sonicz

Why don't you first stress releive the bracket by heating it to around 400c, then when you fit the bracket back on, put the bracket between two washers on either side before you bolt it back on. It should hopefully allow that tiny bit more flex, so it doesn't snap. Just made that up on the spot based on the problem, but it should help your issue.

E85 attracts a ton of water so cars running E85 tend to have a lot of condensatin, or possibly called "white smoke" coming out the exhaust when idling. Are you sure its not just a lot of condensation mixed in with normal car smells?

Definitely would have been the corrosion. I wonder how an R34 gets is all corroded up but my older R33 is spotless. Watch for them battery acid spills I guess, only use completely sealed batteries. I recommend a product called CRC 2-26. Its like WD40, but an anti everything bad when it comes to electrical anything. Seriusly i dont mean to sounds like a smart arse when saying that. Take out all your fuses/relays and spray the crap out the sockets and put them back in. I can guarantee you you wont have corrosion problems again for the life of your car.

This happened to my gf. You just gotta wait it out.

Good to hear. Are these the blue racing ones, or the regular black ones? Maybe all the bad ones were fake ebay ones. I didn't even know there were fake Gates V racing belts around.

I don't really get why you are asking this question? What does the time frame of 15 years ago vs now have to do with anything? Not everyone has access to the latest and greatest tunes/computers injectors etc if its what you are implying. The value of an adjustable reg depends on the circumstances, and in my case it has infinitely more value than a stock reg because it allows me to lower the fuel pressure to a more reasonable level, whereas a stock one does not, but even if we were generally speaking, what value do you not see they have? They perform exactly the same function (if not better at it) as the stock reg, with the added bonus that they give you the ability to adjust the fuel pressure, should the need arise, or simply if you want to run a little richer or a little leaner without changing the tune. Or just to get that fuel pressure bang on. They have no downsides. If the need does arise, as in my case, its an easy tool you can use to lower or raise the fuel pressure. I also think there is a misunderstanding somewhere. Are you guys under the impression that a properly working stock reg will keep a proper pressure in my case? I tried a few stock regs, they all perform identically, too high. Even with a perfectly functioning stock regulator, my pressure will be too high. I reason that its simply because the pump is flowing too high, not because there is anything wrong with the stock regs or my setup. The lines seem ok. So no stock reg will be able to do the job in this case. And I don't see why you guys keep bringing up stock regs? It is this same line of thinking that the stock regulator somehow is able to maintain proper pressure (even if you install a high flowing pump) that got me into trouble by installing a higher flowing pump in the first place without being prepared for it. It doesn't do that based on what I have seen. If you fit a 400lph pump, the fuel pressure will be too high running the stock reg on stock fuel lines no matter what. Maybe there is something wrong with my setup, but I suspect that is how it would be in any car running the the stock reg. Who is running a 400lph pump and has the stock rb25det reg keeping 43psi? I don't think thats possible. If anyone has evidence to the contrary I'm curious. A user called kingtube69 recently installed a 400lph pump, and he said his fuel pressure was too high afterwards. Which makes sense because he is now flowing more, so he needed an adjustable reg to lower the pressure. The stock reg cant keep 43pis anymore. Same as in my case. I don't think its a matter of stock regs going bad by coincidence when you fit a new pump, and I don't think you can say to him the stock regs are fine. They suddenly become useless. You need an adjustable reg if you have a much higher flowing pump than stock, unless you want to tune for and run whatever higher fuel pressures your stock FPR decides to give, which I am not in that position. I need it at 43psi, so a stock FPR is a paper weight to me. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459719-wiring-questions-for-intank-fuel-pump-upgrade/

Thanks for the offer, but I already have a few stock ones around and I find little value to non adjustable FPRs.

Yup that would be good advice for light mods to the car. It would increase the voltage to the stock pump and provide a bit more flow for no cost and little work. The problem is people replace the stock pump with a high flowing one AND also do the wiring mods. This leads to way too much pressure in the system.

Man just get a timing belt kit, belt water pump and bearings. Preferably get a genuine kit. Re do the whole thing. You don't want to risk the timing belt or tensioner snapping on you. I have no personal experiences with them, but I have heard WAY to many bad stories about the V racing gates belts to ever use one. Stories such as things being perfect at first, then the car developing timing issues or the belt rubbing off after only 20-30,000ks after installation, whereas the genuine nissan belt would go at least 100,000k with no problems. Not just from one source but the same story repeated over and over again.

Maybe the timing belt was put on too tight or too loose or on an angle and something is slapping against something that shouldn't there, or the tensioner is going bad, I would seriously get the timing belt redone including bearings because if its snaps you will almost certainly break the engine. I hope its not the gates racing blue belt either as Ive heard they are POS.

Exactly that last part I am talking about. If the maximum hole size is too small for a certain amount of flow, it wont be able to keep the pressure down below a certain amount no matter what its set to. Therefore the range of adjustability an FPR has is totally dependent of the flow rate.

There's not much to spit out but I'll tell you what I know. My pressure was around 65psi at idle with the vacuum hose connected when I measured it. The pump I just got of ebay. It was a hi flow walbro type pump, possibly even a 400lph one. It was always too big, I just never knew it. Car originally felt ok after install but as the weeks went on it started acting weird and I guess I just never put two and two together or realised new the fuel pressure was so high. No i have not tried blowing the return hose, but but its a great idea! So it should just blow with little no resistance? Do I need the fuel cap open for this? Should I wear lipstick? 33SOM, thx for the same idea as well. Blind elk. Same as above. Well It depends, the simple size of the stock fuel hoses would offer a certain pressure at a certain flow level. I was just curious what the pressure would be without an FPR with say for example at 340-400lph. Surely it wont be 0. Maybe it will be 2 or 20psi but it wont be 0. Because I don't understand how a fuel pressure regulator can claim to have a certain range of adjust-ability without know the flow rate. For example if an FPR has a range of adjust-ability from 35-70psi, then if you flow twice that amount of whatever flow rate was used to get that reading, not matter how low you set the FPR you will never get get 35psi.

What pump did you end up going with, and what was the fuel pressure reading? How far out is your screw on the nismo FPR to get a base pressure of 43PSI?. Make sure to set the base pressure of 43psi with the vacuum hose unplugged. Have you done a drive test and seen the fuel pressure as you hit boost and back down? Yea when you are making drastic changes like fuel its a huge influence on the way the car runs. People just change fuel pumps willy nilly because of the "regulator" but its exactly the same as throwing in a new set of injectors without reprogramming the ECU. Actually its even worse as it delays the firing of the injector solenoid and sometimes the fuel delivery goes up, sometimes it goes down, sometimes spray pattern is altered etc, or all 3 at once. And as you say with the new pump even when you bring the fuel pressure back down to where it should be, it still acts as you put it a bit "how do you do" under load. I think an aftermarket pump has different flow characteristics and different pressures and so it just isn't what the ECU expects. What fuel pressure gauge did you use?

No offense taken scotty, I am never bothered about things like people "having a go" or not. I don't claim to know any of this for a fact, just throwing out bits of information which may end up being helpful to some. I can only guess as to why one of the 6 injectors is doing it, maybe it had a slightly different spray pattern to begin with, or maybe it was just in the right place at the right time. Maybe in the same way you get vortexes within certain areas of a swimming pool, maybe you get the same within the fuel rail and the location matters, not just for streams but for temperature difference as well. As for why the tip and not the filter, well the tip is where the action happens, and the fuel gets atomized, experiences a pressure change, temperature change, mixes with a new environment etc. Prior to that its all pretty uniform stuff, kind of like how a Volcano only starts to smoke and clog up at the tip and not as its making its way through the earth. The only reason I brought this up is I was personally curious as to what the reason was injectors were dying out with e85, which happened to me on a number of times, and there is 100s of theories and the exact number of counter theories to those theories, but what I came across that was most striking was that the people, all other factors identical, people with inline fuel pumps were having the issue much more than than people with external fuel pumps. All the components and materials were identical, the only variable changed was fuel temperature at the injector tip, which was always higher with the in take pumps, and it coincided more with the goo. I haven't confirmed any of this it just made the most sense to me so I thought I would share it.

Even more off topic but I still have an extra set of S1 R33 Rear seats in good condition. $30 if anyone wants em in syd.

I don't think its the bulb, its some electrical component. The reason I know is you think its been burned out for years and then it starts working again.

I believe the cause of problems like the black goo with e85 was too high a fuel temperature, not stock rubber parts being deteriorated. I,e having an in-tank fuel pump and flowing a lot of fuel raises the temperature of the fuel to the point its almost boiling and during the spray pattern something burns of wrong and sticks to the injector. Out of tank pumps with cooler flowing fuel did not have this goo problem as much. I dont think it was ever a case of rubber melting. Rust on the other hand...Has anyone opened up their engine after years of e85 and checked for rust?

Its a 1998 R33 GTST. Do you have a picture of the restriction hose? Can you feel anything inside the hose if you squeese it? I have done everything I can to drop the fuel pressure, Nismo FPR is not enough, my only remaining option is to throw a lower flow pump and Its such as shame as this one was installed so well those years ago. Deep down in the hole and proper. I don't think I have the patience to do it again sitting in the boot like a monkey feeling around inside a dark hole.

Kingtube, I don't think its necessary to to do any Mods other than install the new pump in the factory location IF YOU have a need for it. If the stock pump is working fine, it is probably just perfect for you, so just leave it. Can I ask why your upgrading the fuel pump? If you don't have a exact purpose to do so for OTHER " upgrades" you are doing to the car, spend your time instead installing a fuel pressure gauge and regulator, that is much more helpful than a new high flow pump you probably don't need and especially one that is rewired for moah poaw!' Heres why. -Your stock pump is probably flowing enough, even good for up to 350hp. -If you drop in the new pump you will probably be flowing too much, running rich causing crazy AFRs confusing the computer and possibly causing damage to engine, injectors, fouling up cat etc. -If you drop in the new pump and earth out the grey wire you will be flowing even more and running richer. It not only bypasses the hi/low voltage switch but it raises the total high voltage output to the pump as well. I have 100% proven this with my own testing. -If you drop in a new pump and do a direct battery rewire you will probably be flowing even more way to much. So if you are upgrading pumps for the same reason I did, which was being told "these pumps are now 20yos old you don't want to risk leaning out and frying the engine.." Don't do it Its not good advice. Especially since you are never told anything about over fueling because the "stock FPR is fine and will handle it" and also that "the stock wiring is inadequate you need to do a direct wire". Not only are you possibly trying to fix a problem that isn't there but you are making a problem out of nothing and spending time and money in the process. So check your fuel pressure under boost and if it isn't dipping, what need would you have for a new pump? You wont. I stupidly replaced my stock fuel pumps on both my skylines and THREW them out out mind you on cars that ran perfectly and now I have been having all sorts of problems getting the right flow with an aftermarket pump. I have tried differing wiring tactics, different FPRs, the car is never happy any more. I was running 80psi off pressure through the injectors without knowing and neither did the car because it thought it had 43psi for years. This was ALL on the stock wiring just a high flow pump. Nothing has burned out, just ran stupidly rich and no matter what i do I cant get the pressure below 50psi unless I go look for a used factory pump and do all that effort to swap back out.

Like a de cat, If you just ran a straight through hose where the FPR normally sits, does anyone know what the fuel pressure would be in the stock fuel system running a 340lph pump?. Just at idle, you can negate injectors here. I'm trying to bring my fuel pressure down and no matter what I do its always too high. I have checked there are no pinches anywhere. Stock fuel lines. Before I spend money on a high end FPR I want to know if its even possible to go as low as I need, or I I need to change out the pump for flowing too much just the stock fuel line is enough of a restriction to raise the pressure above what I need.

I dunno maybe you can take it for a quick 15 min drive to bed the new clutch in at least a little bit before going straight on the dyno for a tune, but I would guess a dyno is not hard on a clutch at all, maybe its the perfect spot to break in a new cluttch lol

Maybe the spark is giving out above 4000rpm. I know you have spitfires but that doesn't rule it out. Maybe you are running overly rich, fuel pressure regulator busted etc? What spark plugs are you replacing it with? I hope you are not one of those guys that uses iridiums and gaps them down to 0.01mm. 0.8mm is low enough and use coppers. The boost cut you are hitting because the AFM is running out of reading range. Nothing you can do about that unless you change to a bigger AFM, so just keep it under that point.

You cant mix AFMS afaik. Match the colors up on the sticker. That could easily be the problem.

Man I've had that exact same "issue" maybe for the past 5...years? I hope that helps you not to make any rash decisions over a little noise like that which could be perfectly normal. When I first heard it I thought the same thing as you, turbo whine, its on its way out, started looking for options to change the turbo, better do it before it blows and maybe takes the engine with it I thought! What a great excuse for an upgrade! When you hear the noise you can keep it going as long as you keep the throttle the same, then as soon as you press more or less it goes away right? IF the turbo was dying it would whine non stop. If the car is running good and you are happy with it just drive it, in fact boost it as much as you want up to the normal recommended amount for your setup and don't worry. Your turbo could be better than you think. If it does blow chances are it wont get past the inter-cooler and you can replace it then. But I think you will find the turbo will outlast your grankids. The R33s turbos are tough. I am not saying in your case your turbo is fine, but I am 99.9999% sure its not what you are imagining it to be. In my case it was just being overly concerned as it it has been nothing. Have you tried disconnecting the speakers and radio to see if the noise is not interference from the speakers? I mean really physically disconnect the cables.

I never understood how people claim the Autobox in the turbo 33 and 34 skylines are "good up to 300kw". All 3 I've owned have had slip on a completely stock car just with a boost increase to 10 psi. At 7psi they hold, any more than that I can feel the engine pulling more than the actual car is accelerating. People say just buy a new auto box they are cheap but the used ones do the same thing. Maybe I was unlucky or maybe people just cant tell when a auto box is slipping and just think its "good". It will last for many years slipping but you are just wasting power not putting it to the wheels. It seems pointless to me to just keep throwing stock auto boxes in unless the car is completely stock power wise. The only thing I haven't tried is one with a shift kit, but I was quoted over $1500 to have one installed and at the time it was cheaper to just replace it with a used one but doesn't seem to be the case as you are just spending money for the same problem. The clutch packs in the stock auto box just don't hold on hard enough imo. Afterwards I figured shift kit actually press the clutches together harder thus allowing more power to be transferred to the wheels and preventing wearing out the clutch packs. I think I figured this out too late as I assumed shift kit just makes the autobox transition from one gear to the next faster, i.e "slam the gears", not able to make it hold more power. If that's the case this is how they should come factory as in stock form the they are really lax.