sonicz

Looks like normal over/under spray to me. Those areas don't have the same paint QA for the final coat as the exterior so some variation between cars is ok. That said the unpainted washers on your fender bolts aren't original though...

Ah k so, Take the hub asembly out at home, take it to a shop with a press, and get them to press the old out and new in then? Any recommendations in syd with a press? Yea I was going to order online from kudosmotorsport or justjap. I take it both have good reps?

Lol That was fast. I asked essentially the same thing got shit all answers. "What is the easiest way to fit brand new quality bearings on my car?. I will be doing it with a friend. Hes changed bearings before on a few times on standard cars, Starlet bluebird etc," http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/423302-had-both-front-hubs-control-arms-replaced-problems-now-worse-no-more-money-diy/ Guess I need to just cut the fluff and get to the point. So a hammer and a piece of wood wont do it then? Are you going genuine Nissan bearings?

Have you tried your spare key, and keep inserting it in and out whilst applying anti clockwise force, it should eventually let you get in. from wear and tear the keys wear out. If not, take off the plastic around the inside door handle, it just pops off, and try pull the cables from there.

Yea i figured its not meant to hold the weight, but worst case scenario its only cosmetically bent sills right, no loss in rigidity, bent frame etc? Any idea what all the popping noises were then... I got my hands on a proper torque wrench. I'll be taking of my control arms soon to replace the bearings.Anyone know the torque specs for the bolts around that area. Lastly, after I'm done putting new bearings in and torquing the control arms, where can I take the car to get the body bolts tightened? My previous car, a much nicer mazda, one of the services the dealership, provided was "chassis bolt tightening". The car felt new again, insta response like a go kart, whereas previously it was sloppier. Thats how my R33 feels atm, like jelly. As for your questions, he was there about 20 minutes. He checked the right stuff as far as we knew, key barrel, etc but he worked very very fast and roughly, scraping plastics, jacking cars up by the wing so to speak. He got me going by telling me to bridge the starter motor while the key is on "reds". Thats how I drove it for a while.

Thanks for the offer. I'm in Syd but. Ah yea The AC clutch probably is the cause then. I assume its is inside the compressor and has nothing to do with how the belt/pulley system is operating? If its going to cost that much I may as well just leave it alone and just replace the entire AC compressor if anything goes wrong. As for tightening belts, I ordered a set of gates belts from here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GATES-DRIVE-BELT-SET-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-GTST-RB25DET-/110916206167?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d31efe57 The Alt belt 4pk855 that came with it, my mechanic said it was too long. So I had to buy a separate 4pk 845. Its Almost at maximum tight adjustment, still squealing when I start the car after a few hours. I tighten it more, it stops for a few days, and starts again. I have no idea what could possibly cause a brand new, shorter than recommended belt to sequel. There is no oil there. I keep tightening the belt every few days and its tight as. Ah well I figure if its loose enough to be squealing the bearings should be fine.

Yea I guess so but I've only recently turned my attention to this and I'm new to it all. I took it to a wheel shop about the problem. Got them to fit another set of my own supplied control arms and hubs and they said they'll fit hubcentreic spacers on it but when I got the car home it was just loose aluminium plates with universal holes to fit the studs on them. I only need about 10mm extra clearance on top of stock hubs so the rim spokes dont hit the brakes. http://www.isc-performance.com/oilcoolers.html These look huge. Got to hear. Damn your luck

He had a second smaller red jack in the van as well. I didn't see any jack stands. I'm well aware the rust was there beforehand. I would like to get rid of the rust either way, but what I'm saying is I'm pretty sure the area wasn't bent in. Its hard to see in the pics but if you get a first person look you can see a fist sized indentation inward. I don't think that single side jacking point is designed to support almost the entire weight of the car? Couldn't he just have jacked up the front of the car in the middle of the cross member. Thats how I do it. Yes I know some idiot has had the car badly resprayed, but I traced it back to only a few years ago when the car and and remarkably clean and looked after (saw pics). The rest of the car is in good nic for its age. In hindsight was the starter motor wiring anyway. Jacking it up was unnecessary

Looks very cool and professional. What are all those buttons on the right? Cruise control, fog lamps? where is your mirror adjustment knobs. Are electric foldable mirrors a rare option on r33s?

I've been under the car about 5-10 times before that and I remember both sides being about the same as the other side picture I posted, normal "wear and tear". So I'm fairly sure it was from that event but of course cant be 100%. When you say how many jacks are there I assume you think there is something more to the pic you can see? There isn't. The 3 wheels are of the ground from that single jacking point you can see, the only wheel still on the ground is the rear right. Anyway the car is no pretty baby, I am not all worried about cosmetically bent sills. What worries me is as he was jacking it I hear POp POP Pop. I'm not sure if it was my strut bar but now every time I jack up my car properly down the cross-member and go for a drive afterwards there is creaks and pops before it settles again.

You cant see any extra support because there isn't any. It was a mobile mechanic that was called out to diagnose a non start problem. He seemed to be working ultra fast so he just put the jack on the side, and kept jacking jacking jacking... Thanks for the info. I've never had to deal with rust on a car before. How far would I have to scrape the rust of? All the way Until I see nothing but bare fresh steel? Just keep digging on the finger width rusted section or everywhere around the rust? Wouldn't spraying degreaser stop the primer from sticking to it? Also how long would something like that take to rust through and if left for say for a further 5-10 + years would it cause an issue. Lastly would there be any structural damage from jacking the car like that? Chassis feels pretty loose even though I've asked several mechanics to tighten chassis bolts etc

That was months ago. Yea thats pretty much 3 wheels of the ground. I got under the car over the weekend and I noticed the side where he jacked it up looks like the hulk punched it in. And theres rust around. Any idea what to do about stopping the rust from spreading under there? The right side of the car he didn't touch The left jacked up side.

How long can these charcoal canisters possibly last and be effective? The charcoal will eventually stop absorbing stuff.

Mechanic that put in the belt says its fine. But it never used to do it . I had a look at the AC whilst a friend enagaged/disengaed it. It doesn't look like the belt is slipping upon engagement but rather something else in the AC compressor pulley system is grinding to get up to speed of the belt. I guess I just have to live with it and wait for the AC to possibly break and then replace it with a new one cos I have no idea what else to do besides tighten the belt, which is at maximum adjustment as it is.

Iv'e had this same issue with the same car since I bought the car. I've changed radius rod bushes. Got new tyres. Balanced them. Twice. Dad 3x Front and Back Wheel alignments. Still have the problem. I'm thinking its the aluminium spacers on the wheels. They just fit looselely over the studs and move around until you bolt the wheel in place. Obviously causing balance issues. I need to find a way to stick spacers perfectly to the back of the wheel instead of the hubs. OR better, does anyone know of any spacers that fit Perfectly centre on the stock GTS-t hubs?

He needs to set the fuel pressure with the fpr vacuum hose detached right?

What? I thought they ECUs were a neural net processor, a learning computer. I.e they were A.I and had personalities.

The mechanism that controls rear turning has a ball-joint the same as the tie end rods at the front. Kind of like a chicken leg. These wear out over time. On others cars it doesn't seem to be much of a problem. But The two R33s I have (I convinced by dad to buy one) Both of them had funny rear toe settings when we got them. As in one wheel was out of whack to the other. Hicas problem or poor wheel misalignment, I don't know. If I gave the car some power around a corner to try break rear traction, I felt like the rear wheels bent which everway the force pushed them before breaking traction, then I would hear a deep clunk, kind of like the chicken bone tie rod popped out and in again as the force was being applied and ease of again. After I had a wheel alligment done (I run neg .05-1mm toe in on the back) the problem is mostly gone. but my point is with the sloppiness of the R33s rear, its possible these tie rods wear out a lot and eventually can become loose enough to pop out. I also had my front tie end rods at the front replaced on my car, The old ones I had taken out were clunky and had lots of play. I don't know how far they were from popping out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-OUTER-TIE-ROD-END-FOR-NISSAN-R32-89-94-2WD-R33-95-98-2WD-R34-99-04-/251028114720?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a72710d20&vxp=mtr I should probably look into replacing the tie rods at the back as well, but I'm not sure what kind of tie rods they run. Hopefully we can get some more information here.

I thought the stock ECU could handle up to 10-12 psi no mods or piggy bak needed.

Cable guide Mechanism for the fuel cap opener or antenna? Just guessing.

Oh man its gonna be a high power or clean and original skyline fest. Can you still show up if your car is neither I could attend for a bit of a laugh.

Interestingly I definitely felt improved power output going to the yellow-jackets over the stock coils even though I had no issues with the stock coils. But then again I also indexed the new plugs I put in by facing them toward the intake ports. Ergh if they are so cheap why did I blow ~$500 on yellowjackets If I could get these MSD blasters for that price? Any info/links?

I got some questions lol. How do you know you needed to change the bearings? My drive belts were working fine but a little old. I decided to have all 3 replaced with new gates ones. My mechanic did all 3. When I got the car back, if the AC engages at higher than 2000prm, there is a loud chirp sound. It doesn't sound like a belt squeal, more like a gear grinding. For example. I go to my car in the morning Start the car with AC on. It ticks over with the regular "tick: sound as soon as the car starts. AC is running. I give the car a fair bit of gas to take of quick out of the kerb. RB goes prruururuRUURURMRMRMR, then I hear a TURRRRCHHHehco through the street because of the AC. Sounds like its doing damage. I think its because soon as I take of and go past 4000rpm, the ECU will turn of the AC as normal, then turn it back on and thats when it makes the noise. Its normal for the ECU to turn the AC of at higher RPM but I never used to hear the noise before. Lastly which bearing type is ishttp://www.bearings.uk.com/acatalog/6301_Bearing.html

2 sparking points on them? Horrible spark plugs. Go to autobahn or repco and get some bcpr5es-11 or bcpr6es-11 if your running higher than stock boost and your problems should go away.

Your welcome to try mine for compassion and plug the computer in your car. I found out having an aftermarket steering wheel stops hicas from working so I gotta unbolt and unplug the hicas computer in the boot anyway. The bigger of the two wires has to stay plugged in though I think to disable hicas but not make the power steer go hard? Mine is a S1 ECR33 as well going by your dispay pic. Looks remarkably similar to yours. I think the rims are the same too lol.