sonicz

I doubt you will get much improvement if you change tyres alone. Most of the time I find its because people have way to much negative camber on the wheels, so your car is only gripping on a 20c piece of rubber instead of the full width.

Would a small amount of almost inaudible knock do much damage to an engine before you notice it and make adjustments? I may doubt that as Almost ever day I hear a few family runabout cars and cop cars probably running on the cheapest fuel they can get knocking like crazy when they give power and they never seem to break.

Set post processing in the options to 0, that will get rid of all blur.

Never expected to see this thread on sau but I play the game every now and then. If you can build a good mech or know where to find good builds online then you can expect to have some fun otherwise you will have no chance just be obliterated. The best mech at the moment is a highlander 733C with two PPCs and an AC5 + Ultra AC5. Just jump up in the air, and pop all weapons at the same time. Repeat. I go on the North America Teamspeak server too na1.mech-connect.net, a lot of regulars play as well as a handful of Aussies.

Thankyou guys. I just got under the car and saw the big bolt with box pattern at the bottom. Thats easy to get to but wont be needing that one.. Will I be able to just as easily get to the left side filler bolt without needing any special equipment? Just a car jack and stands? Can anyone recommend an oil that will make the car easier to change direction, if thats even a thing people do with old Viscous diffs...

The only thing I can think of is he didn't remove all the old fluid. How did you remove the old oil anyway? I don't see a drain bolt looking at the diff from the back. Only the one in the middle of the diff.

Damn 1.5L. Thanks for confirming. Time to go back to him. How could he only used 800ml? Maybe he filled it using the middle bolt instead of higher up. No it doesn't have the fins so its not an A-LSD. Is the diff permanently damage now?

Engines moves around way too much even with all the bolts in place.

A few months ago I Bought 2x 1L of LS90 diff oil from repco. I took it to my mechanic to change the diff oil for the first time since owning the car sicne I figured its in need of it. The mechanic Gave me back one full 1L bottle, and the second used bottle still had about 200ml left. In other words the mechanic said all it took was 800ml. I was dubious but I went with it as he said he filled proplerly. After a short while I noticed a drastic change in the way the car turns especially under acceleration. It heavily pushes wide whereas previously it used to tuck itself into the apex very easily. The green line is how the car used to behave before the fluid change, and the red line is after. If I accelerate in the rain in a straight line on a flat road the car begins to spin out by turning right. Ditto under engine braking in the rain. The diff has many Ks on it, but I wonder, why did it seem to be working better for me before the fluid change? I did not use any additives. Almost forgot, the car is a 1993 R33 GTS-T, as far as I know it does not have the A-LSD.

I did a similar boo boo to you. I replaced my control arms with used ones, paid $450 for the lot and lesson learned never go second hand they are worse than mine. The fact yours keeps breaking so early may be because you have some additional stress on the bearing thats wearing it out way too fast. Make sure all other suspension components are in proper order and aligned correctly, and use only genuine nissan bearings. By the way is there a guide to change the FRONT bearings on a GTS-T? The rear bearings are piss easy but the front look crazy hard. I would appreciate that.

Some people get 600km to a tank. Thats not bad. I only get about 400 but thats because the auto is slipping and the stock ECU is probably running the car rich these days due to old equipment.

Only the R34s have em, so yea its ok to run the car without them. Though its better to fit some as it keeps the rest of your AC system clean and working more efficiently. If there was a way to retrofit some filters in my R33 I would do it but I haven't found any info on that.

Wouldn't hurt to machine your discs and try another set of shims too.

Yea plumb it back and it should keep vacuum/boost distortion to a minimum. Probably enough to solve your problem. You will probably get better fuel economy too.

Why dont you stick a boroscope in each cylinder and see whats going on in there?

Cant help but I'll be interested to see what it turns out to be since I've been having a similar problem for about 6 months now. My 25det never used to use up any oil then suddenly over night it started to emmit a dry burnt smell from the exhaust constantly at idle accompanied by a tiny amount of smoke under boost. But this adds up to about loosing 1L of oil in 1000k. Did a compression test all 6 were 150psi, but my battery was dying and when i done it with a new battery it got close to 170. Some mechanics said its probably oil control rings but no way I have the money for a rebuild on a guess. Normal tiny amount of oil in intercooler pipes as well. Does it with any oil, but obviously slightly less with thicker oil. no mods or catch cans stock oil pump

Switching from a luxury 4 door sedan to a Skyline I could never have guessed how much it influences peoples behaviour around you. As soon as they get a glimpse of the car 50% of drivers gun their cars. Its flapping annoying, especially since I have no interest in racing them and just want to drive economically. And I'm not talking sports cars, no, I mean ANY car they are in. Even young girl drivers or middle aged men that are in Barinas or Getz. I find wherever I go in Sydney except the CBD I get people tailgating me, then overtaking me or accelerating hard off the lights if they are in another lane next to me. My car is a piece of shit so but its got a 400R kit with deepish 19in rims so I guess from far it looks quick. I blame the Fast and Furious movies. I wish the skyline was a niche car for people that appreciate it, not something to be bought for scraps and trashed by every dickhead that buys it. I know a few wreckers and you wouldn't believe the amount of accident damaged skylines I see. At least 5 a week and most are R33s.

Why don't you do the HICAS computer short circuit trick. It was just shorting 2 pins with a wire in the Boot. No need to remove the bulb either and it solved all the HICAS issues from memory. I can look it up for you if you don't know what I'm referring to.

People get away with a lot less than $2500 to replace a clutch, and for just above stock power levels even the cheapest clutch would last long enough for me and would certainly be a lot better than the mess you are in if your auto box is not working right. An auto box rebuild is the same 3k+ cost no matter what and most people either replace them with another used box that also has the original clutches, or scrap the car. Point is almost nobody touches an auto, its just driven till it dies. IMO Manuals are just simpler, work better, hold more power, deliver more power, are better on fuel, have a lower chance of slipping, and are cheaper to fix if something goes wrong, and any mechanic can do it. Most used cars that are manuals seem to have no slipping for the power the car comes with. It rare to see, and I see a lot of used cars, and if its there it just means the clutch has not been replaced for a while. Whereas in autos I see slipping clutches all the time. Most people don't feel it because there is still partial engagement. Slipping is pretty obvious on a manual, most people just know to replace the clutch and they actually do it. In autos its almost unheard to do anything to it, so it doesn't even cross peoples minds. Not to mention clutches are serviceable items on a manual, whereas in an auto they are not. How many clutches have been replaced on a manual compared to an auto, even if we account for the difference in automatic vs manual cars? I personally don't know a single person that has even changed the oil in their automatic, let alone change the clutch plates, whereas almost everyone I know with a manual cars has had their clutch changed at some point. The only place I see people doing anything to automatic gearboxes are the odd forums users that are cashed up and chasing power for the drag strip. On top of this if you have a friend or know how to do the work yourself, its feasible to buy a $500 clutch and fit it yourself. An auto box needs pixies and fairy's to be serviced i.e its almost impossible to do yourself, nor would you want to. Gee that sounded like a rant didnt it. Sorry! Anyway, just for future reference, when I fit a new auto box, can you tell me the best place to get my hands on a shift kit and who to take it to to have it fitted in Sydney?

People get away with a lot less than $2500 to replace a clutch, and for just above stock power levels even the cheapest clutch would last long enough for me and would certainly be a lot better than the mess you are in if your auto box is not working right. An auto box rebuild is the same 3k+ cost no matter what and most people either replace them with another used box that also has the original clutches, or scrap the car. Point is almost nobody touches an auto, its just driven till it dies. IMO Manuals are just simpler, work better, hold more power, deliver more power, are better on fuel, have a lower chance of slipping, and are cheaper to fix if something goes wrong, and any mechanic can do it. Most used cars that are manuals seem to have no slipping for the power the car comes with. It rare to see, and I see a lot of used cars, and if its there it just means the clutch has not been replaced for a while. Whereas in autos I see slipping clutches all the time. Most people don't feel it because there is still partial engagement. Slipping is pretty obvious on a manual, most people just know to replace the clutch and they actually do it. In autos its almost unheard to do anything to it, so it doesn't even cross peoples minds. Not to mention clutches are serviceable items on a manual, whereas in an auto they are not. How many clutches have been replaced on a manual compared to an auto, even if we account for the difference in automatic vs manual cars? I personally don't know a single person that has even changed the oil in their automatic, let alone change the clutch plates, whereas almost everyone I know with a manual cars has had their clutch changed at some point. The only place I see people doing anything to automatic gearboxes are the odd forums users that are cashed up and chasing power for the drag strip. On top of this if you have a friend or know how to do the work yourself, its feasible to buy a $500 clutch and fit it yourself. An auto box needs pixies and fairy's to be serviced i.e its almost impossible to do yourself, nor would you want to. Gee that sounded like a rant didnt it. Sorry! Anyway, just for future reference, when I fit a new auto box, can you tell me the best place to get my hands on a shift kit and who to take it to to have it fitted in Sydney?

Thanks. Yea my guards are rolled now. But 255s 19 35 fit without problems on mine, even before the guard rolls, why did you choose to go 235 on the front? How did 235s on the front and 275s on the rear change the balance of the car? R33s are already understeery enough, did it cause it to under-steer even more? Now that I got my guards rolled, my aim is to fit 265s on the front and 285s on the rear. Wondering how feasible that is. Though I will probably needs some chassis reinforcement. I already have a front strut brace but its not enough. The 20yr chassis is not fearing too well and it bends and rolls all over the place. I fitted a rear strut bar, but all that did is decrease rear grip and increase oversteer which I hate so I took it out. I told my mechanic to tighten all the chassis and suspension bolts but I think he "tightened the f**k" out of them and now steering wheel is really heavy and fights you going around corners like it just wants to straighten up. Silly move as now I think they all need to be re-torqued, and no one work shop knows the torque specs, at least not without charging half the cost of the car to do it.

Can you fit this on a R33 gtst? Have you had any body work done? Whats your offset? I wanted to run this size but was told the biggest I could fit was 255s, which is what I have in there now, but its an unusual size and harder to find tyres.

Have you tried going to 0.8mm copper plugs? Something like NGK BCPR6ES. Getting new coils is always a good idea. The fact that your problem arises when the car is warm points to a coil fault. I recommend yellowjackets over spitfires simply because I have never heard of anyone having problems with them and they have been fantastic in my car.

Maybe, I am not really familiar with the s15 boxes. But my observations have always been that gearboxes suffer the most stress and damage when they are suddenly shocked with lots of torque in a small space of time. The sr20 engine doesn't really fit into this category, even with a turbo. Sure torque output on an turbo s15 can be high, but its usually up high and once the clutch engages and everything starts building momentum the stress on components is much more linear and manageable. Driving like an idiot is not accounted for of-course. That's why you get lots of broken drive train components and mounts because people are dumping the clutch on wide after-market wheels with grippy tires and high output engines on cars that were never designed to handle that kind of abuse.

Yea figured. Seems crazy people spend 3-4k on Auto rebuilds though. Manual conversion would be much better and cheaper unless you have a thing for unreliable transmissions that cost you power and fuel. I guess I will drive drive gingerly along at 5psi. Too broke to do otherwise. Actually the transmission shifts smoothly and works well if if you dont exceed about 6psi and I guess about 200HP which is what I estimate the engine puts out at that psi. Whats to say if I buy another used auto transmission it wont be in a similar condition to mine? Theres no way to tell the condition of the clutch plates. I guess thats why I always find it weird people just take for granted the Nissan turbo boxes are tough and can handle power well when my experience with every Auto box I have ever owned has been lousy. And its always the same problem. Worn clutch plates that cant hold power.... People just don't change Auto trans fluid and they just drive it till it dies or sell it to a sucker like me just before it busts.