sonicz

Belts sold

Just wanted to say I finally put these up for sale as its just a waste keeping them, I don't plan to use them. Didn't want to muck around with something like $500 so I halved it and took $20 off for good measure. They have more scuff marks than I remembered but still very good. A respray would make them really good. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455692-syd-r33-parts-for-sale-inc-stock-rims-s1-ignitor-cas/#entry7515720

Got some good parts that are a waste just sitting around. Trying to price them aggressively lower than what I see right off the bat. Set of 4 Stock rims (1998 GTST). No physical damage just scuff marks. - $230 Cam angle Sensor. off a RB25DET - $50. Can confirm working condition. Used this to check a timing issue and both my own CAS and this one were not the issue. Set of 4 Gates Belts. Brand new never used -$30 Brand new Intake manifold Gasket -$10 S1 Ignitor module, genuine, great condition, can confirm working -$50 Genuine Walbo 255 pump -$10 Came out of a working car but cannot confirm condition after a few yrs hence the price. R33 Battery Fuse box -$20 Series 1 R33 Rear HICAS steering rack unit. -$30 A working spare I got from a wrecker but never fitted. Ball joints don't feel like they have any play in them. The various control arms are off a different R33 GTST. $10 for the lot of them Complete front 5 Stud Hub Assembly of a R33 GTST- NON ABS- Bearings feel good. -$30 Lastly A Pair of front HUB assembly. They are somewhere in the back of the shed in bags so I don't want to get them out for nothing, but its the complete Hubs with the control arm still atached like this PM me or txt 0421 605 491 for more info.

Don't make the same mistake I did. Fit a Fuel pressure gauge before you do the swap, get a good check of the fuel pressures and then compare it to after. Only way to know.

Are you still running the stock ECU controlled boost controller by any chance? Have you monitored boost levels when this occurs to see if they rise? I have a turbo Auto R33 as well can't say I've noticed anything like this though I'm happy for you to take a drive and see if you can learn anything.

Most likely your clutches are slipping and it takes that long to get a fully engaged grip under WOT. Every auto skyline I have driven that wasn't a fresh R34 has had bad slip. IMO they only last about 100k. When is the last time you changed your transmission fluid and what did you use? Nulon Synthetic works best for me. I know this may sound stupid as hell to you but it has worked wonders on slipping skyline auto boxes for me. try draining out transmission fluid until you have just after the kink on the dipstick. Yes that is below the cold range and yes take the measurement with the car warmed up and running with the shifter to park.

Ok, I can see that making sense. The Nismo FPR I have is only a year or so old and it got it brand new so should be in good working order. In the meantime, I found this interesting and I wonder if you care to speculate as to what is going on here. Now that I have been driving the car with the stock wiring setup i..e no grey wire earthed to chassis, I have noticed the idle is much smoother, and engine feels a lot smoother too but down on power. Starting up the car takes a lot less to get to 650rpm idle, whereas before it struggled to get it that low. I can almost guarantee you the car is running much richer now than it used to. When I stop after accelerating and the wind wafts, I smell much richer fuel coming out the exhaust. My fuel economy is much worse. Funnily it seems that with the earth wire greyed out, running at a constant 65psi, the car somehow ran a lot leaner, provided more power, now with the wiring back to stock, i.e switching between 55ish psi on high and 37psi on low The stock ECU is running the car much richer up top.

lol that sounds like there is a lot of guesstimating involved. Your wiring is not rooted so it must not be pumping much? So I guess we are full circle back to FPR. Ok, I'll fit the Nismo FPR and see how I go. That said I still want to know, do I set the base pressure with the voltage regulator to the high or low position?? OR Are are u guys saying because my wiring hasn't melted (meaning it cant be flowing much more than a stock) that once I fit a new FPR assuming its not rooted, my fuel pressure will be 43 PSI regardless of whether the voltage switch is running on high or low? I still find that hard to believe. Its probably worthwhile mentioning that once I fitted the new pump, I noticed a MASSIVE increase to how hot my boot gets, and how much quicker fuel squirts out the hose when the pump is primed. Also don't quote me on the exact figure but the guy I got it of said the pumps are used on some motorsport GTRs and it can support up to 800HP. The only reason I got it is because it was something like $90, and stated as direct replacement for stock pump, and all the info I read seemed to say the FPR will keep the pressure in check, so I figured I'm just future proofing and/or having tons of headroom. I'll let you guys know how the nismo FPR does when I get around to it.

Oh man, I've gone through the same thing. Does this sound familiar? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439471-cheap-chassis-bracing-bits-you-can-buy-and-bolt-in/ "I want some extra structural rigidity in the car anyway since my driveway is on a funny incline and I have to drive the car up diagonally. It twists the chassis enough to make the window frame make popping cracking sounds each time. "Like I said the driveway has had its toll and I want to give it more support. Use the back seats from time to time so no roll cages." Do you also have one of those mountain style driveway kerbs? Do you also notice a brake shudder when you brake? And sloppyness to straight line driveabilty? I don't even put my good skyline up there at all. Yes I also started getting squeeks.

Just join the two pipes going through the firewall into the heater core on the engine side. Pull of a hose and get something like a brass plumbing pipe from bunnings that matches perfectly and cut to size and clamp the two hoses that would otherwise run into the heater core together. Will solve your leaking issue if your heater core is in fact the problem. Getting the heater core out of the Dash is a much bigger job from the inside.

So you are saying that if you were to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to a completely stock skyline, the pressure would remain at 43 psi whether the pump was on the low or high volatge state, because the fuel pressure regulator would be able to do its job due to the less powefull pump, and the only difference being on the high voltage state more fuel would be circulating around giving more headroom for a better chance of preventing any pressure drop to to usage by the injectors as you are driving instead of idling. Ok makes sense, I did not think about it that way. Damn this lazyness I almost want to fit a stock pump back in just to test that. Not sure about other larger aftermarket pumps, but the one I have fitted certainly seems to be doing fine with the stock wiring. I saw the threads on the fuel pump wire up with its own fuse and direct feed to the battery those years ago, I honestly thought it complete unnecessary for my application back then, and looking at the fuel pressure now I think I made the right decision to keep stock wiring as the last thing I need is even more power and more fuel to be pumped around. The aftermarket pump even on the completely stock wiring is too powerful, and I would say that when you earth out the grey wire and keep everything else stock, there will be little difference between that and doing a complete rewire through its own fuse and relay. What do you mean the two stage stock voltage dropping circuit isn't going to handle the current? Its currently switching between the two states fine, and I would not want to raise the voltage any more than what the hi settings already is giving it, in fact I need to drop it. Am I missing something here, if nothing has burned out yet why would the stock wiring not be sufficient? I have the exact same style pump on 2 two skylines spanning over 5 years of combined usage without wiring problems.

So why hasn't anyone done this with a skyline? All you would need is some kind of way to control a variable resistor with a knob. The stock car does this already with the 0 and 1 fuel pump voltage states you would just need to tap into this in a variable way. Actually making my car run on the low voltage setting permanently could be perfect for a "fix". There could be nothing it all that's wrong with the reg, as you said it may just be a case of it being too little to regulate the massive flow. I just went out and looked at the fuel pressure after I returned the wiring to stock. Its 37ish PSI with the vacuum hose connected and 43.5ish with it disconnected. God himself could not dial it any better, and this is just dumb luck it turned out this way when the voltage is on the "low" state. What remains to be answered is, -Does a stock car have a value of 43PSI with the FPR vacuum disconnected on the LOW or HIGH voltage state? Anyone that has run a pressure test on an otherwise fully stock skyline I would love to know the readings. -If I permanently set the voltage to run on the LOW setting in order to achieve 43 psi base reading, will this trick the computer in "tuning" itself up to expect a voltage rise under throttle, but not get it, and this lean out and detonate under hard acceleration? -How do I get the fuel pump to run on the LOW voltage state permanetly?? These are important question I cant believe there is not more information about this. One last thing for the keen eyed. Some years ago there was debate here on SAU whether the fuel volage earth mod pictured in this thread only allowed the car to run on the high volatge setting all the time, or whether it did that in ADDITION to providing extra voltage to the pump as well. Some said it raised the total volatge of the pump and some said it did not do that and simply stopped the volatge from dropping. Well you can see in the video that my HIGH volatge PSI dropped to around 55 psi, down from 65ish when the grey wire is earthed out. This proves earthing out the grey wire in the boot and ONLY doing this raises the total voltage provided to the pump as well. New back to stock wiring. Dropped my High volatge state PSI to around 55psi, down from 65psi. You can see I have used hot swappable crimps that will alow me to switch between the wiring methods. Stock wiring FPG readings

Scotty, with ref to that restrictor in the hose you speak of, have you ever seen it in a 1998 Skyline GTS-T? I am aware of the knockoffs. The only FPR I have purchased is a Genuine Nismo FPR from Japan, and thats the one I will probably pull of my unregistered Skyline to fit to my Stock (now) daily driver. Though I would probably be interested in a easy to fit onto stock RB25 layout FPR, with a high range of adjust-ability that has a Fuel pressure gauge built into it. And Lastly, in order to wrap up this fuel pressure setting topic, I need to know these few things. -Is there any possible damage to the stock injectors, having to open and close in a such a high pressure environment for so long (65psi 2+ years)? -When I aim to set what seems to be global value for base fuel pressure on a RB25DET of 43PS with the vacuum hose to FPR disconnected, who is this according to, Nissan or tuners? And Is that with the infamous ECU controlled fuel pump voltage regulator Skylines have switched to the Low or High setting (0 or 1 on consult)? What I mean by this, is that I have done the voltage control mod by earthing out the grey wire in the boot as pictured below and this is how I have been driving the car for 2 years. This means the pump gets full voltage all the time instead of being dropped down by the ECU at idle. A few days ago I connected the earthed wire back into the wiring loom, i,e as the car comes stock, and the PSI reading on the gauge I fitted now dropped to around 37PSI at the low voltage idle setting. As soon as the throttle is touched, it rises back to to 65psi. This is what I mean by the stock Fuel pump probably has a different flow characteristics at the two voltages than an aftermarket pump, and I imagine the range of PSI drop is not as great as between 37 and 65 PSI. So no matter what you do as far as a fuel reg is concerned, you can never match the Fuel pressure according to what the ECU expects, IF the stock ECU expects the voltage to drop, and it should as its the one doing it, does it also expect the fuel pressure to drop and takes that into its tune? This obviously introduces some more complications. Do I? -Stock reg, stock pump, stock wiring -Stock pump, stock reg, Earth mod wiring -Stock pump, Aftermarket reg, Earth mod wiring -Aftermarket pump, Aftermarket reg, Stock wiring -Aftermarket pump, Aftermarket reg, Earth mod wiring. EDIT: I just had a think outside the box possible simple solution to this issue. What would I need to do in order to make the fuel pump work permanently at the LOWER voltage setting, All the time? This would get me bang on the fuel pressure I need and would require no mucking around aside form maybe adding a resistor somewhere?

Thankyou for the help guys. I think I've now personally realized in my situation I either fit my Nismo FPR and see what happens or go back to stock pump, I just have been admittedly too busy/lazy to do the work. That said you guys have made me realize that no matter what I do to normalize the pressure, I will never be able to reduce the amount of fuel being pumped around unless I change the pump. I also think that unless you get an aftermarket ECU, the stock pump it also most ideal as even if you get the fuel pressure bang on, the flow characteristics of the stock pump are different to an aftermarket pump especially when taking into account the fuel pump voltage control system skylines have. Let me just get this straight, when the reg is fully open, it lowers the fuel pressure of the entire system because there is a bigger opening for the fuel to travel through, thus less fuel is backed up meaning easier flow meaning lower pressure? With this in mind, even if a Aftermarket FPR is able to set a base pressure of 43 PSI, I will still be pumping an absurd amount of fuel around and an FPR will do nothing to change this? And this is with a Chinese copy pump. Honestly who needs this much fuel to be flowing around, even if you are making 2000hp? The amount of fuel that comes out of the hose when I was emptying the tank was just absurd. It honestly would only take a minute or two tops to empty an entire 60L fuel tank. What kind of tune would necessitate that much fuel being pumped around....?

Any disadvantage of doing that though? For example aren't you making the pump work extra hard pulling extra power, getting hotter etc, all for nothing and then blocking its flow with an FPR, when a stock pump would be more ideal for my application? I also noticed that when I unplug the vacuum hose to the FPR nothing changes as far as Fuel pressure is concerned. You can see this in the video I posted. Isn't the vacuum meant to lower the fuel pressure with the hose connected and make it rise to the "default" value of 43 psi when disconnected? This could indicated the stock FPR is completely busted? Yea but have you fitted a mechanical Fuel pressure guage and looked at the pressure in those cases where you have a 460L walbro on the stock reg. I would be shocked if it was at 35ish psi it should be. When you say you can supply an aftermarket reg, I'm a little confused, whats the difference between getting them from you and from ebay or nengun for example? P.S I already have a Nismo FPR in my other skyline which had the e85 problem. I let rego lapse on it since I didn't want to pay for a car that Im not driving so I can easily pull the Nismo FPR off that I guess.

So whats the proper solution? Story goes. >Me not know much about Skylines years ago (Lucky didn't blow the welds on the intake by granny shiftin not double clutchin like i shud). >Me read on SAU most stock fuel pumps on their way out and not safe to up boost even a little due to possible leaning out >Me worry and want to avoid this. >Walbro 255 suggested as great replacement for stock pump. >Me go on ebay looking for gss342 pumps >Me find one thats similar to a Walbro 255 but better, claims to be direct replacement for stock item, and flows 345-385L/H such as this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GSS341-Type-340L-H-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Skyline-GTR-RB20-RB25-RB26-R32-R33-R34-/110983052442?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19d71afc9a >Me suspect possible problem of changing from stock to aftermarket and have to dig for info and find but find little info on needing a retune etc, and find mentioned info that these fuel pumps are "direct replacements" and thats its just a plug and play job that no retune necessary as the stock FPR will keep the fuel pressure in check >Me fit it and drive for 2 years wondering why the car never behaves as good as when I first got it. >Ironically the stock fuel pump was perfect in perfect working order just like the rest of the car and the supposed playing it safe has been causing damage. >End up in worse situation that if I did nothing at all. Will an adjustable FPR be good enough or will that get blown out of spec to what the car expects as well? I.e Maybe it will hold base pressure but the rising rate will not be correct for what the ECU wants? I'm thinking a stock fuel pump may be the best way to go now but I was made to believe they are so old and crap that I think I even threw it out. Ironically on the day I took it out it was a gleaming gold color and was literally twice the size of the new gss342 I replaced it with. And now I have danger to manifold and my floor pan will blow off as a result..?

I finally did this on my otherwise stock 1998 R33 GTST I mentioned in one of my posts above (not the one I ran on e85 and the injectors died, but running the same fuel pump), and its exactly as I suspected, way way way too high with an aftermarket pump, the stock fuel reg cannot cope. The poor car must be running crazy rich. Its almost hitting 65psi of base fuel pressure at idle and thats with no boost. During boost it may hit 75+ psi I don't know because I'm not under the hood to see while driving. Stock ECU, stock injectors, stock everything. Carbon deposits, fouled parts, weird detonation...poor ring-lands? So now, I either buy a stock R33 GTST fuel pump for it (or direct stock replacement), or buy a adjustable FPR and set the correct fuel pressure? Looks like you cannot just stick a new fuel pump in there and hope the stock fuel reg keeps things in check cos thats just insanely high. I know people say its supposed to be 43 PSI base fuel pressure, but I have seen a few skylines running stock fuel pumps showing 25-30psi on an actual gauge and the cars ran great even with minor mods. I'm almost 3x that amount.

Have you checked that the fusible links are in good order? I have seen them mess with instrument gauges. And by this I mean that they are making good solid contact and there is no corrosion, not just that they are not broken.

I've gone through a fair bit of different toe in/out and camber settings growing up. Big numbers are not worth it unless your in a V8 supercar race team. I have learned the best setting and the easiest on your car is 0/0 toe on the front, and a touch of toe in on the rear for stability, I'm talking hardly any, just less than 1mm. The car will drive a lot more neutral and its easier on your wheel bearings and tyres. Just think toe in and out is making your tyres point in a different direction to the way they are spinning which is pretty ludicrous really. As for camber, anything more than -1 in the rear will cause it to have less grip and oversteer in the wet like crazy. I had all factory suspension arms which had me at about 1.7 neg camber for some reason with stock springs, went to adjustable hardrace, set it to -1 and and got masses of more grip and stability from the rear.

I'll a check if auto parts stores like autobarn and bursons have a t-piece with the right thread, otherwise going to have to google my nearest hydraulic/pneumatic supplier. I'm guessing I'm looking for something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AEROFLOW-INLINE-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-5-16-BARB-ADAPTER-1-8-PORT-BLUE-AF138-05-/400575627401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d442b0089 Thats expensive for an adapter, more than the gauge. Do I use teflon tape on the thread, thread sealer like locktight? Something else? Do they make fittings with a rubber on the end so you don't have to use a sealant etc? I'm uneasy about fitting parts after the filter TBH. I could easily introduce something in the fuel that gets stuck in an injector like a piece of tape of sealant, I cant deal with that at the moment. Any chance you could fitting it gtsboy? I'm in Sydney West.

I needed a quick fix so I just swapped them out. I'll be selling the old injectors for really cheap ($30) in case anyone is interested in them and thinks they just need a clean which could easily be the case. Here they are. I'm really curious what the fuel pressure is with that high rated pump blazing at full voltage. I got a Fuel pressure gauge, but I'm not confident fitting it myself. Anyone with experience in this willing to help out by fitting a fpg, maybe for a 6 pack of beer? I got one of these But no fitting or adapters or knowledge how it needs to be fitted. I'm in sydney, let me know and I can drop by.

Just wanted to say thanks again for that info hardsteppa. Got myself a "manual only" nismo mount and it went in perfect in the auto, even though nowhere else in the world is compatibility listed (infact it was explicitly denied by some sellers), other than your info. Forums working like they should (not granny shifting). Here is the old Auto mount if anyone is interested.

No other changes really other than bumping up the fuel flow via pump and FPR to flow more to match the higher boost and e85. It was running perfect for many months. Tons of grunt, no misfire or too lean/rich etc so I'm pretty sure it was dialed in right after the initial "setting" guesswork, but something started to get to the injectors in the Damage over time sense. Yea they could have been clogged, but I didn't bother to get them cleaned and just threw in another set. Based on what people have said here I believe it was the E85 that did it. Either by damaging the internal components or by stirring up so much gunk that had been collecting for 20 years that it blocked them up. I also saw some slight corrosion/rust inside the stock fuel rail, so E85 probably not good for mostly stock skylines.. Having said that, can anyone tell me what is the maximum pressure the Stock RB25DET injectors can handle? I'm curious if just running a very high fuel pressure even just on 98 unleaded can damage injectors in this way and make them die? The main reason I ask if I have a second series 2 R33 skyline that I keep mostly all stock and clean. The only changes I have made is fit a new fuel pump because the old one from the previous owner started whining, ironically its the same 385L/ph pump that I fitted to the above test mule car I was running on e85. I also earthed the grey wire in the boot. After doing this same hot boot and screaming fuel pump symptoms as car 1. No other mods to this car and I actually care about it so I keep it on 98 only. But with the new pump its running a bit rougher and richer than previously. I'm worried if now the fuel pressure is too high on my S2 and if I will do any damage running it like this? It has the stock FPR and I was told thats what keeps the pressure, but I'm reluctant to believe this with the changes made to it. As soon as I fitted the new pump and voltage mod, the car started idling much higher, until the ECU figured things out, so clearly it does make a difference. Should I buy a walbro 255 pump instead of a 385L/h one, or keep the 385l/h one but unto the voltage mod?

All 6 of my injectors died a slow death within the space of half a year after fitting an aftermarket ebay 385L/h pump and switching to E85. The car began showing problems after running perfectly for some months by beginning to stutter when idling, then running ok again, then eventually misfires got worse, and would run on 5 cylinders, then 4 then 3 and then eventually would not even start. The cylinders were flooded with fuel. Spark plugs all soaked in fuel and black. Injector removal showed all O rings intact. The pump was a walbro copy looking pump. In addition to this I also did the fuel voltage "mod" by earthing out the grey wire leading to the fuel pump. This made the pump, pump massive amounts of fuel. I know technically the pump does not create pressure but rather volume, however so much was circulating so fast that I feel it raised the fuel pressure by copious amounts. Anything in the boot is about 50 degrees warm due to heating the fuel tank so much, and when I prime the fuel pump so much comes out I can literally fill a 2L bottle with fuel in about 3 primes. I'm curious which of the two did it (if not both), E85 or too much pressure killed the stock injectors so I can avoid that this time around with the new injectors that I fitted, again stock replacements due to budget limitations. Car now runs perfectly again with nothing but replacement injectors. I'm running it on 98 octane for the time being.

Wheres the best place to get a set fitted these days and how much do they cost now for say 19 35 245s? Has the price gone up?