a skyline, i'm going to defect it. Whether it's outrageously loud, or semi outrageously loud, it's much of a muchness. Also, when it's fully open, my car is down on power. When it's closed, even in first, you can literally watch the tacho climb slowly, whereas normally, it snaps to the top.

any form of powersteering fluid/atf is fine. I used castrol dexron III (atf)

I remember back about 2 years ago when no one believed that the ceramic dust could go back through the engine. Even the notorious Sydneykid didn't and still doesn't believe it (nothing against sk). Back then, no one even suspected that this could be the problem. You'd see the odd thread like oh, blew my turbo, my engine's also gone, but no one linked it to the turbos letting go. Sure, it seems hard to believe, but it did happen to wrxhoon. Ever since he found that out, it's happened to many others after that. Probably 5-10 occurences that were actually documented on sau last year? There have been a million threads with people arguing both sides e.g. how can fine dust go upstream of high velocity gas at wot. Then there is the other side .... As wrxhoon said. It happens. That's it, end of story. If you happen to have an engine that is still good after the turbo lets go, you have good luck.

I received my bezel and they were the ones you have. That is the shape of the sI cluster. I'm sending mine back to kez now. If you have a look at the sII cluster, it is not flat. That's why the sI bezel won't fit.

sII headlights look so much nicer and more modern than the old sI headlights. Especially how the sI are usually all cloudy

jeezus christ. there was just a thread about this like last week. look back a couple pages. i think the thread was by ben1981 i posted quite a bit about it in that thread. gtr pump.

i won't say anything yet just in case if it's no good. i'll write up the results after it's done.

I'm guessing you have a big ricer setup in the boot blocking the way? In terms of possibility, sort of yes. How hard will it be? very. The cap is pretty hard to remove. You really want to have as much space as possible to try and do it. Also, the inspection panel is really small, and there's all this crap in the way. You'd be bending aroudn the bend and having no force to open the lid. Also, I don't like breathing in fuel, so i'd prefer to do it with the boot lid open to have more fresh air.

I wouldn't do it using the stock lines. Have you actually seen them? I mean actually played with them. Like when you change the fuel filter, give the hose a squeeze. My car came from japan with about 30 000ks on it (yes genuine, bought from a japanese friend). I've since done a few ks on it, and the hoses are quite firm. Notice how hard it is to get the filter off, because the hose has hardened and formed aroudn the filter? Just replace them with a better quality hose. If you go to your local auto one store, they'll know what I mean. They have the cheap hose and the expensive hose. You'd better replace the hose clamps too with better clamps. That's not to say that your stock lines and clamps won't cut it, but I like things to be perfect, and the way I see it, it's cheap insurance.