sonicz

why do you need 2000s on an evo :S? lol

I only ask because on that ebay link i read "Kit is drop in fit for the following vehicles with no modifications needed to install. The injectors sold in balanced sets to insure cylinder per cylinder horsepower equalibrium. The injectors are high impedance which will work perfectly with your factory ECU:

Very nice. Thanks for this. Is there a version that bolts as easily into an S1 r33 gtst-t running the stock ecu? i didn't know you could use 750cc injectors without an aftermarket ecu.

Can anyone give me some info if having a 33 GTR front kit on a 33 gtst will affect the way you can fiit one?

You probably splashes some around when you were filling up the radiator. Have a proper look in the day. If you really do have a leak stop driving the car.

Not really worried about NVH, just hate clunkiness and poor handling. The adjustable camber arms are just solid pieces of metal with rubber bushes on one end that bolt to the chassis end, not rose joined? I can get these for as low as $200 for a pair to do both front sides, I believe bushes cost around this much anyway and a PITA to change yourself at home. This is why I was asking if these units will help out making the car feel newer/better. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-Front-Upper-Camber-Arms-/130793547716?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e73e727c4&_uhb=1 Thankyou for getting those torque specs. I too was unable to find the service manual for the r33, but easily for the 34, However, I assume all the torque specs would be the same between the 34 and 33? To be honest I am going to need to ask a mehcanic which bolts are which. I am not sure which bolts they are reffering to. I would much rather they had a diagram with arrow pointing to the bolts and the torque specs.

I hope your using high performance poop.

My timing is jumping about all over the place so I need to be able to test if the new unit solves it. I can do it on the spot in 5 minutes. Sydney only. Its going to go in an S1 RB25DET R33 GTS-T skyline, so Im after the metal cas. The S2 ones are the same too except for late S2s.

Whirte GTS-T, You seem very knowledgeable so I'll ask you for some advice if you don't mind. Recently blew almost $400 by paying a shop to change my upper control arms (the car came out worse at the end). Because it had a noise, we agreed he would tighten the f**k out of the bolts. The steering now feels very hard to turn, and cornerning is difficult, (but the noise is gone) you really have to battle the car steering wheel get it to go around a corner whereas before it was peppy and loved to turn in. I am not sure if the second hand control arms are just stiffer/shitter or its because he tightened everything too hard, but I want to re do all the bolts. Do you happen to know the torque settings for the bolts around there? Secondly, when I'm changing the bearings It will be a good time to fit adjustable camber arms. Just curious how badly do the stock camber control arm bushes get worn here because I am perfectly happy with my current -1.7 front camber with the stock arms, so I would be changing them just to replace the worn bushes. These bushes here. Here are the stock arms out Sure those bushes will not cause much trouble even if they are stuffed? Worth going to a set of new adjustable control arms like the orange ones in the pic just for the sake of those new rubber bushes? Frankly I'm more concerned about the bushes in the upper control arms themselves where the camber arms link up but I have NFI how one would replace those...

How is the paint on that car so devoid of orange peel? Has it been wet sanded and buffed back again?

I was under the impression bigger injectors don't really work as well as smaller ones for low end power or the lower rpm range? Something about the spray pattern no being as uniform and misty with the bigger ones. Just how low can you go with 1000c injectors if you don't have big mods or big power but want to future proof.

In L D, power setting

Ok even though my car is pinging, I set my car to stockish boost and took some dodgy videos to show you how the automatic transmission and throttle is the biggest factor in what RPM an the car develops positive pressure. In D, on snow start setting, full boost can come as early as 2000rpm. In L setting, gear one, and "power" setting the engine may reach around 5000rpm before the gauge show you full boost. It Depends on how much throttle you give it as well. 3/4 is different to full. Unfortunately I am capped so it will takes ages to upload What are you reading the boot pressure off? Just to let you the stock boost gauge measures in mmhg (millimetres of mercury) and not psi.

Don't forget with an auto the transmission is not always directly engaged with the engine, so what rpm postive pressure comes depends largely on how much throttle you are applying. Don't expect much boost with the stock auto boost controller anyway.

Man I don't mind slip on if its hub centric and properly symmetrical. My impression was this is what they will fit. Thanks for pointing me to Gktech! I found these http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4-5x114-3-10mm-hub-centric-slip-on-spacers.html That's all I friggin need Don't need the ones with the studs. Ordering on Monday. Though I don't know what exactly "on back order" means in terms of how long till I get them Maybe I should just go for the 15mm ones in stock and hope I don't need to flare the guards. I'll have a wider track.

Really appreciate the offer man, but I think I'll have to wrap it up all in the same day. I'll probably take to to a suspension place nearby to get them pressed. If anything changes I'll let you know You have a press at home ?

I wonder if it improves the drag coefficient of the car? Compared to my previous car, My R33 stops like a plastic bag when I pop the car in neutral at high speeds. I might around look for one, as mine didnt come with it.

Its a good idea to ask around IMO as some places will rip you of or worse not do the job right if they see you aren't very knowledgeable. I'll take 500hp up on that RB mechanic offer as well. I need a few issue/minor upgrades sorted with my car. I'd love to work on my own car but I don't really have the place or tools to do it at the moment. About your coolant, go super-cheap and buy ready to pour premixed light green coolant. Any brand. Seriously your more scared of mixing coolant than running out of it ? . Nothing bad will happen mixing it, or even not flushing your coolant for ages, but running out of coolant bad stuff happens. It is probably the least sensitive fluid in the car as long as you have it in there. Its not like oil which IS important and not to leave for 20,000km... You coolant doesn't break down or change properties over time like oil, and even if it does water is a better conductor of heat than coolant anyway. Even if you have just water in there and everything rusts it will still work for decades because the rust will form a protective barrier of scale against leaks lol. Ive found in the past if you flush a rusted coolant system you can have problems but leave it alone and it just keeps going. Anyway, good luck. The bugs in your radiator etc, are next to a non issue. Unless you have entire birds or chickens stuck in there it will work just fine. You can clean it yourself to a fair degree at one of those car wash places or with a brush. Oh I think I've got a fair bit of good coolant left if you cant get yourself to buy it lol.

Thanks, man. I think that was the mistake I was making running it in my head. I'll follow the hoses tommorow. You don't know the size of the standard Nissan fuel lines there so I know what size adapter to buy? Is an adapter and a fuel gauge what most people do to read their fuel pressures?

So then the line in green here? I don't get how a gauge can go in the "supply line to the reg" though, i.e what you said in the brackets. If you do that, aren't you measuring the fuel pressure from the pump, before the FPR, instead of after? Any idea what size the standard nissan fuel lines pipes circled are? I already have a 100psi fuel gauge. So something like this and two clamps would do the trick then? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-2-BILLET-ALLOY-INLINE-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTOR-FITTING-/110769678546?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ca6328d2

Just wondering what sort of fuel reg you have and how you have it set up including how your reading the pressure? I got a nismo FPR in mine and my car keeps pinging over 9psi so I assume its running lean, unless I up the fuel pressure real high, in which case it runs like a dog below 4000rpm. Getting a new fuel pump these days as I have the stocker in there too. Still not sure which fuel line I need to splice to read the pressure (R33 GTST)

I am not talking about the entire door trim, just the soap sized plastic surround around the handle. You can pop that of 100%. From there you should be able to tug on the open door and unlock mechanism cables

Thanks to for reminding me what a POS my car is compared to others Looking forward to a bigger turn out next time.

You be surprised. I've asked the mechanics I know in the past if they have a press for bushings and stuff and none of them did. Also I would need them open on a Saturday.

Its almost certainly the alt belt. I replaced my belts with shorter than recommended (845 instead of 855) brand new gates belts, the tensioner is almost at maximum adjustment, and its still squealing. Its like Nissan makes super slippery pulleys.