MANWHORE

If you've modified/removed the front bar reo andhad a front on smash, it is quite possibly a reason to void your insurance. I don't know why people keep doing this. Do you know that the reo is the thing that ties the two chassis rails together? the idea is that when you hit, the chassis rails take the impact and move backwards. If you remove/weaken the reo, if you hit in the middle, nothing takes the impact. few weeks ago a friend of mine hit a traffic light pole. You'd think that these poles are really weak, but let me tell you,it wasn't pretty. STraight on into the pole, the pole snapped his engine mounts and pushed the engine back into the fire wall. His insurance was voided. He had to pay for his car AND the pole and traffic light!

silent, I know that you know what you're talking about, and i'm not having a go at you personally, but this is what I believe. The bodykit shop that I have forgotten the name of. Is it carhate or something similar like that charge about $14-1500 for a kit. Someone else like gforce body kits will sell a full kit for $5-600. In terms of fitment, I have never fitted a gforce kit, but I have a friend who has one on his car. No work was done to it, just sand, highfill, spray and bolt. Of course, I understand that fibreglass copies are not perfect. What i'm saying, is that his bodykit is quite acceptable. Say if a genuine bomex/vertex/veilside etc plastic bumper is called 100%, his was probably an 80-85%. That is, you might see a little bit of ripple here and there, little bit sticking out here etc, but generally it was very good. for 3 times the price i'd expect their things to be better, but to be honest, I have been pretty dissapointed with botht the quality of the product, as well as the way they handle issues wiht their product. Their answer is always let my people fit it. If the fit is shit, it's shit. Doesn't matter how you maneuver it and bolt it, it won't fit well. For the kit that i'm talking about, it needed reglassing of certain bits, etc etc. The smash repairer was looking for another 1500 on top of that to make it good. Note, that is not painting, that is just the fibre work. The car was going to be sprayed anyways. Also, the 1500 was not to make it perfect. He wanted 5k. So suddenly this bodykit ends up costing almost as much as a genuine abs one, but it's still not abs

imo, it's a big waste of money. I've seen tests done on the octane boosters, and they contain one or a combination of different sorts of active ingredients. Depending on what it is, it might actually be detrimental. e.g. adding ethanol boosts octane rating. I forgot what the term is, but ethanol also has less kj of energy per mol that you burn. I think that's right. Like people say with the shell extreme 100 octane, you need a lot more ignition timing to run it, otherwise you make less power. IMO, don't waste your money. It's just marketing. Full sik octane booster makes your car sik. I drive my car hard everytime I drive it. I don't use octane booster. If your tune is safe (e.g. checked on dyno), I don't see how using octane booster will make a difference. If your tune is not safe (e.g. leaning out), then I don't see how using octane booster that one day will make a difference either. If it's always lean and pinging, what's one more day?

whoa, that's pretty strange isn't it. You learn something new everyday. I remember when I first got my car, I didn't know what the fuse box label said. Just to make sure every fuse was good, I checked every single one. lol

It's different for everyone. Some people run like 18 psi and they don't blow. Others run 10 psi and they blow. It's all luck of the draw. We were muckinng around running an rb25 turbo at 16 psi on an rb20. It gets thrashed every few days, and it's still going strong. Been a while too

Hey I'm sure that you know that the car won't run very well in the heat (you do live in the heat after all, lol). Mine runs liek crap. But in answer to your question, nah, the heat won't stop you running high boost. It's most likely the boost controller you're using. Just to give you an example. If you disconnected the vacuum line from the waste gate actuator - so just leave it out in the air, and floored it, it'd probably hit 50 psi or something (don't try it or you'll blow the turbo and maybe your engine.

Dyken, I replied your pm. Basically the strut braces are brand new. They look really good with the shiny silver bar with black ends. The bars are very stiff. I have one on my car, and you can pull it or stand on it and it hardly moves. It made a huge difference to the way my car handles My friend has a cusco bar, and they are identical. The cusco just has blue ends

well, if you're not having problems, then there's no worries no matter what the voltage drops to. If it's not lasting or whatever, then think about it.

yeah, move your afm, don't run any pipe off the turbo, just run the turbo bare, and remove/block your bov

If your alarm is killing a 380 cca battery in 2-3 days, there's somethign wrong with your alarm or electrical system. are all the terminals clean and is the battery getting charged etc? was the alarm installed properly?

if you be sensible, there's not really such thing as too big. that is, don't go for like 50000 cca or something. I've used 800cca or even 1000 cca batteries in cars (not my skyline), but have never had a problem. But honestly, for you, I don't see why 4-500 cca won't be absolutely massive. I used to use a 280 cca battery in my skyline and it was perfect. I coudl run the stereo for a while (i don't have a fully sik sub though), starts fine after leaving it for a couple weeks. Powered my alarm fine. Bigger is only better if you have a reason to need more power than stock.

ok, I'm a spaz. I just dug myself deeper into a hole Before I read your reply, I used another esy out in that side hole, and as you said, it broke again since the torque wasn't being applied to turn the bolt. Luckily it's only just the turbo heatshield bracket. People normally chuck that out and don't use it, but I wanna cover the turbo. so if anyone's got one in sydney, i'll take it

bump

Guys, all buyers fell through. it is still for sale.

yeah, that's what I figured, so that's why I thought remove the water line,s o that you can replace the hose, and do the clamp up first without the line being in the way when the space is already tight. Then you can put the water line into the other end of the hose, and do that clamp up?

probably a hks 2535

If you're talking about the same one as I am, it's not that hard. Is it the water feed/return line for the turbo? How it wraps aroudn the back of the block and has a little bit of rubber hose on it? If so, check otu the tutorial section. For the r32 turbo swap thread. You probably won't be able to undo the 24mm banjo witht he oil line in the way, so i'd just removoe the oil line. that'll take 2 secs. Then unbolt the 24mm banjo, reach around the block and undo the hose clamp. etc etc Or maybe, you might be able to just change the hose without removing the water and oil line all together. Just giving you two ways to do it if you get stuck one way or the other

It's only on the heat shield bracket on the turbo. i'd prefer not to pay someone $50 to extract this bit of bolt when I can probably get one of the brackets for $10? or for free even

That means that your battery is 'old' or quite small or both. Iff you go to your local battery world, they have a load tester. If you get them to run the tester on it, they can show you the voltage drop for different loads. If you're havivng problems e.g. hard to start on cold mornings, then replace it. If you're not having any problems, then elave it until you do don't use your multimetre to do stuff like that

Hey guys I feel like a retard, but I was trying to use an easy out today. This is the first time i've ever done it. But I broke the easy out! The broken bit of bolt turned a bit, so I knew it wasn't seized anymore. Then boom. It snapped and the bit got stuck inside! I managed to drill again, but the hole sort of went to the side because the easyout pushed the drill bit sideways. I tried a new easyout, but it still didn't work. what can I do?

the internals of the rb25/26 boxes are essentially the same thing. Refer to the rb26 discussion

wegs, seriously do a search man. I've done like a hundred threads on it. It'll be gay. that's it. ronin, i'm not sure what you mean by havin gthe cut off shield across the top. If it is how I think it'll be, your light will be up, and the cutoff will be down the bottom, so it'll be reversed. THAT IS, if it is mounted how I think it is. Cheers

Just pump the pedal many times, and see if it changes it. I don't see how you can stuff up a clutch bleed.

Hey guys I got a spare key cut tonight, and it doesn't work!!! grrr Luckily I didn't pay for it. When you put the key into the lock, it feels tight. The orignial key feels quite nice and just slides in easily. Before you say that my key was worn, When I bought my car, I got two keys. One of them was used,a nd the other was brand new unused. I got the copy off the unused one. Looking at the copy carefully, it looks almost the same. I can pick out small differences. Is it a matter of just getting a competent key cutter guy? Cheers

yeah, but motor oil is also motor oil. You could say that yes, the $8 stuff at kmart is still oil, but I wouldn't use it. lol. Just like how supercheap auto have their own brand brake fluid!