sonicz

Yes camber arms only. No point paying just for bushes when complete arms are around the same money and offer much more adjustment Thankyou so much. Thats exactly the type of thing I am after. I will likely get them, but I prefer poly bushes to rubber as they offer a much more direct feel with some flex and give which I prefer based on past experience (going from stock rubber to poly). Anything like this around? The last time I had rose joints they started clunking after about 6 months. I hate rose joints so much. Zero flex (which is a bad thing IMO) and dust shield or not who figured metal to metal contact on a constantly moving vibrating part without any lubrication a was good idea in the first place. FFs what is up with the parts scene and their love for rose joints.... Intersting you say this because no one has brougth up the gktech arms? They ussualy make top tier quality stuff and although they are rose jointed they claim they are teflon coated so I don't know what kind if impact that will have on their wear and tear. please have a look at these and tell me what you guys think. http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-180sx-s14-s15-200sx-r32-r33-skyline-rear-camber-arms.html So its these vs the hardrace rubber arms? Any chance of the hardrace ones snapping at the welds?

This http://www.ebay.com/itm/181186407916?item=181186407916&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:eRTM:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr vs This http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rear-UPPER-Camber-Arms-TYPE-2-S14-S15-R33-R34-/130958629979?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7dbe1c5b&_uhb=1 I know Gktech sell good ones for around the $200 mark but I'M not a big fan of rose joints either way and all 3 are rose jointed I believe. Is there any cheap bush type adjustable camber arms out there? Im also curios as to why the same arms as the first ones are listed as aluminium in one page but steel in another? Anyone know what they truly are? Here are the same arms as the first but this time they are described as "high strength steel" http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ADJUSTABLE-REAR-UPPER-CAMBER-CONTROL-ARM-KIT-95-98-02-240SX-S14-S15-R33-R34-RED-/350732093478?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a9430826&_uhb=1

Thanks for the offer John though I'm busy these next few weeks, maybe later on.

Yes Sydney. Yes only 98 . Caltex 98 pings the most. Then V power, then BP Ultimate. But it runs like shit on BP, i.e slow. V power is the best all rounder. I should have said "whats 98?", Imagine the cascade of replies

Yea I fitted the stocker back. I think the car ran richer for a while but still had pining issues. The A-FPR is simply set up where the stock one belongs. I have tried turning up the pressure a little, heaps, etc. It helps a little with pinging, but the car doesn't run as well with high pressure and still pings up high. Anyway thanks for the comments everyone, I think I have enough to go on now. Replacing or cleaning Injectors and checking timing belt is what i'll be doing next.

Johnnylicte, Yup I agree the car should not be running lean. That's why I am looking into injectors. If I am not going to upgrade ecu/inj/remap, I will go clean stockies or fit another stock set. Vorse and others referring to CAS, I agree. Ideally the timing should be checked properly with a timing gun instead of relying on ECU. You never know the belt coudl be fitted wrong but I highly doubt it. I have also tried 2 CAS, and every other skyline when you fit the CAS dead center they work perfect provided nothing is faulty. Heck I've advanced the cas on another gts-t a fair bit and it still didn't ping. I don't think a small timing issue +- or going to make the car ping like that. Timing belt looks also fine. Reg is adjustable yea. Already on Second AFM. AFM is fine. You can call it being defensive if you want, I am simply pointing out how useless it is to make a comment like "sell it and buy a Corrola". Nobody that has bought a skyline, and is bothered to keep it and make it run better is going to read a comment like that and think, by god, hes right. time for a corolla. Most of the time people drive them till they die or even scrap them when running. I see tons of r33s being wrecked for parts because they sell for as little as 3k. If you guys find comments like that just plain funny then yea, I like humor on forums too. But personally I only found it funny the first few times and Its clearly not aimed at helping anything, its just done for gloating and showmanship. Wanting a stock car to run right using stock parts is not half arsed. They didn't need a need a inj upgrade/remap/ecu out of the factory to run right, and as I said other skylines don't ping. What your're saying is along the lines of your fridge light breaks so if you try to replace the bulb you are doing it half arsed. You gotta buy a new fridge. Its might be something small like inj blocked and not enough fuel. I also have very good coil packs in there with a strong spark they're probably burning the shit out of whatever fuel goes in cos the car goes pretty good for what it is.

Very nice attitude. Hows the view from up there? I actually think I've seen you make similar comments a number of times in the past, but don't quote me on that. Wanting the car to run right at 7-10 psi i.e mostly stock is not asking for anything special. I don't think its unreasonable to want the stock tune to handle that. I see it done all the time. In addition, do you realize the kind of people that are now buying skylines, especially r33s gts's? They treat them like absolute crap and they are bought and sold for chips. They are treated as next to worthless. If you should be talking down to anyone, its them, not the people that actually want to take care of them. If I sell it and buy a corolla as you suggest the car will probably end up in a scrap yard. Yup I've already been advised of this and thats definitively what I'll most likely do. I just wanted to know instead of blowing the money on a clean if I could get a small upgrade at the same time. Thus the reason for this thread. Already done and fitted. Its possible, but unlikely. I actually have managed to convince myself the timing is ok via Nissan consult. It mostly sits on 15 at idle, the reading sometimes flaps about from 0-15, but I tested another r34 and it was doing the same thing so I think its normal. Theres a thread about it I've made on SAU i think. As for the ecu knowing about the injectors. Your right, it woudlnt. I was wondering that too because I have heard the ECU can adjust timing and duty cycle a certain amount But if the 02 sensor only works at idle, the ECU would have to be going purely of programmed stock maps with all stock parts.

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not really sure how that would work on a mostly stock rb25? Vorse. Looked into this . Yes most of SR turbo are 370cc, except for the manual S15s. Spec R are 480cc and the Spec S 440cc. They are a direct fit for the Rb25. This is what I was thinking of.

What do you mean by didn't like it? As in ran rough? too rich, loss of power etc? Looks like I will just go with a clean of the stock injectors if that's the case.

Yes this is on a r33 gts-t I would love to do new ECU +tune. The problem is that opens the door to another 3-4 k cost minimum, which I cant do. So its this or nothing. So what if its running a tiny bit rich? I don't see the huge problem especially since I can turn the boost up to compensate. I have already checked my ecu+AFM doesn't go crazy until about 13-14 psi which I'm more than happy with. Rich for a change may be good. I remember seeing 200sx injectors were a drop in upgrade or something like that.

Thats exactly what I want, richer. Its currently running lean and pinging. Yes I have. That was the first thing I did. Ive tried 3 different new fuel pumps, now on walbro 255 voltage modded. These plugs were only exposed to stock boost levels for a month or so. As low as my boost controller goes. about 6-7 psi. The car doesnt ping at this level, but does higher. I cant really tell if the car is hitting R&r but i haven't noticed any retardation or richness or loss of power. i have turned the boost way up past 14-15 and I hit the AFM cut-off where the car suddenly jerks with a loss of power, but my problems are not anywhere near that level.

ok. Even with say 400cc injectors? How would it know? Especially if you unplug the o2 sensor? I've done it and car doesn't run and worse with 02 sensor unplugged.

My car is leaning out so instead of cleaning out the stock injectors I figure buy another set that is slightly bigger. I believe the stock are 370cc. Can I fit bigger injectors that are around 450cc or 500cc? I'm not ready for a new ecu and tune yet. I figure the computer should be able to adjust for the extra fuel slightly and If its running a big rich that's ok cos I have the boost higher and the car is running lean as it is anyway. Anyone have any direct bolt in recomendations?

Alright you got me, my car also lactates oil when its turned on, but any real answers? To me they look a bit on the lean side. Some more than others. I guess this does point to injectors?

ofcourse it will work. I remember seeing a guy here that done it he said the results were great, as in ran better than a regular rb25det. Just have to watch out you don't lean out and ping What ECU are you planning to use?

"If you buy a genuine Walbro you should have no issues, it's the knock offs causing the confusion. I have twin 255's intank and have been running them for years on e85 without a problem. These days I would go for the e85 416L version just for the sealed plug and the fact they are designed for long term ethanol use." I've heard this too. So i was never convinced the walbro were perfect little gems to begin with. Thats why I had no problems deciding to give This is the "fake" walbro pump a go as well http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GSS341-Type-340L-H-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Skyline-GTR-RB20-RB25-RB26-R32-R33-R34-/110983052442?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d71afc9a&_uhb=1 They claim 340L/PH. I"m not sure if anyone has verified it. I did get a genuine 255 too. Didn't notice any difference in the way the car ran between the two. Anyway I will think about cleaning the injectors, or possibly buy another set for not much more than clean. Boost is staying low for now. Can anyone extract any data out of the spark plugs? Red spark plugs? hmmm.

Yea I'm after a 5 stud spare as well if anyone is selling. Wouldn't pay more than $20 for it though. MUST be holding pressure cos I already have 2 that dont. Syd. Will pickup.

My bad. Im used to having a location under my avatar. I'm in syd. cant i just try clean them myself? plenty of youtube vids on this.

Alright. how much does that cost? Recomendations on a place? if cleaning and testing is almost half the price of new injectors I may as well get new ones.

I agre, but why do so many people, even for basic stage 1 mods list to change out the factory pump for a 255? I've seen people reporting running out of fuel with a walbro at less than than the power you guys are quoting. I wouldn't be surprised if its a downgrade over the stock, especially when considering the sizes of them but Im always told no the walbro is better. I'm also not saying I disagree with you guys that maybe a bigger pump wont solve my issue, but If a car is pining the first thing you think of is its running lean. So I thought get more fuel in there.. The walbro did nothing to help my pinging issues, but then again it could be flowing less than stock and in addition my stock may have been stuffed. The fuel filter has been changed about 5 months ago. I will do it again though, just in case. The ECU is standard. Standard BOV. I have tried, Fake walrbo 255, and a genuine walbro 255, Car still pings above 9-10PSI or so. Heres else what I've tried so far in addition to the above. -New FPR. Brand new nismo item. I have set the pressure way higher than recommended and it still pings. -Compression test of the engine. All cylinders ~ 147 PSI. I have tried these spark plugs. BCPR5ES BCPR5ES-11 BCPR6ES BCPR6es-11 BCPR7ES-11 BCPR5ES-11 With BCPR7ES-11 the car didn't ping. But that's not surprising as it was abysmally slow. Easily a 130Hp or more drop over the bcpr5es. Car runs best on BCPR5ES-11. Currently have BCPR6ES-11 in there for a safety buffer, even though I prefer the 5s. -Currently running yellow jacket coils. -New coil pack wiring harness. -New AFM. -New CAS. -Fitted bigger intercooler. Whats next? Bigger injectors and Aftermarket ECU and a tune right? But thats many many thousands I shouldn't need to spend just to run a stock car at 10psi. Nor can I. Very frustrating.

The reason is I don't trust myself with electronics and wiring. I am finding the more I touch what doesn't absolutely need to be touched the worse I make the car. It will be the opposite of peace of mind but a complete breakdown. I am fairly sure I will screw something up. Then when I give up and want to go back to stock my oem parts will be butchered, connectors will be broken, wires shortened, I will make a mess, blow stuff up, car will smell on fumes from new wires drilled into thru clips, I will need new wiring harness, oem parts. More money down the drain etc. Actually I plan to do nothing hardcore with the car as of now. Its more so for future-proofing and to possibly solve a hard to kill pinging problem I am having now even at this basic tune level. I know it contrary to general knowledge but I feel like I am not getting enough fuel with one 255 on a mostly stock car, just boosted. With the stock pump it actually pinged less down low, only up high. With the walbro it seems to have flipped and I'm getting massive pinging down low at 2000-3000rpm at 10psi+. I gotta keep the stock boost or the car rattles its head of. And I Have done everything else I can think of to diagnose the problem beside fuel.

I understand they will run better with new wiring, but with two 255 pumps I will have more than enough flow anyway. As long as the stock wires don't burn out I'm happy. Will they if I connect two 255 pumps with the second one connected in parralel (i.e spliced into the wires that feed the first)? My reasoning is The 400LPh pump comes with the same gauge as the stock wiring. So clearly that the stock guage can handle it. If the 400LPH pump draws more than two 255s and the stock guage wiring can handle it, it reasons that two 225s will work on stock wiring as well? No new wires or relays, just the earth mod to the chassis to keep the voltage from dropping to 9V in an R33 and that's it?

Right, so almost touching. Does it LOCK from top to bottom like the fuel pump, or sideways left to right or right to left? Cos I have to do it mostly by feel.

I should have gone for the NISMO or walbro 400LPH too. Instead I got two wlabro 255 pumps a few weeks apart. One is genuine one turned out a copy. Both cost me around $100. The both seem to flow the same :S. I was thinking of running them together, but I was told I cant run dual 255s on stock wiring. Which draws more power, two 255 pumps, or one 400LPH walbro? The nismo runs on stock wiring because it has the damn stock connector. So easy. You think I could sell the two pumps?