sonicz

Anyway scotty, in regards to the "thousands of threads and how tos on the matter", I had a look at about 3 guides and none of them seemed to state needing to mount the fuel pump lower. Nor did they mention the horizontal vs vertical position of the fuel filter. That said, I have seen a lot of people say," my walbro is noisy", or "yeh they like to gurgle lol" etc, so it may not be as common knowledge as you think. I bet lots of people are monting it high not knowing about it. So heres how I re done it. I grabbed a piece of radiator hose about the same diameter as the pump, cut it to size and slipped it over the pump. I used some vasoline to help it slide on good. This not only reduces noise, vibration, but also isolates the outside of the pump electrically just in case, as opposed to sitting bare on the metal frame with a metal clamp etc. I used one clamp to hold the pump as low down as I could. The rubber keeps it very grippy. The result is very good, the pump now sucks almost as low down as the stocker and is inaudible I also cleaned all the contacts with Q-tips so they come out fresh instead of covered in carbon and oil and filth from years of exposure. They contacts were literally black when I pulled it out. It could be the reason why so many people get low voltage issues as well with the stock wiring. Hope that helps someone.

A tested to be working unit would be nice.

Will it help much if I just ground the earth wire to the chassis, but leave the stock wiring in there?

I was told heat-shrink is NOT petrol resistant. My crimps are fairly strongly pressed in. They should be ok. I don't know what a surge cup is. The bottom of the original bracket where the stocker sat on a piece of rubber has been cut of, and the new bare pump with filter attached is just hanging down on the lower end of the metal piece held in with metal hose clamps. I will mount it really low tomorrow and see how far down I can get it with a single clamp. By the way The stock petrol pump on my GTST was a huge jecs. Its easily twice the size of the new one. Are people sure these tiny fuel pumps flow more than the stock? I never had any problems with the stocker. TBH im not sure if it was worth it. Furthermore I'm being told the new pump needs to run at 14v whereas the stock made to run fine at 12, so it needs a direct battery feed mod. Furthermore the stock computer reduces teh voltage to 9c when at idle, further complicating matters. I wonder if that would cause a stalling issue when easing of the throttle at low speeds, at the lights etc. I just bolted mine to the stock wiring. I wouldn't be surprised if with this set-up the stock pump is ironically better. And if you have to bump up the voltage for the new pump by rewiring, then it just begs the question how much better the stock pump would have flowed if that had new wiring as well. Bloody mods...

You can tuck the turbo timer under your dash where the wheel is, but I dont think a turbo timer is a defect.

Good to hear, but I'm not sure about having no oxygen. When you working on the fuel pump you have the lid at the top open so plenty of air gets in. You could be unlucky enough to have a perfect air fuel mixture in there for the first few moments after you put the pump and close it all up. Even during normal operation when the tank is say half full, whats the other half made of? It would be air but you are saying this air has no oxygen in it? The system could also have a leak in it etc. I've seen plenty of skylines that don't hiss when you open the petrol cap. Anyway I took the pump out to have a proper look at it, it seems the cause it the filter with my new pump is HORIZONTALLY mounted instead of vertically. This makes reach way less down, in addition to the filter being much smaller anyway. Is there any reason I cannot mount the new pump as low as I can? I mean like almost pressing against the bottom of the tank low? Does anyone know if red bendy vacuum hoses material is petrol proof. I was going to put some silicone around the wires but I herad silicone will break down in petrol over time!

Ok. I will try mount it lower tomorrow. Though I don't see how a pump can not like sucking up a hose or not as you say? If there is a longer hose there it will suck it up just like any other pump. They just don't come with a hose and filter long enough to have the same reach as the stock is the way I see it. One last question. I used crimps to join the pump to the existing wiring. They are pressed tight but not shrink wrapped. Any change of them causing a spark and going kaboom? I will add chemical resistant shrink wrap to them tomorrow. I hope jaycar has em.

Theres only so low I can mount it. If I want to match the original length I have to cut bottom part of the metal mounting bracket that the pump normally sits on and hang it off with just one hose clamp? The car is a R33 GTS by the way GTRSean. The guage definitely has not changed, Like I said I know the car has 10+ litres left inside and this pump just cant get to it that the stocker would have easily

The pump came with a filter the size of a matchbox. exactly this big The original pump filter was about the size of a adult male shoe. maybe 5 times as long. How can I make the new one fit as deep unless I try use the old filter?

Fuel pump? Electrical interference coming from your speakers? I have had both of these in a r33.

I just put a walbro gs432 style fuel pump in today. The car left me stranded on the road immediately after a test drive because I ran out of fuel, but with the stock fuel pump I had easily another 100km of driving left in it. I could pull up to a servo and fill up with 55L of petrol with my original fuel pump. With the new pump I imagine I lost about 10L of that figure (The gauge wasn't even below the last marker before it stalled) Is there any way to modify an aftermarket pump to have the same reach as the stocker?

My series 1 R33 turbo has neither cruise control or electric retractable mirrors. By this I mean you can adjust the angle of the mirror lense only with the buttons, but cannot fold the mirrors back unless you do it by hand My dads series 2 R33 turbo has no cruise control either, but has the electric retractable mirrors. Personally I have never seen a a skyline parked with its mirrors folded back so I assumed it was a rare option. If there is do you really want to know about it lol?

Ok here is an update to the matter in case its useful to anyone. I went to another sau member place (500hp) and after some testing he isolated the likely culprit is the AIR flow meter. With the air flow meter unplugged, the car held 15 btdc timing fine. Unplugging the other sensor, TPS, aac vavle, etc did nothing to to affect the irrational timing. Plug the AFM back in, car shuts of, upon restart the timing is jumping around again. So I will try get another AFM and see if that fixes the issue. Hopefully it fixes the 02 sensor being all over the place too. Ok I understand exactly what you mean now. I had a look at the drive on both camshaft and cas end and they a are both fine. A half moon piece of metal shaking hands with the opposite other. I think I have a problem because the timing should not be jumping around like crazy at idle. I have tested other cars and they hold steady timing fine at idle and above. Unplugging the TPS doesn't change it. I am now definitely satisfied mine is abnormal. I really appreciate that. I just managed to try another members cas and it was still jumping around, but in his car minutes ago the same cas wasn't. So yes you are correct it isnt the cas. As above it seems the AFM is the culprit.

No, But I'm not sure when the timing belt was done last time. Could it be loose? I'll get a flash light and take some pics tomorrow down the hole. I don't even know how a cam gear wears out ffs. Ill try video the car while driving as well.

Something is more likely to break or crack with rose joints IMO. There's more much brittleness in the parts compared to a bush. Also debries can get in there and they probably wont last as long as a bush. Why not get the best of both worlds?

? Whats wrong with that? Its just a cas. I've seen people even lend stuff for free to clear defects here on sau. You can charge me to rent it out if you want, hourly daily, by the minute etc. I only need a few minutes. Also the nissan consult thing is easy. Its just a plug that dangles from your foot area. I'll read your fault codes for free eh?

So no one is willing to let me hook up their series 1 to consult or better yet try their cas?? I don't want to have to buy another cas, this time a $500 new brand new one. I may as well buy another r33 at the rate fixing this car is costing me...

Meh. You make it sound like theres a huge difference between 9 and 12 on a stock GTST. I feel like I can have a cup of coffe while at WOT on 12 psi in my gtst. That said I find even the speed of stock GTRs boring these days. When I was younger I was like whoa, now its more like, get a move on you POS

I don't have the adjustable ones, just the solid whiteline non adj ones. I don't trust the look of caster rods. They look like I can break them with my foot. Is the extra caster really that good? Why don't nissan run more of it from factory? Does it wreck any suspension geometry? I dont have a problem with buying a $100 adj caster rods but I'm not sure what the point is..

1.So a new cam gear? How does a star drive flog out anyway...and how do I check it. 2.Highly possible the 2nd CAS is faulty too. The fact that it performs better than mine tells me it has a lot do with the cas. 3.So New wiring harness? 4.Damaged Shielding to what? Don dada, yea the car is up to temp. I've got the CAS adjusted roughly the same, and it still has the issues whether its advanced or retarded. Here is a vid of my orginal CAS again Notice its a lot more erratic than the new cas. If there is a fault with one CAS it seems likely another identically manufactured cas of the same age and condition can develop a similar problem.

Thanks man. Doh I forgot to add ball joints to my cart. Now I have to pay again for postage. Is there anything else when doing the front bearings I can change in working in that vicinity I am forgetting? So far I have -New tie rod ends -New Front wheel bearings Whiteline Polyurethane Radius rod bushes (I don't want rose jointed caster rods) -Soon to order new Ball joints http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/kudos-motorsports-ball-joint-front-rear-outer-lower-nissan-200sx-s14-s15-skyline-r32-2wd-front-only-r33-2wd-r34-2wd-p-214.html -Still undecided If I should order the adj Camber arms. Did I miss anything? See that pic you reposted with the Orange arms. What are those bushes in the upper control arm. The ones between the black bits you said are marked with an "L" Lastly, the car will be jacked up at the centre of the front cross-member with a hydraulic jack, and I will have 2 jack stands on the front only. So your saying before I torque any bolts that connect to bushes, I should place a seperate wind up jack underneath the lower control arm, and raise it until the whole hub assembly sits about where it would at ride height?

Hmm, does anyone know if adding longer tie end rods will give you more lock? In a similar way adding steering rack spacers does. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/164067-steering-rack-bushes/page-2

Its a possibility. But I couldn't "look" for that to save my life. I wouldn't know where to start, and it doesn't sound like a good idea to just take it to an auto electrification who been working on commodores for the past 40 years and pay them by the hour to check something they have no clue about? Anyone tuner in syd familiar with the car and wiring and these types of "tuning" issues that would have a look at it without wanting an arm and a leg? With the new CAS i got today, the car definitely has much much more grunt down low. So it has made a difference. But I really want to find another s1, check that the timing is stable, and put that cas in my car to check if it ok. Free pizza, any topings in syd to anyone who lets me do that

No it seems to idle just fine, no more "hunting" than any other RB25 i've seen, even less in fact. It looked like it holds 15 for those few seconds, but that was just a lucky streak. If I left it for a bit longer it would have been back to its old ways At the higher RPM it seems to hold the timing ok, certainly better down low where the problems are. I'll try get a friend to record the laptop whilst I actually go for a drive.

My timing was jumping around by big numbers in just few seconds. I figured it was my CAS, so I made a WTB thread and ordered another unit from a SAU member. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424325-wtb-rb25det-cas/ The new unit arrived today, although the timing is a bit more stable than with my CAS, its still jumping around. Do I have my hands on 2 faulty CAS or is could it be something else? I need a definite yes or no answer if this is normal behaviour for a R33 GTST-t Series 1. I have used the same diagnostic gear on other skylines, but only series 2 rb25s, and they seemed to hold 15 just fine. Anyone have a S1 R33 willing to let me hook up the nissan consult to it?