sonicz

Isn't this obvious? The s15 box was designed to go in a low powered low torque light weight car.

I guess my only question is how are people holding 300rwkw on the stock clutch plates? My Auto box cant hold lockup on anything past 6psi on boost. If I set the boost to 12 psi, anything more than a 1cm of pedal press results in massive transmission slipping and the car not accelerating. The engine seems to cut power and wait for the auto box to catch up and then bounces of the rev limiter until I release the accelerator, then it shifts and the process starts all over again. My car is 3x faster on the lowest 5psi than 12psi. Have I just been unlucky with my trans? I must've spend over $600 trying out various Automatic fluids and the thinner the fluid the less slip there is but its still useless.

Ok thanks guys thanks for clarifying that I saved myself hassle. Can I assume series 2 or 3 R33 auto box will work right off the bat on a S1 though?

I think thats likely the case. Though apparently there some r33s that came with 5 speed autos. RE5R01A.

I remember watching a doco on the GTR, and they said stress test every DSG box that they fit on a car on a special machine to make sure it works perfectly, on top of the strangest handbuild production methods. They stated they are the only manufacture in the world to do so. The only ones I have heard of breaking are the early model ones that were incorrectly "launch" controlled, and new ones that have to put up with over 1000hp of abusive driving. Aside from that, I have never heard of one ever breaking on a unmodified car. Though how would you even get it to work with the RB? The design is completely different from every perceptive.

I could have sworn i saw one on some UK skyline forum. maybe it wasn't OBD II but it was a hud unit wired in. I don't like GPS based units because they only update every 3 seconds or so and are always showing your speed from 3 seconds ago.

The temptation is I have found a very low Km auto box on still on a fresh r34 donor car for next to nothing. I can also pull the ECU TCU, AFM, steering wheel, gear selector, wiring loom etc off the car. A rebuild will send me way over my budget so I was wondering what it would take to get the 34 box working in the 33. Heck it would be cheaper to pull the neo motor off that car too compared to a single auto box rebuild. My r33 has no ABS or TCS so you you can scratch those off the list at least. I am definitely not paying for a rebuild as If I was spending that much I would do a manual conversion. IF the 34 box isn't an option I will buy a auto box off an r33 for $50 and fit that. Its a shame becayse they are next to impossible to find off a low km not abused car. If anyone locates one in syd area let me know.

But GPS units wont display revs indicators, lights etc. Surely someone has wired in one of the units on a skyline before?

What sort of modifications would I need to fit a R34 GTT Auto box into a series 1 R33 GTS-T Auto? I don't think a simple bolt in swap would work? So do I need the steering wheel, ECU and gearstick from the 34? Will an R34 neo engine ECU even work on a series 1 RB25DET? Just to clarify I don't need any of the tip tronic features. I just want a fresher auto box. The other issue is My R33 GTS-T seems to have a 5 speed auto. So I will be downgrading to 4 gears with the new box.

That wasn't my main reason for getting one, but now that you bring it up, what makes u so sure people aren't? If there was a way to determine what number of crashes are caused by people looking at their speedo I bet the number would be higher than you expect. It would certainly be higher than 0, a lot higher. Thats like saying just because looking at your phone while driving doesn't make you crash all the time there is no problem doing it. Drivers taking their eyes off the road is one of the leading causes of crashes.

Well I think ive seen it done so I know its possible. And the reason I want it is I dont have to take my eyes off the road. The bluebird had it btw and its one of the most best features of the car.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Universal-Heads-Up-Display-HUD-Vehicle-Mounted-Alarm-Speeding-Warning-OBD-II-/271252893321?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f27eeae89 If not can anyone recommend any others that are under $100?

Thanks.

Just looking for a place in syd I can take the car to stop the arches from rubbing around corners or when the suspension is compressed. Any recommendations and roughly how much it should cost. R33.

Exactly what GTSboy said. On top of worn bushes tie rods etc, there is just more components back there than a regular 2ws car so there's more things to "flex" under load. I have noticed almost all R33s have this loose feeling at the rear end, but personally I kind of like it. Instead of the car breaking traction as you would expect, you have a soft buffer zone where wheels turn a bit in the direction they are trying to break traction so you get a gentle shimmy than a whoosh spin out. I think its preferable on a road car.

I'm not that familiar with the inner workings of an AT. What I do know is I can feel G forces in a car, and what is happening increasing acceleration it halted somewhere down line of the engine. I dont think its normal for at transmission to be the limiting factor on acceleration. The following is a good anlogy of what i mean by direct enagement, Its kind of like wheel spin. When your wheels are not loosing traction, you have direct engagement with the road, but if you exceed a certain point and your wheels begin to slip, no matter how much HP your engine puts out, your acceleration will be limited. Solution is to get more grip on the tyres, not giving the engine more HP. The same thing is happening here. Ive owned a few 300HP+ AT cars. I know in my mazda (200,000ks+ and previous owner never changed At fluid) I had the same problem. Mechanics said box works fine. they just drive it, checks if it shifts smoothly and that is all. Doh! But I knew it wasnt. I was lucky enough to find a brand new box for $2000 during a mazda warehouse clearance and had it fitted. The car felt like it double the power. No more slip.

My bad. Well while we're on the topic. Its Difficult to address what you raised unless you know exactly what I mean. The car is not revving out at all. In fact it begins to stall and shifts like a brand new box. The problem is there isn't a direct engagement between the Engine and wheels like there should be under WOT, or even 1/4 throttle sometimes. I am not talking about the first few seconds or pulling out of the driveway. After a certain point when pressing the accelerator the car stops continuing to accelerate and starts to shudder back and forth a bit. By this I mean the increasing rate of acceleration as engine RPM rises, halts. The car obviously still picks up speed in this state, but it would look like the powerband has flattened out on a dyno at 3000rpm but its not due to lack of power from the engine doing it. I hope you get what I mean by all this. In addition, I think the ECU backs of timing or lessens power output depending on the state of the transmission and even when the clutch it slipping. I can also feel it cutting power in between shifts. This is normal, but it seems to confuse people to think the transmission works and sfhits normally, whereas I can easily detect when there isn't direct engagement. Its like if you held the clutch at 3/4 lock in a manual car and as soon as you felt slip backed of the throttle and kept it there. Its not right.

If thats the case then what reason do I have not to run low fluid in current box? This was the main point of the thread really. It solves my problem and if It breaks as a result, well I needed a new AT anyway. Do you follow? Also which way should the dipstick should be facing when inserted to check the oil level? The is a kink on the top of the dipstick, if you face if left when looking at the front of the car the fluid level is MUCH higher than if you face it right. Try it out if you dont beleive me. I am checking the level with the car fully warmed up on a level surface with the engine running and the car in P gear. Dipshit facing left, higher fluid reading. Dipshit facing right - lower fluid reading

That still doesnt answer if the cltuch plates are in the torque convert or the inside of the transmission.

Hi. I'm having a problem with my stock rb25det auto box slipping. I am 99.9% sure the culprit it worn out burned out clutch plates. Are you saying If I simply swap out the torque converter and keep my box I will have a fresh set of clutch plates? This is good news if that is the case.

I'm in sydney. How much will as shift kit cost me? I don't think their is a point fitting a shift kit to this box. Does anyone sell an auto box with a shift kit already installed, and if so, how can I be guaranteed of the condition? When I got the car the auto box already had a ton of KM, and it was VERY low on oil because of a leaking auto fluid cooler. I feeel like If I had the car from new it would have lasted me 20+ years as I regualry change oil, and try to go easy on it If I feel a problem. Kind of like Im the guy that was in the room when the light bulb blew when i hit the switch for the 10000s time. I only run up to 13 psi max anyway with minor mods. I was always told the nissan boxes are very tough..Dont get me wrong it still shifts beautifully it just cant get a grip on itself under higher loads. By the way for someone who asked, its a s1 rb25det auto box so most likely a re4ro1a

Well I don't know if fully synthetic dex 6 is bad for it? My reasoning is since it seems to have the lowest viscosity so its the most likely not to slip? The clutches are definitely cooked. It never used to do this a year ago. Too many downshift from WOTs and it seems the clutches coudlnt hold on and they started to wear out. The transmission can still hold on fine at stock boost, i.e zero slip, but it starts to slip at higher than 10psi. Is there any way just to change the clutch plates? I actually tried Nulon Synth S a few days ago. Just a drain and top up, so not all of it is changed. It seems a bit thicker than Dex 6? My impression so far is the slip has reduced and the shifts are nicer. hmm. That said it could be just the fact the fluid has been refreshed. I have dropped the Pan and put a new filter kit and gasket on there. There was minimal debris on the magnet, next to negligent. So it looks like I have no choice but to try a new auto box, or convert to manual. Unless somoene can replace the clutches for me for something reasonable under $500. The rest of the tranny does not need a rebuild. Also I feel like the mounts on the car and tranny are a bit sloppy, could this cause the transmission to tilt under load at a bad angle and cause slip? I was looking at getting all poly bushes for engine and transmission. I'm ok with increased cabin vibration.

You mean matic s? Felt like dex 6 Is thinner thus would get me less slip. Rebuild costs 1000s. May as well do manual conversion. New auto box can be had for almost nothing. I just not confident the other AT will be any better than mine. A transmission specialist had a drice in mine and said the box works perrectly which is hilarious since its slipping like in snow mode under boost. It works perfectly under light load though. Do ypu really think matic s is worth a shot...?

I've been struggling with automatic clutch transmission slippage for a while now. Dexron 6 definitely works better than dex 3 compatible oils for slippage issues. Shifts are a bit harder but there is less slip.However, after about 1/4 acceleration the clutch is no longer fully engaged and it begins to slip under the power of the engine and thus increasing acceleration is halted. notcied the problem is less pronounced when the car is cold, leading me to believe rising fluid due to temperate causes more and more slip. I changed the auto trans fluid and this time left about 1 litre of oil missing from the auto transmission. The transmission doesn't slip at all. Shifts are rougher but thats a result of less slip which I want. I drove for 2 days no problem. I topped it up to the normal recommended about and the slip is back. Can anybody comment on this? I'm considering running low amount of oil permanently. The oil level is about the point of little kink on the dipstick, just showing up barely at all. Yes I check the level with the car running in P when warmed up. S1 R33 GTS-T

Just thought id add these guys probably mean dump the oil and replace it with fresh one. Not just dump it and leave it empty