sonicz

Makes sense. Will replace fuel filter soon and run injector cleaner first to see if it makes a difference. Yes Blackers, they are factory injectors. I got spare injectors off ebay in case I need to replace mine, but they came in a lot worse condition than I expected. They are of an R33 RB25DET and I believe they are 370cc ones, though I don't know what year they are off. Can anyone tell me if the plastic claw on the end is necessary so I don't make a new thread about it? As most of them are broken on the ones I bought. If they dont do anything I will rip the rest off just to even it out.

The past week my RB25DET has been developing a problem where for the first few seconds of being started it would not be firing on all 6 cylinders properly. Its getting to the point where it does it for 2-3 minutes after being started. Some days it works fine from cold. And some days it does it on a warm engine, but eventually clears up, and quicker if the engine is warm. It works great afterwards. Something I've also noticed, when I pulled the dip-shit to check the oil level, the oil that came out smelled of unburnt fuel, though that could be a a separate issue as my car is going through more oil than it should so I could have broken rings in the pistons, which would cause this even if the car was working normally. Compression is fine at 155psi, and that was cranking on a weak battery. My guess is its something like coil packs (1 year old yellowjackets), bad wiring or broken/stuck open injectors, but I thought Id ask if anyone has any more to add to it. I will be checking the spark plugs but as usual my bet is they will be clean. I also have a smell of fresh fuel that surrounds the car even when I just prime it on reds, so I probably need to get to the fuel rail and check injector seals. But I have no idea how to get to the bolts that are underneath the stock intake manifold to get to the injectors.

Fair enough. I'm still gonna try another brand though just for the sake of it. Looks like I'll order those big one from Japan. THEY ARE BIG IN JAPAN. After I fit it this will play out of my Exhaust http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qutOSFit5Z8

To answer most peoples question, I guess I Just don't see any good reason to like Ryco or believe they are any good. The fact most people use them doesn't say anything about the actual product to me. So not a fan. In fact I have seen reasons not to like them. Here is one example http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/415000-oil-and-fuel-filters-which-ones-are-not-now-made-in-you-know-where/ I cant see how the exact opposite of that isn't true. Its an easy to service important part of a vehicle. Why not change it? Actually most people that check the inside of their fuel filters find a barrage of dirt and crap inside them. See the thread above. Different car, same build up.

So its time to replace the fuel filter on the skyline again and I'm not a fan of the Ryco stuff. Obviously I will be getting a Z32 filter for larger filtration, but has anyone had any experience with either of these? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skyline-GTS-T-Uprated-High-Flow-Fuel-Filter-FREEPOST-/160246942699?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item254f764beb Lets read " Uprated High Flow, High Performance Filter If you are running a tuned GTS-T engine you need one of these high flow, high capacity, Japanese made, Fuel Filters. Hesitation under acceleration can often be a blocked or inadequate fuel filter. Cars running higher horsepower will benefit from the larger capacity reservoir of the fuel filter which means there is more fuel reserve to call on under wide open throttle conditions near maximum revs. This is the same reason to change to a larger capacity fuel rail, but this filter is an inexpensive and worthwhile alternative until you actually need one." OR this one made by an Australian company http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Quality-Fuel-Filter-Z202-Suitable-For-/251372626532?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&fits=Plat_Gen%3AZ32&hash=item3a86f9e264

You are most definitely right about that too. If I brake hard enough in a straight line it will actually change the alignment of my front. The steering wheel will be pointing slightly differently and the feeling of "load" on the steering wheel will be shifted. My suspension doesn't hold alignment from the 3-4 alligments I've done either. I think 1-2mm off. There is also a vagueness to the steering. I did replace the outer tie end rods but that didn't do much. What it did do is carry the slight wobbles to the steering wheel more while driving, until about 6 months passed and I guess the new tie end rods wore out again. I also suspect I have a bearing issue which may be wearing out components I put in faster, like the tie end rods. I took it to my mechanic to replace them ( bearings) but he wobbled the wheel around with his hands and said its fine don't waste your money so I sort of gave up (still have the bearings and some control arm bushes but places like pedders want a fortune to fit them). Point yes probably most of the steering and suspension is a mess. But that doesn't change the fact the body also wobbles excessively after the suspension has transferred its force. Someone else in the family also has a low km R33 and thats so much tighter. I feel like even if I change all my bushes, the body will still slop. So I though id start with some minor bracing I can get my hands, even though i know the bushes have to be done at some point too. You guys say bracing wont do much, but I figure solid pieces of steel bolted to crucial parts of the chassis that normally flex and deform, will do something rather than nothing. It has to. I cant imagine a under-body or fender brace, or trunk brace is going to stretch or flex much , but I I can imagine that a long ass 4-5 metre long chassis un-braced will.

I don't think I have those hole predrilled though but will check tomorrow. Mine is a series 1 GTS-t let alone series 3 GTR lol. If they are not pre-drilled I wonder how hard it would be to drill them in and prevent rust? Certian models of the s15...hmm? I guess I'll post in the WTB section and look around on ebay and maybe some wreckers.

Sorry I missed this. Its probably the most relevant post in this thread to me. So you are saying that brace bar that runs accross the very back of the boot comes standard on all S15s and I can find one by looking for S15 wrecks and it will fit a ECR33 chassis?

Thats not really the approach I can tak as it seems really difficult to come across some of these items let alone everything. I was hoping to find used bits here and there I can just bolt to the car for cheap, and to be honest I had my heart set on a multi point underbody brace the most. Definitely no roll cages and intrusive bars in the cabin. So far just getting the tension rod bar and STILL looking for a fender brace but cant find one. Yup that makes a lot of sense. I have seen wreckers selling parts or even throwing away body parts like this so I figured it would be a cheap exercise. I was wrong. I'm comparing my 33 to almost every other car I have driven, and it just creaks and bends and wobbles on driveways and over bumps. The chassis feels like its made of halumi cheese. It takes seconds for the body to finish reacting to a bump. I Have driven other R33s and they feel very stiff and taught in comparison. Mine must've had a hard life since the previous owner lived in a rural area so probably many wobbly up down roads, and my driveway is on a funny sideways diagonal angle making the car softer each time I drive in and out. Subframe collars probably did your car a lot of good. Mine is stock in that regard, but I do have some poly bushes and a strut bar. Have a look at what this Japanese owner says about the body. "3. Usual used GT-R's body have come loose. The parts to tighten such a loosen-body are available at HKS-Kansai. These are the photos of my R33 GT-R, showing the body reinforcement parts, I installed the "refresh-bar" of HKS-Kansai. This parts is very good to reinforce the body. This refresh-bar is designed for not making sacrifices for daily use of the car." http://www.geocities.jp/r33gtruser/usedgtr.html Also have a look at what nissan did with the next few cars they built after the 33 and 34. Look at all the chassis bracing on a stock 350z. http://youtu.be/aG6X72FS6gc?t=20m48s The 33 is listed there but not really sure how you order from there. I was hoping somebody has these bits used in AUS.

I guess it depends how anal the owner wants to be and what car the fuel is being run in. Shelf life on normal non ethanol fuel from what research I have done is about 6-12 months without any dramas. I've used 95-98 octane fuel that has been over 3 years old without any problems in the past. No pinging or power loss and certainly no "BANG". I have a friend that goes overseas and he has a car that sits in a garage that at some point had 5 year old fuel in the tank. He just cranked it and drove. That said, if you car is tuned to an inch of its life and detonation, I wouldn't want the few to change even a fraction of a %. Though that 2 week story is a bit absurd IMO especially when you realise the fuel is not made to order for you at the petrol station pump.

Its hard to say without seeing what suspension you have fitted, yours may have adjustable coil overs, so if they are adjustable you can try setting a bit higher. I believe the stock height is 410F/400R. Your going to have to go to a suspension shop or get someone in the know how to adjust it for you. The R33 GTR Is quiet a meaty looking car, so its hard to make it look jacked up, I wouldn't worry about going up a bit. If it doesn't have adjustable height then your going to need to buy some adjustable coil overs. Its rubbing because you probably have 19in wheels and the tyre is scraping along the inside fender and plastic guards. I had the same thing happening with my 19in until I got the guards rolled.

Since the GTR body is different I would hate to risk and it buy something not confirmed to work on a GTS. That link you provided just shows me a strut brace for the GTR? Im after stuff like this as well

Ok gys I've decided to start off with i will just go for -Fender brace -Floor brace (behind front seats) -Tension rod bar (easy to find) Not sure where I will get them from or what brand but hopefully I end up finding something. Ultimately though The bracing I want to get most done was something to prevent Flex along the horizontal axis dead smack in the middle of the car, so thats why a multi point underbody brace would have been perfect, but I have yet to find one for a GTS. Do you guys know what these braces are called and where to get them

I'm no expert but with the right rims even a stock height GTR does not look "jacked up" Something like this looks good and would be practical, but I guess it depends on what suspension mods and body kit you have to get any real answer.

Ok but more importantly where do you buy them from. http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/gacchiri/index.html Also I'm not sure where you found a Lower rear under-body brace for the GTS? Are you sure its not for the GTR like this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ULTRA-RACING-6-PT-REAR-LOWER-UNDERBODY-SIDE-BRACE-BAR-93-98-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-/200850930272

Yea maybe the bushes are $120 each but theres over 8 sets of them, and you need to pay someone to fit them. Thats over $2000 there easy. Most braces I can just buy and bolt on myself or with the help of a friend, and theres only a few of them. Even if I could change ALL bushes I still want to stiffen the chassis up first. Thats the order I want to do things in right now. Yup funny that you mention it, but my door permanently scrapes the bottom and has to to be forced up about 1cm before it closes properly. It happened right after a buffoon mechanic jacked up the car really high on one side, so I guess he permanently bent the chassis. Just goes to show how soft the body can get. Yes I have posted that before if anyone is wondering. Yes all 3 wheels are really that high off the ground even though it looks like the rear could be touching, its FAR from the floor. You are right I will want to do it regardless of other peoples opinion because I decided to already. To be fair I never came here asking for thoughts on if it would make a difference, just what items are available for the car . The fact it made a difference to your celica is good to hear. Bracing certainly works, especially on old cars with old chassis. Even new cars that have a much stiffer chassis altogether use bracing bits. Its a shame no one makes a mutli point harness for the GTS. I don't know if you are joking about adding a massive steel piece to the car and add a few 100kg lol. I'm not sure how much a suspension shop would charge welding up something on the fly but I'm sure it would be a fair amount more than bolt on bits. Anyway as you can probably see in the pic I've had the strut braces for a while now. I'm after any more bits of metal I can attach to the car.

If I'm honest cant really say I'm convinced they don't much much. I.e I still want to go head. Was told a front strut brace alone wouldn't make a huge difference either but when I fitted it it was a MASSIVE change to the characteristics of the chassis and the whole cars behaviour as well. Anyway can someone tell me if the CUSCO TENSION ROD BAR BRACE would interfere with any future bracing, if not I will go ahead and get one to start things off.

Cant really say yes or no to that for an unknown brand and condition for that price. Maybe for $50 I'd buy it on a whim.

Already have a front strut brace, but I know someone who may want it. What brand is it.

Well they are better than nothing, especially if the rest of your car is looser than a fresh one due to wear. I would start buying the parts but want to know if anyone makes a multi point under-body brace. Reason I made this thread is I don't want to start buying parts and then find out they are incompatible with each other, i.e they bolt onto the same location, so I just want a list of the stuff to get. "Minor" difference is good enough to me. Like I said the driveway has had its toll and I want to give it more support. Use the back seats from time to time so no roll cages.

Looking for any thing that can be bolted to the car to make the structure mode rigid that people may have for sale. Fender Brace, Tension rod bar brace, multi point under-body chassis brace, strut braces etc. I'l' consider most if price is right. Sydney. Can pickup.

I know they aren't where you start but that's what I'm after at the moment. I want some extra structural rigidity in the car anyway since my driveway is on a funny incline and I have to drive the car up diagonally. It twists the chassis enough to make the window frame make popping cracking sounds each time. Is there anything like this for the R33 Stuff like Castor rod bars, castor rod bars etc. Fender brace. I disagrees about them not being the cheapest. The are cheaper than anything else you can do to the car. Parts like this only cost between $30-200 dollars What about one of these. Tension Rod bar. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CUSCO-TENSION-ROD-BAR-BRACE-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTR-BNR32-BCNR33-HNR32-R32-R33-/221150380757?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337d9702d5

Unfortunately I don't have the mechanical skills, or the tools, or a flat driveway, to be able to pull of changing bushes bearings etc on my own at home. I would end up squashed and dead under the car, or mess something up really bad and end up having to pay even more to fix my mistakes, and its my only car to drive around in. For example I don't think I could change the front bearings or steering rack to save my life.

Haha yea thats why I made the right desicision to ask. While that sounds nice in theory to just "go" it doesn't exactly work out so easy when I actually attempt to do it. Unless of-course I blindly walk in to a peddlers type shop and say "Heres $12,000 I hope that's enough for you to change whatever you think is bad", which I cannot afford. I think buying all the bushes alone cost way more than $800 anyway. At the moment I'm looking for chassis bracing. A few hundred bucks and bolt in. I already have changed the radius rod bushes, tie rod ends, and have some adjust camber arms in the rear to correct the camber to around -1 instead of -2 for more traction. I still have some other bushes and bearings I have ready to go in the car, but my general mechanic, I have used for normal stuff like leaks, alt, belts etc, jacked the car up, wobbles the wheels, and tells me its ok even though there are wobbles and clunks and a sloppy feel, so he doesn't sound like he wants to even do the job. The fact is I don't know a single mechanic in Sydney that knows the skyline well and I can trust them to do a simple "refresh" or repairs on the car without worrying they will charge a fortune. For example I think I got quoted $3200 a while ago from a suspension shop to quote a clunk coming from the front end. Came back steering rack replacement + a few bushes. Obviously I didn't take it. Image if I asked them to change EVERYTHING. It would be over $100,000.

I'm just now realising how loose and sloppy my 21yo R33 chassis compared to other cars and want to stiffen it up as much as I can by buying cheap or used bits. What would be the best bang for buck part/s for this? I came across a set of these for $30 But I did not buy them, as I wanted to ask if there are any compatibility issues with other bracing parts that may exist. Does anyone make a multi point chassis brace for the R33? All I have at the moment is Front and rear strut brace so any info on what else to fit on an R33 GTS totalling a few hundred dollars or less would be appreciated. I know if you fit something you cant fit others on the same point. There was also a bar that runs accross the rear of the boot where the tailights are but forgot what that was called.