MANWHORE

I have yet to see a test on additive that adds 30 points as they claim. The bottle of boosters are so small. If adding a few mL to 60 L will add 30 points, it must be some serious tarzanian man juice

sarkis, what happened mate? was it your fault?

Ben, yes, any structural modification to the car must be engineered. Just because you make it clean, doesn't make it legal or roadworthy. Just because engineers clear it, doens't mean that it's good. Anything that you take from the reo is making you that amount less safe and allowing more damage to occur in an accident. Also, that's not what most people do from the pics i've seen on sau. Most people seem to chop the whole front of the reo off. I'm just letting Ben know of the possibilities that can occur when the reo is modified or removed. Also letting him know that with ingenuity, it is possible to install one without modifying the reo. On a sI, My friend has a smaller jap core with piping on the same side which is smaller than the typical just jap kit and it fits without the reo being modified. Also, if he needs to get a new front bar, then so be it? Better that than chopping the reo

On the sII r33s you can fit it inside the reo. Is yours a sII? Also, If you cut the front bar neatly/get a new frotn bar, it will allow you to fit omsehting big in front of the reo. On the sII front bars, there's this big section at the mouth of the bar, where it just goes back and does nothing. If this section is trimmed neatly, so that the mouth doesn't go back as far, you can't tell it's trimmed

squeely is most likely the aircon belt. most of the r ugly poos are pretty old. If they're still running the factory belts, they would have stretched over time. You can adjust the tension. Or if the adjuster is already at the end, then replace it

that's not the only thing i'd be doig either. I'd pull the fuse too. Seriously, it might not blow, but if it blows, you're f**kED! Imagine if you were working on a bomb, because that's what it is

Kez, I sent the bezzas to you. Did you get them?

No you can't. you definitely have to chop the frotn bar. I absolkutely would not chop the front bar reinforcement at all. Yes, it VERY much is a roadworthy item. You will die easier in a collision and it will void your insurance. The front bar reo (useless as people think it is) ties the two chassis rails together. In a collission, the reo causes the chassis rails to take the force. AS you know, the chassis rails run along the car, so it's in the direction of the collision for a head on. If you don' thave the reo, in a head on collission in the middle between the chassis rails, there is essentially notmuch stopping the item e.g. a tree from going straight through, and punching your engine backwards through the firewall into the cabin. How much do you like your legs? Also, it ties the chassis rails together sideways. If you get a hit from the front side, instead of one chassis rail taking all the hit and getting bent heaps, the load is spread over to the other one too. I have a friend who's insurnace was voided. He ran head on, into a traffic light pole at about 70ks. The pole punched the motor backwards. You guessed it. No reo at all. He removed it to fit a veilside front bar. Insurance voided. He lost his car, and he had to pay for the traffic light! Imagine if it was a speed camera. Do you know ho wmuhc those are worth? Out of everything you can modify on a car, please don't play with the impact protection. Its like why don't you just chuck out the side intrusion bars for weight reduction. You CAN install a fmic without chopping the reo. I have done it a few times on a skyline. I won't install one if it requires chopping.

yeah, but the thing is, how do you know that it'll bolt into your car? You might have to change the shafts too and everything. there's no way that the guy would be serious about swapping that diff for your alsd. He won't be able to get it working in his car. you need the g sensors, etc. there's the tank inside the boot, all the lines running around, wiring, different cluster. There's a massive amount of stuff.

The tranny service kit usually includes the filter, sump plug gasket and sump pan gasket. There's no need to get a tranny 'specialist' to use their machine to flush it. Waste of money. What I do is undo the heater hose too. Then you'll get most of the fluid out. Fill her up, start it, moev it through the gears, and check the level. You can't get all the fluid out, btu that doesn't matter. Just do it more often. e.g. when you do your engine oil, you can't get it all out. But that doesn't matter. The new oil dilutes the dirty stuff. Just do it more often

If you take it to battery world, they'll tell you if it's the earth or terminals or whatever. Of course, different stores are of different degrees of help, but they do install batteries, and terminals, so they know if it's a dirty terminal or if it's the battery. The first thing they'll do is probably clean the terminal before they do the load test. The good thing about them, is they have the tester, and they don't charge you labour! Battery world sell this really good battery called amaron. It is a silver calcium battery. For those that know about batteries, you'll know that silver calcium is very high quality. Lots of starting charge, good life, etc. They're maintenance free too. They're cheap as. About $80 for a big one (forgot the size). I use one of those in my daily. I dont' use one in my r33, because I have a sealed one for the boot. I wouldn't pay an autoelect $60 when you can get a new b82rz for $80. Just get b82rz world to check it. If it's terminals, they'll just replace them. having terminals replaced costs $10! If it's the battery, then get a new one.

Sif go to a transmission specialist. I've done this on other autos on my floor in the garage. It's not hard. Just about 10-15 bolts holding the sump on. They're all low torque, so easy to undo. Drop the pan, dump the old oil, replace the filter, replace the gasket, replace the pan, fill with oil. Easy as. I wouldn't bothe rwith the tranny specialist. Any mechanic can do it. I wouldn't pay more than $50 in labour to do it. The tranny service kit comes with everything you need. check the manual for the recommended amount of dexIII.

No one actually knows much about how the alsd system functions. paul r33 has done some tests with rigging a switch to keep the pump running, but that's it. No one has taken it apart to inspect how it works etc

nope nope nope. What ceffie said is correct. make sure the actuator is working. With my stock turbo, I used to hit huge boost in first. I've hit 16 psi in first when I was testing stuff. My car when stock used to boost VERY well in first. If your car is not, then you hvae a problem

oh yeah, you definitely will. Like lighting, the smallest drop in voltage sees big gains. e.g. with lighting, having the headlights at 11volts, the brightness is almost half that if the voltage was 13.8volts. However, bear in mind that yes, it will flow more if you do the wiring, but do you need it? e.g. if you have a big pump, you might not need to potential extra. For my cars, i've never bothered to rewire it. The stock pump wouldn't be enough for me if I rewired it, and the aftermarket pump flows enough, so I don't find the need to wire it.

Sorry that I can't help you with a particular place, but I knwo that there are places that do hydrolic jack repair. When I was googling before when I was looking to buy a trolley jack, there were heaps of places. I can't tell you which place is good or not, but if you go to google, and type hyraulic jack repair, there are many places. I tried to copy the googly results, but the link doesn't work.

Haha, you're going to get confused again mate. I'll try and help you. NGK have iridium plugs. Iridium plugs dodn't offer any performance gains. They are about 5 times as expensive and offer more than twice the life (in our high perfomance cars, the plugs get destroyed fairly quick). for $17 for an iridium or $4 for a copper, I know which one i'd go for. Anyways, the standard iridium plugs have the same number as the copper plugs we buy except they have an ix at the end. e.g. bcpr6eix or bkr6eix. Note how I was telling you the last character set determines what sort of plug it is. e.g. s is standard, ix is iridium, y (now nothing) used to be v groove. Anyways, the standard iridiums oinly go up to a heatrange 6. If you want heatrange of 7 or more, you need to go for their racing iridiums. The racing iridiums come as iriway/iritop. The different names just correspond to the bcpr/bkr height above the thread. So basically, the plug that he told you about is basiaclly the iridium version of the copper plug you're going to buy

hehe, it's cool. I'm trying to clear it up. lol, coz I got really confused myself a while ago. The y stands for v groove. That means that the electrode actually has a groove cut in it so it looks liek a v. The ones you have atm are the vgroove. They are a better plug. NGKs specs do have a y for the v groove, but when they make the plugs now, they seem to have dropped the y. Now when they print the s, it means no vgroove (standard). For the v groove, they don't print anything intsead of printing a y. The v groove is supposed to allow you to run a larger gap and thus have a stronger spark as opposed to the standard plugs without the v groove. If you can't get the v groove, the standards are fine, but the v groove is a little better if you can wait to have them ordered in. The A means special plug. I have no idea what sort of special it is. I have never seen the ya plug. Basically, the plug that you've got in there atm is now known as the bkr6e. If you want to go up a heat range, it is now called the bkr7e. If they don't have those available, and they only have the ones with the 11 at the end, i.e. bkr6e-11 or bkr7e-11, those are also fine. It just means that they have a 1.1mm gap, so you'll have to regap them down. If you can't get those, the bcpr6e or bcpr7e are also ok. below the thread, that is, the important part of it is still the same (you can tell by holding it next to your old plug). The only difference, is the height of the collar above the thread is a bit taller, but the coilpack has a spring in it, so it's fine anyways.

I also have an a-lsd, and like you I find the same thing. MY system is working properly. The ALSD light never comes on. The slip light comes on when you spin the wheels. But I find the diff very lazy. If you're doing a massive burnout, it will turb both the wheels, but normally it generally open wheels. I have changed the diff oil - no metal shavings, which means it's not doign anything. Also changed the transmax z in the boot reservoir. Didn't do anything. Im really interested in the results how you go.

don't worry about getting confused. When I was looking for plugs about 2 months ago, I got crazily confused about all the different numbers. After heaps of research I worked it out.

Guys stop creating confusion. I'll clear it up once and for all. BCPR plugs are recommended by nissan for the rb20 and rb26. BKR plugs are recommended by nissan for the rb25. The difference between both of the plugs are purely the difference in height ABOVE the thread. That is, it has no difference in how it runs. The coilpack spring takes up the extra height anyways. GTShortie- the s on the end of the plug dictates standard plug. Having no s means that it's the v groove plug (better). So basically, say if you want to use the heatrange 6, you have: bcpr6es (standard plug 0.8 gap) bcpr6es-11 (standard plug 1.1 gap) bcpr6e (vgroove 0.8mm) bcpr6e-11 (vgroove 1.1mm) You get it now? Same goes for the bkr: bkr6es (standard plug 0.8 gap) bkr6es-11 (standard plug 1.1 gap) bkr6e (vgroove 0.8mm) bkr6e-11 (vgroove 1.1mm) Like I was saying, both bkr/bcpr are useable on either rb20/25/26. The extra height is ABOVE the thread, so doens't make any difference ot the running. the extra height is taken up by the coilpack spring. There is no A in the plugs.

nope, no a either. IT's just bkr6e or bcpr6e ps: sid, there is no dash 8 on the plug when you buy it. If you get the bcpr6e, it is 0.8mm gap.

I wouldn't run non resistor plugs. Just for future reference, ngk have dropped the y on the end now. so the plugs are: BKR6e; and BCPR6e those are the v grove ones. the non vgrove are: BKR6es; and BCPR6es If you hold the BKR and BCPR next to each other, everything below the thread is identical. The only difference between them is that the bit above the thread is about 2-3mm taller with the bcpr. Won't make a difference because it's absorbed by the coilpack spring. When you're buying plugs, make sure you don't get the one with the -11 at the end. This means 1.1mm. This may have been the reason why it didn't feel as good? If you buy the 11, you'll have to regap them. PS: I don't know the answer to your heatrange question, because i'm in the same situation. But what they say, is every 50hp you increase above stock, you should increase the heat range. Nissan recommend the 5 heatrange stock, which is about 130-140 rwkw. I'm guessing that for around 200+, the 7 heat range is the better plug?

What was wrong with the 10 psi actuator? I remember back when we were looking for them, you were so keen to get it? Doesn't it hold boost properly etc? Cheers Chris

get it on the forklift and shake it? You mean put the car on a forklift?Jeez you canadians are very weird! Never use a forklift on your skyline. The chassis rails are weak as butter and you'll bend them. If you pull the box apart, you'll probably wreck the seals and have to replace them.