sonicz

Thanks for the tips guys. I don't think anything is wrong with my seals or components, at first I suspected it may be the case, but now I'm pretty sure it was just air in the system as they are a lot better now. At the moment its ok, but still I don't feel it was done 100% right. IT seems the Skyline brake system is not an easy one to bleed, something in the design makes it that if you're not spot on and know exactly what to do you will have problems, certainly more so than other cars like mazdas I've owned. Scotty, any info on where to pickup a cheap vac bleeder?

Yea most of the old stuff out, though obviously some residuals would be left in reservoir tank and lining of components. I think the order was rear left rear right front left front right. I had/have no idea that you cant mix synthetic and mineral based. Have no idea what the previous owner had. I used dot 5.1 from supercheap. How come all the "good" stuff seems to be dot 4? Is that ok to use? I think dot 5 is the one not to use, correct? I still feel like there is air in the system somewhere that gets pumped around, maybe stuck in the ABS unit, how on earth do you bleed that.

Just changed the pads and fluid and its much better now. Looks like it was related to air and water in the old possibly never changed brake fluid. It still has about 30% of that stiffness left however so I wonder if it was done right.

Maybe it came across a bit too dramatically. Its not scary bad, its just a bit strange and the brakes otherwise feel like they are working easily and normally. The car recently passed rego and a average driver they probably would not even notice it. I guess I could describe the brakes using the common "mushy" or "spongy" terminology, but only at the start of the pedal travel and then they bite down really well and strong. Normally when brakes a spongy they are spongy throughout. I am going to change the brake fluid as I think it could be air in the brake fluid making things mushy. Use any Dot 5.1 grade right? Its ABS equipped. The perfect analogy would be the shock absorber on your computer chair. Take the chair all the way to the top, then hold the handle which allows you to go down again and sit on it fast from a height whilst holding the handle. You'll notice it wont let you just slam the chair straight down, but rather resist you plenty initially, then ease of holding you back and let you go down at a faster pace

On my 93 R33, the brake pedal has a really bad habit of knocking you back or holding you in a spot if you apply pressure to fast, for example in a panic brake situation. This is BEFORE you even reach the initial bite point of the brakes. It has resistance with zero actual braking force and its totally dependant on how fast you apply pressure. Lets say if you try slam on the brakes while you are driving down the road and see something, the pedal will get rock hard, completely keeping the pedal from getting to the point where the brakes bite. It will hover here no mater how hard yo press, the harder you press the stiffer it gets. After a few seconds it will start to move down again at its own rate (kind of like a shock absorber) and get into the point where the brakes bite normally. IF you ease the pedal slowly down during the first parts of the movement, getting past the initial movement slowly, you can then slam it down and it wont lock up on you. What exactly is going on here. The brakes are strong and dont have a lot of pedal travel otherwise.

Are you guys having a meet up any time soon?

Had a feeling this seller is a bit of a dud. I ordered the part around the time we were talking about it and have patiently been waiting for weeks and weeks for it to come. There is still no sign of the item and the seller has not replied to any attempts to make communication with him over the course of the weeks. Looks like I'm going to have to paypal claim my money back and look for the part elsewhere....

Speaking of which, whats the cheapest place to buy all these poly bushes for our cars. I recall seeing a complete poly set on ebay for $565 but that was a year ago, I didn't get it and I haven't seen such a good deal yet.

You Gotta be pretty naive or delusional to think thats tinfoil hat stuff. It may not be right around the corner or while we are young enough to care, but anyone with half a brain knows thats where the world is heading. A new Euro as in new European car or Honda accord euro lol? I've driven a 2013 Audi S5 and a 2005 ish BMW M3. A few regular VW jettas and golfs here and there as well. I hated the Audio cos all the electronic crap made the car feel completely disconnected from the driver. I would not say it would munch a modified GTR in terms of feel or even speed for that matter. Sure you can drive it fast same way you can drive fast in a video game, but you have to point it into a corner and hope everything will be ok, cos you sure as hell don't feel like you are in control. And I'm not sure how much I would trust all those electronic components to go around a bend where moving out of your line would mean disaster. The steering feel was horrible, like you are steering with rope, ditto to throttle. No surprise really when you have no solid connection between the steering wheel and wheels. I liked the BMW for the most part though, but I'm pretty sure that had a solid connection between the steering wheel and the wheels. The SMG gearbox was solid but I wouldn't say comforting or seamless. Throttle was very good. I haven't driven many new sports cars, but so far every new "electronic-ized" component I have seen has been a step back IMO. Clumsy wafty and unsettling is the best way I can describe it.

1. Cost cutting is probably the reason here. I don't think the car designers care whether the engine is more easily transplantable. 2,4, 5.. Yup makes all this easier. 3 .And your last point. You do realise that all these things are just heading toward more and more electronic governing of driving? And I don't mean in the engine control sense. Its speed restrictions for learners or valets modes now, in the future to be restrictions for all drivers including you almost everywhere you go. IF you like driving you are shooting yourself in the foot going all electronic. You will probably have mandatory GPS based speed/acceleration etc restrictions going into your car in the not too distant future, and all these electronic devices between you and the engine just make it that much easier to implement.

While i can see the potential of electronic throttles is greater than DBW because in theory you the ECU can perfectly control the AFR, I just haven't driven one I have liked, and IMO it just adds a complication that doesn't need to be there. All the ones I have driven have just been clumsy and dim-witted and never behaved how you expect. I mean what was wrong with having a steel cable and a Throttle position sensor at the throttle body? The ECU still knows exactly how much throttle is open and you just have avoided a placing an electronic component that can add lag or problems. I also see elimination kits that revert back to DBW for cars that have fully electronic throttles. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/HPF/Engine/Throttle_Cables/Drive_By_Wire_Elimination/18966

You should try electronic throttle + electronic steering + auto steer (actually turns the car for you around bends without you even touching the steering wheel)+ auto brake (as you get close to a car in front) My uncle got a A5 and you don't tend to feel anything about how the car is driving. Its like any input you give has to go through a committee and if they approve they will do something similar to what you wanted. But by far the worst thing about electronic throttle is the fact it seems to keep revs high about 2 seconds after you completely let go of the pedal. Not sure how they think having a sensor in the pedal then a motor to open the throttle is better than a steel cable.

IMO if you are going to do it, its probably worth doing everything, in the sense that that gears are pretty much vital on an high km or hard driven gearbox overhaul, because like piston rings and block diameter, they wear out over time. I know its huge huge bucks, but each time the gears make contact they strip a a few atoms of metal of each other. Over all those trillions of revolutions of each gear against another, you may end up with a significant number of grams of metal missing from you gears, gone in the oil and crevices of the housing and magnet/filters etc. That said due to the soft engagement nature of automatic transmissions, I don't think any gear wear slop on an auto box would be as noticeable when it comes to feeling it as you drive (because of the soft engagement pass thru the torque converter and clutch plates), yet my auto skyline suffers the loose drive line as well that I am sure are downstream from the gearbox, so I think the problem for me at least lies elsewhere. And yes, I aware you would more than know all this already. But you could always add some saw dust to the gearbox oil to see if the gearbox is the culpit As for km on a car, I personally never ever trust them and only go based on the condition of the car. Unless you know the first owner of the car and know exactly when they bought and how much they drive it, how can you be sure. Every skyline still has 90,000km on the odo, and every skyline out of japan has 30k, 20+ years later. Yeah right. Anyway, back on topic, I really wish somebody could comment on that ebay nismo mount harsteppa posted in this thread on page 1. Do you guys think thats a genuine mount?

I have seen your posts over the years, I know your one of the most knowledgeable and mechanical competent guys on here. I can be a bit hard headed sometimes and I tend to point out things even though I don't always believe that's the case or I can fully stand behind it, but I think varied opinions and discussion are good. That said, have you driven other peoples GTS-ts and how do they compare to yours in the clunk deparment? Surely that clunk has to come from somewhere and if its as simple as the sum of all parts then it follows that your skyline, with an owner such as yourself and after such a thorough overhaul, should be one of the tightest, and most other skylines should be much worse than yours in the clunk department, but are they really?. All I can tell you is my 93 definitely has a lot less sloppyness than my 98, and I wonder what the car was like when new. Making such a thorough overhaul on yours, it should be as good or better than a out of the factory car, but is that really the case and if not surely there has to be something that can be done about it or something that has been overlooked, regardless of whether its worth it or not.

Weird. I'm assuming your engine mounts are fresh, and you've also looked at the tailshaft joints to see if that the problem?. Have you tried an engine damper (if your desperate its worth a shot i guess) When you jack the car up and rotate the rear wheels, Handbrake on and off how many degrees of free rotation do you get?

Hardsteppa, can you confirm if the ebay seller you posted above is a genuine nismo mount?. $87 is a lot cheaper than most places but not worth it of its a knock of, and there sure are lot of knock of parts around. Gtsboy, have you ever tried changing the diff with a fresher one or a complete rebuild on the diff to see if that makes a difference? I get what your saying the sum of all the play in the parts ads up to a lot, but not all skylines are like this and I'm pretty sure when these cars were new it was not how they behaved. As for the 93 vs 98 issue, not saying its fact, just what I have noticed, and you are comparing a r32 vs a r33. both my r33s are equivalent automatic turbo top spec models (hicas, diff etc), and I have also test driven and seen other peoples r33s over the years. My general feeling is the later models develop more wear and tear than the earlier models. Simple things like rubbers around window, engine bonnet rubber stoppers etc seem to wear quicker on the newer ones even though they are newer. Also Don't forget in 1996-97 Japan went through a financial crisis and there were major cutbacks on cost of production accross most manufacturers. Even if the parts are the same design, a different grade of steel and composition of the parts etc to save money when possible could lead to different wear rates.

Whilst I don't disagree with you, what I am getting on my 98 is definitely a bad transmission bush in addition to those things you mentioned or others. You can actually feel the weight of the entire transmission wallowing forward and back and I have a 93 to compare it to which doesnt do it anywhere near as much. I just want to eliminate bushes as much as possible so i wanted to know if the diff bushes are worth doing. If its slop in metal components then so be it. I have been under the car and turned the drive shaft and there is a fair bit of free play in that...? Having said that, my 1993 R33 GtS-t is a lot smoother than my my 1998 R33 of equal model. Almost no drivetrain slop, so its not really correct to think the "sum" of slop in metal components absolutely has to add up to that. I feel like the 93 is of much better build quality material wise than the 98. I have seen this common trend in the skylines and I have driven and seen over the years. The rubber bushes, metal parts etc and general wear tear, seem to hold up a lot better on the 1993 model, even though they are a lot older and have more Ks. What I mean is just a general sense the quality of parts in the 98 are not as good as the 93. Some examples. *Factory clear seems a lot thicker and longer lasting on 93 than 98. *Engine bonnet rubbers just fell apart on the 98 on the 93 they aren't as bad. *Rubbers around window hardened and fell apart a lot sooner on the 98 *I assume the same can be said for most rubber parts on the car. *Interior quality seems better on 93 *engine seems hardier and smoother on 93. *ditto to transmission and general drive train components.

Ok I'm willing to take the risk if you have already done it and it fits fine, but.... Surely that ebay mount can't be genuine for that price? Look at all the negative feedback as well. While Im getting the transmission mount replaced, is there any other bushes I can replace in the driveline that arent hard to change and could contribute to clunks and movement/moemntun in the driveline when going on gas/going off? I already know about the engine damper and was planning to fit one as soon as the new bushes go in but thanks for mentioning it as well.

Wow, wow, wow? Thanks a bunch for this information. So you are 100 % sure in saying I can order a regular ol' Manual only R33 Transmission mount such as this and It will fit on a 98 Auto? http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nismo-gearbox-mount-heavy-duty-nismo-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25-gts25t-r34-25gt-25gtt-gtv-5spd-p-87.html I actually contacted both Kudos and nengun about it and they both said nothing exist for the auto and I have to use a genuine part. Nengun was actually a bit rude about it, "no one races an auto" etc and didnt even bother giving a shipping quote when requested. Looks like I'll just order the part from kudos and let them know if anyone asks in the future the manual nismo fits the auto "Daniel Power replied: They were never made because its an automatic. No one ever races an auto around a track which the Nismo mounts were intended for. If there is anything else I can help you with please don't hesitate to contact me.Best Regards Dan We Now have the Greddy Boost con on sale http://www.nengun.com/greddy/profec-oled We have over 5.8 Million Used parts Online and In stock The largest New Parts Brands The Nengun Yahoo Auctions. We bring you all this with the lowest prices SEP 18, 2014 | 01:33AM JST Thanks for the quick reply.Do they even exist or were they never made? Do you have any other brand gearbox mounts for the Automatic ECR33 GTST that are similar to the Nismo items? Lastly, could you quote me your price including the postage for 2 Nismo engine mounts + a Genuine OEM gearbox mount, to my Adress in Australia. I don't need fast shipping so quote me the lowest price option. Thanks. SEP 18, 2014 | 09:10PM JST Daniel Power replied: Sorry we only have manual Nismo ones and can only obtain Genuine OEM factory Nissan for automatic models If there is anything else I can help you with please don't hesitate to contact me. Best Regards Dan We Now have the Greddy Boost con on sale http://www.nengun.com/greddy/profec-oled We have over 5.8 Million Used parts Online and In stock The largest New Parts Brands The Nengun Yahoo Auctions. We bring you all this with the lowest prices"

I've decided on the the Nismo mounts, they are not that much more expensive and i hate drivetrain slop. Normal mounts are made for comfort not holding things in place as well as possible. I just want a stiffer nismo mount for the gearbox.

Looking at replacing my motor and gearbox mounts. I have decided on Nismo mounts or equivalent but I cant seem to find anything but a genuine replacement for the rear gearbox mount? Does Anyone make one? I don't like the idea of having stiff mounts for the engine but a soft sloppy gearbox mount. Also does anyone know the where to get the the 4 rubber pads for the screws on the transmission cross member, I have 11248 as a part number but not sure they suit my car or where to get them. Car is a 1998 R33 GTS-T.

Found one.

Sydney. Will pick up. Thanks

Thanks for confirming that for me, thats exactly the type of answer I was after.

Thanks. I done that however the nut could not be tightened much further without me not feeling comfortable pushing the thread torque more. The tie rods did not move any further up just the force on the nut increased. I had to back out to fit the split pin again and relieve that amount of torque. However that said I tried to dislodged them downwards too as in the way you would remove them and I could not either. I did not want to hammer then outs with a massive amount of force in case something was not right. Its possible if the did not sit up all the way originally, from the force of driving around there was a groove dug into the metal. Anyway guess have to take it to a shop to have it checked out unless anybody from here is willing to have a look at it very very soon?