sonicz

Ok. I didnt put any grease in there. Ive heard its a good idea to put some moly grease in there, enough to swell the boot a bit. These look pretty deflated.

Guys just to clarify I only doubt if they are sitting all the way up into the hole. And I dont understand what you guys mean they need to be threaded up. Using what? The nut provided? What sort of tool is required and how much torque etc. Once the thread went into the hole it was pushed in and the nut wasn't used to bring it any higher up.

They are brand new so I doubt the ball joint is popping. I mean if the rod is inserted all the way up into the hole, not of the ball joint is loose. Cant anybody telll based on the pic if thats how high they need to come up? Here they are out of the car

Didnt touch the alligment bolt and the allignment is fine. WHat do you mean by thread them on? With what? I tried to tighten the nut but it got pretty hard and the rod didnt move up anymore anyway. So you are saying the do need to be greased up? Does the boot need to be swelled up with grease or not?

I put new tie rod ends in with the help of a friend since the old ones were shot (R33 S2 GTST). When I reversed the car out of the driveway afterwards I heard some clanks like something was settling. A day later after driving around I decided to take a look as I wasnt sure if the tie rods were seated proplerly. Do they look they are sitting all the way in the grove or do they need to come up more? My friend fitted them but he did not hammer them in or screw them in, just hand pushed upwards. It was my undertstanding that they either need to be hammered in or threated in by some other means to lock proplery and then you fit the nut. The nut was hand tightened and a split pin fitted. Left side. Right side. Here I put a jack under it to see if they can be further pressed in. I jacked it up a bit with a plank of wood but it didnt move. I did not put much force on the back but it was enough to move the suspension up about 5cm. Do they need to be greased up with a grease gun or do they come pre greased? When I looked inside them I saw some clear red grease so I assumed they came pre greased. The rubber looks kind of deflated, not sure if thats normal. They came with a hole in them for grease and a screw which I screwed in. Check out that rubber scrtech! Doesnt look like the boot will last long.

Bad injector and/or injector o rings caused this problem on my car. If you have the stock inj its probably worth looking into it.

Sold.

Sold

Accidental buy. Listed as R33 bonnet but actually R34. Will trade for R33 bonnet, Series 1 or 2 doesn't matter. Preferably black.

$140. Priced for quick sale. Pickup at Eagle Vale or can bring it to you if you want to trade for an R33 bonnet on the spot. This was an accidental buy as was told it was an R33 bonnet so am in need of an R33 bonnet thus priced to sell fast.

Thx. Pm'ed scotty we'll see what happens but I really am hoping to get the car running again by this weekend. The car has had a fresh fuel smell in thee engine bay sometimes since I got it so hopefully replacing everything will fix that problem too.

Not a fan of the clear position lights. for some reason In my mind an R32 has to have the old school orange position light

I had the exact same issue you are describing, but now #6 cylinder doesn't work at all. It was intermittent until the car warmed up last week. I suspect dead injectors in mine. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/439938-car-firing-on-4-5-cylinders-for-a-few-min-until-it-warms-up-and-smell-of-fuel-in-engine-oil/ Might give you some idea.

Unfortunately I have no reference to go on as the Injector swap will be done on the same day. All i have is the second pair of naked injectors that will be going in. Even the pintle caps are missing from them, but I will be leaving them out. So you are saying I just walk into repco and see what fits by hand? Does anyone know the dimensions and thickness etc? Its of a R33 RB25DET, standard side fed injectors, 370cc I think. The buffers should probably be replaced too while I'm in there IMO, but are u saying maybe I can re use the ones in there already?

I'm going to be swapping out my RB25DET injectors and I need new seals that relate to it. I found this for 15 pounds in the UK, but they are just O rings, and no "insulators" Do I need the insulators? http://www.amazon.co.uk/INJECTOR-SKYLINE-RB25DET-VG30DETT-CYLINDER/dp/B00ATHG5GC OR do I need the fat rubbers called "insulators" that come with the genuine kit? http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-fuel-injector-seal-kit-single-injector-genuine-nissan-200sx-s14-s15-skyline-r33-sr20-rb25-p-1181.html It will cost about $80 just for the seals which seems excessive? Looking to do it this weekend so time is running out to get them.

Yup try the coppers and report back. If your gapping the plugs yourself go for a bit higher to like 0.9mm, or 1.0mm

Yup 16 Psi will definitely hit the "boost cut" of the stock AFM, but I doubt thats his problem as he is able to go WOT in 1st and the problem only arises at the start of 2nd. Man why are u running Iridium plugs with a 7 heat range gapped at 0.8mm? Thats just drowning the motor each way possible. Iridiums suck, and 7 is too cold unless the engine is a heavily tuned race engine which spends most of its liviving at 8000RPM on a racetrack and the stock gap is 1.1mm. Get coppers. Go to 6 heat range. You can stick with 0.8mm to prevent blowout, but you may find you are ok with 1.1 as well. You will get much more, power, economy, efficiency at all RPM. Just watch for pinging and not leaning out the engine when you make the change. I can actually say I speak from 1st hand experience and trial and error on this. Thank me later?

My thoughts are don't go to 0.6mm and you should try brand new coils and new ignitor before doing anything else. The factory gap is 1.1mm and 0.8mm most of the time is enough if you have weakening coils to avoid spark blowout, but running 0.6mm is just crazy imo. You will be loosing power. What heat range plugs you running? Better not go 7 unless you have a race engine.

Ok. Swapped the coil packs around and swapped the spark plugs around. Problem Stayed in cylinder #6 near the firewall. So looks like that injector is stuffed, but I will replace all 6. Can I get someone to confirm that the injectors are compatible between 1993 R33 GTS-T throught to 1998 R33 GTS-T? I have no idea what year RB25DET year the injectors pictured above came out of. I have heard the injectors of the series 1 and series 2 are different. Is this true? Would either year fit in my stock 1993 fuel rail? I dont want to have to open it up to find they dont fit. And can anyone tell me what O rings I need for the pictured above injectors, preferably E85 compatible.

Really? I would imagine the Indian on the other end wouldn't even correctly hear the words you've just said, let alone understand what you mean and be phased by it. Most of the time they have no idea what you are saying and they are not phased by anything, they just will keep telling you to go to start and type run

I've had a few of these. The funniest one I recall was when the Indian guy told me my computer has a virus, he assumed incorrectly that anyone would perceive that as a negative. I didn't I basically decided to do the craziest thing I can thing of and took a pro virus stance. I kept saying things like "Yup I know its infected, so what?" "I know it has a virus, thats the way I like it" "My computer can handle it" After he sat there being stunned at my attitude, he tried another approach and told me my computer was spreading the virus to my neighbours computer. I bassicaly kept saying stuff like "Im very happy to hear that, YEAH YOU GO BOY (to my computer)" and that I was training my PC to fight with other computers. As a last resort he told me that unless I follow their steps to remove the virus I will be sued. I got bored around there and hung up but how I wish I recorded that conversation.

Lol that looks atrocious and the people standing around are probably thinking "Yeah Das it man" Anyway,

Just out of curiosity what is the benefit of adding an aftermarket diff to the GT-R and how does it behave with Tarzans G-box? http://www.nengun.com/do-luck/tarzan-g-box

100 octane what? What % of ethanol did it have?

I parked the car on a kerb with one wheel and street on another and managed to barely get under the car. It was easier to find and undo the bolt than I expected, thought it was scary having my head mm away from the subframe bolts. I did not need to use a breaker bar as you said MatthewT85 or any swearing or special tools. This is all I used Yup just a generic socket wrench. It fit in the square hole easily. The bolt was not tight. The diff took about 200ml to it before It started leaking out. This time I used light castrol manual transmission fluid 75w-80. End result is car now tucks into corners again so I'm happy. One thing I found odd was that I could not tighten the nut all the way when closing it, there was about 2-4 threads left visible and the bolt was very tight. But thats how I found it.