sonicz

Yup front wheel bearings. As long as we are talking GTS (2WD models) There is no difference between R32 R33 and R34 front wheel bearings, let alone S1 S2 afaik. The old hubs are off including the control arm and the "new" second hand set went in. I had a creak creak noise when reverse and tapped the brakes which you can hear in the video (its not a virus can upload to youtube if need to) which is now gone with the second hand hubs. BUT The second hand hubs have a bearing problem which you can hear in the sound clip, wub wub wub etc. I am probably going to keep the second hand hubs and control arms just replace the bearings in them. The only other issue I have is heavier steering and and under steer with the new parts in place. Not sure if that's because I told the mechanic to tighten the nuts up real hard.

Nope nothing lights up there on reds. Mine is a one of the frist R33s produced of any kind though, a 1993 model, but it still must have had a bulb for Hicas, correct? Looking under the car the Hicas guts are definitely there.

Well I've got a full thread about it here and no one is replying, but the noise is gone, so it was either the trunion bearings or the hubs because thats all I changed. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423302-had-both-front-hubs-control-arms-replaced-problems-now-worse-no-more-money-diy/ Anyone at least know the torque specs for when I re do the new control arms? Ever since I had the shop put in the second hand ones, the steering feels really tight and I get tons of under-steer like some bolts are too tight and something is not flexing right. I will be ordering new bearings next week and hopefully fitting them next weekend. Thought honestly I have no idea what I'm doing.

Found.

Just need the box, not the snorkel. Sydney please. PM me

I have an aftermarket steering wheel but dont have any hicas light nor can i tell if the hicas is working or not. I have had one back wheel revert to a strange toe setting after a wheel alignment though. and there is a certain sloppiness and jerkiness to the rear wheels. I wonder if the bulb has been pulled from my dash by a previous owner.

Are you guys talking about this sound? Powered by VideoBam - Free Video Hosting Oh and why is there a front wheel drive shaft on a gtst lol

Sydney. Can pick up. Pm me please.

I had what I suspected was worn out/loose bearings on the front of My R33 GTS-T. Instead of opting to have a workshop just replace just the bearings with new items and be done with it, I stupidly I got my hands on a second hand (below) set hoping everything would be ok, It wasn't. http://i47.tinypic.com/2s9qdja.jpg I had them fitted + a wheel alligment and balancing at suspension place. The guy did a good job and its all in there right and the allignment is great like but the second hand hubs are just as bad if not worse than my old ones! So I just blew almost $400 and got nowhere. Here is a recording of what it sounds like in the cabin with the new hubs. http://www.wikiupload.com/0MSF6B8SBCR0Z43 http://yourlisten.com/channel/content/16971467/drugf I have to get this problem fixed as its tugging my wheel left and right, casing vibrations,making noise and I just dont feel happy/safe driving the car. I am fairly certain its the bearings gone. What is the easiest way to fit brand new quality bearings on my car?. I will be doing it with a friend. Hes changed bearings before on a few times on standard cars, Starlet bluebird etc, My original hubs had no ABS sensor holes, but the new ones I replaced them with do. Any difference between the two, for example worth keeping one over the other? I realize I have to plug the hole if I keep the ABS ones. The second hand hub and conrol arm set make the steering wheel little heavier to turn I notice. I was planning on fitting new bearings to my old set and fitting them back in. Is this what I am after and god dangid is there any way to get 2 cheaper, and dangit are they easy to fit? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SKYLINE-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-SET-R32-R33-R34-4WD-MODEL-OEM-NISSAN-/251213901018?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7d83ecda&_uhb=1#ht_953wt_1166 Heres the original problem with the car, in addition to wobbles, But the original hubs had absolutely no noise whilst driving, Powered by VideoBam - Free Video Hosting

Lol I gotta say I have the same thought as wolverine. I find this pretty funny and weird. Its like saying saying you and your GF share a fetish for under body rust protection coating, and you want your missuses car to look like it has it but not the real one done right, just the look of it, so what super cheap auto spray cans will replicate the look. That way, when you show up for a wheel allgnment the mechanic is impressed. Turbos are under the bonnet, so anyone seriously wanting to spend the time to look under the bonnet would have even basic engine knowledge, and when they see its a bone stock engine with a huge compressor housing turbo, it kind of defeats the purpose and is no longer cool, no? Anyway if thats what does it for you, go for it. I understand the feeling of finding it fun to drive a mostly stock car with a big laggy turbo just for the "feel" of it, but I haven't seen somebody purposely set out to do it. Its ussualy more along the lines of *facepalm what have they done do this car lol.

I'm surprised no one has told you this already. Basically the 2 common ways are u can use a Nissan consult cable and hook it up to a laptop with the right program, or you can get the car to go into self diagnostic mode and spit out the code via flashing lights I would have lent you my consult but Im in syd. But the second flashign light method method is just as easy Search for the Service manual online, or have a look at this thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them That should be enough.

I recently changed my drive belts and now when the AC turns of at around 4000rpm and back on at 3000rpm it sounds like a massivley loud cricket as the AC engages. I wonder if this is doing any damage as it never happened before. Belts too tight too loose? Does yours do it with the air con set to off as well?

14:32 Did the commentator say 60 miles an hour in 1.2 seconds referring to the GTR lol

Ok so I pour nothing in there, but I have to seal up the hole obviously before fitting them? Otherwise debris will get inside as there is a spinning cog linked to the wheel bearing inside.

Thanks for the info. I got these to replace my parts, a direct swap, they are of a 96 gts-t, but my car, also a gts-t has no abs. Can they still be fitted without problems? Does that hole lead to the bearings? I want to pour some lubricant in in there. Not made for bearings but for bike chains etc. it has mos2 in it and i find it works well.

I noticed there is a hole that leads to hub mechanism inside. Can I fill them with a liquid lubricant, Something like liquid MOs2 (molybdenum disulfide). What connects to that hole?

The code is stored in memory. you dobt have to catch it the second the light flashes.

Thx for the info. The issue ive noticed is even on 18 my ac switches on and of every 30 seconds or so when the sensor is plugged in. without the sensor it stayed on. btw nice looking skyline. I kind of regret spraying my skyline boot badge black aka series 2 color coded. the white plastic makes the car look more elegant

Those red $2 dollar shop quality coil packs could be the issue. Yellow jackets, spitfires, or OEM coils are your best bet. Looks like you should get a new coil pack wiring harness too.

I got an R33 Skyline. I was running the AC with the wire that goes to what I assume is the cabin temperature sensor in the dash unplugged (the mic looking port behind the windscreen wiper switches) and I noticed the AC no longer clicks on and of but rather stays on. Normally when everything is plugged in properly my AC will click on and off every 30 seconds or so, even when set to 18 degrees, and I'm still hot. Just wondering if its ok to leave that wire unplugged. I also remember reading a few other people having on/off clicking ACs as well.

I've been using yellow jackets for a about a year and havent had a probelm with them. When doing the research I actually came accross of lot of guys who said they have had spitfires fail on them, or had problems etc, but nothing negative about the yellowjackets, so I deceid to go with them even though I could afford the spitfires. If you actually look at a yellow jacket carefully you can see the coils and contacts are very high quality and they are not messing about like the cheap chinese red ones, which i have also seen and used and they are horrible. Thats said there was nothing wrong with my stock ones. They wroked flawlessly. I just felt they were old. I sold all 6 for a measly $90 kind of regret it now.

Ok guys after taking out the turbo timer and immoboliser, the problem is still exactly the same, which is a shame because now those units have to go back in and it was all for nothing. Scotty nm35, The fuel pump is this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Performance-Fuel-Pump-Skyline-RB20-RB25-R32-R33-R34-/120568439688?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c12706388 The relay used is the same as the stock unit. Only the bracket had to be really modded. GTR nation, the old fuel pump DID make a whining loud whining noise, the new one does not. Have not monitored fuel pump volatge when this happens. Would need some kind of digital data logger as it may take as long as a day to turn of and you cant keep your eyes glued to the multimeter. I am going to try a new MAF unit next but its very frustarting. Should have taken firestorms advice but it may end up doing the same thing with a new maf. Guess it was the easiest thing to try first though.

thx guys. if its a maf problem will the fault be logged? no fault codes came up on ecutalk. guess first step to take the turbo timer out.

Go to your exhaust and smell it. does it smell like burning oil or fuel? have you been checking your dipstick too see if you are loosing more oil than before the problem occured?

Some days it will drive for hours with no problem. Other times it will shut of 4-5 times in the space of a minute. There is no warning when this happens and you literally do not know 1 second beforehand. There is a very slight engine stumble sometimes but 99% of the time you cannot regain it even if you floor it, it acts like a kill switch. You can shift to neutral and restart the car. It may drive for hours or switch of 1 second after you restart it. What I have done so far. Replaced fuel pump and fuel filter with brand new units Changed spark plugs and checked coils. Checked some vacuum lines Cleaned MAF sensor CHanged Crank angle sensor (its a the black plastic unit from a R34 with the half moon because its a late series 2 aka series 3) The car is fitted with both an immoboliser and turbo timer. I suspect these may be a culprit. Any common fault I should check before I pull these out? The car is a late 1998 R33 gts-t.