sonicz

Something I have never heard anyone else say, but I have found purely from personal experience is worn wheel bearings (even the tiniest play) can cause brake squeal because it allows the rotor to move imperfectly in relation to the brake pads. This causes uneven wear and after a while a squeel. If someone is out of options its worth changing your wheel bearings, machining your rotors, installing new pads and seeing if the noise goes away.

But I've seen people specifically looking for these to fit to their R33s that didn't come with it, like most series 1s? How do these people fit it and more importantly do they all buy ones that have been cut open? I guess thats good news since cutting it somewhere in the middle of the belt slide hole so it can be re used is the easy way out. Is there a way to lock it in place facing down, I could live with that, I just hate it staring me in the side of the head. I'm ok if it stays down.

You copped a feel bro? Sick!

You know the little plastic arm that hands you the seat belt? Well my S2 R33 has it and I hate it. Sure its great when you reaching back to get the belt, but when driving its staring me right in the eye when I look to my right and I find it scary. Needs to go. I took out the bolt that holds the seat belt, but all I saw was about one thousand washers and no way to get the extender out, at least not through the bottom because of the little plastic cap in the seat belt. Do I need to remove the whole seat belt and take the plastic side interior back panels out to get the darn thing out? I could cut it but I think some people may find these useful so its going for sale if anyone wants it.

pussy

I was looking at buying an engine damper for my Skyline. However had a look at where the damper mounts to the engine, and based on the pics it seems to mount somewhere on the head of the engine. I thought Engine Dampers are usually mounted close to the engine mounts, i.e the support would be on the block, not on the head. It got me thinking, wouldn't this cause extra stress to the head bolts on the side its mounted and cauld cause a failure or damage under hard shifting conditions? Sort of like trying to Pry open the head from the block with a pry bar?

They have better grip than the compound would indicate. When the tyre shop pulled them out and I stick my finger on it I was a little "uhh" as well, but I they are grippier than I expected, and certainly the grippiest tyre you can get for $120 by a long shot. I dont think you would be unhappy for the price if you did try them.

Are they compatible with the stock swaybar though? No point upgrading sway bar links if the sway bar is soft. I guess the stock ones are horrible and I should look for a complete swaybar kit anyway, but that is about $600 compared to $55. I'll have a look at if anyone is selling used swaybars, since they dont wear out I should be able to get 2 used swaybars and new sway bar links for cheaper.

Id probably guess that too. Though its worth mentioning they would handle differently on a skyline, especially due to the high neg camber on most skylines. I also keep my psi lower than most people, wheel shop had it set to 42 psi which I did notice the ATRs gave me some understeer. I set it to about 34psi which is what I prefer and they were good after that.

The boot has holes for the 2 metal brackets to hold a much larger battery. You can fit pretty much any battery in there, the hardest part is getting it to fit the small terminals stock. I went to supercheap and got some battery terminal adapters which are the normal sized aussie bigger round ones, and boolted them to the side of the stock car terminals, and then the adapter to the battery. Works great.

Cool story bro (no sarcasm intended). Always like to hear first hand opinions. Now I just wonder how these compared to the Achilles ATR sport? I had these fitted to my R33 for $120 a tire (fitted) at Big O tyres in Hurstville, 19inch 255s. I was not expecting much from this cheap brand, but I was pleasantly surprised and have absolutely loved them (a year into it). They are super silky, absorb bumps great that you feel like you are gliding over the ground with magnets, zero sidewall flex, but the best part is the grip is amazing. Wet or dry they just hold. http://www.1010tires.com/tires/Reviews/Achilles/ATR+Sport Now my second R33 is coming up to a new tyre set change and don't know whether to go with the Achilles which I know are great, but are these Momos better is the question?....:S

I vaguely know someone that works at nissan parts. I'll call them and ask if he can order the part numbers. How much did you pay for yours? Then take them to my mechanic, and hope he knows how to do it.. Sway bar links, never done those, are these ok? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/251689653517?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps only $55 (keeping costs down is a priority) Or should I go on the hunt for aftermarket ones? These Taiwanese made parts don't seem to last as long as stock, as my outer tie rods wore out in a year or two and the stock ones lasted 20. I have hard race rear camber control arms, as they were the only brand aside from stock that have rubber instead of rose joints and I was very happy. They settled the back real nice and allowed me to have the camber set to a more reasonable level than the stock parts. Why is the stock rear camber so negative anyway. Wears out the tyres on the inside while the rest of the tread is good and makes gripping dangerous in the wet. I also have more grip in the dry to when set at 0.9 negative camber compared to the stock with was about 1.6 (too much imo)

Yes R33 GTST. Thanks. I will try hunt them down. I'm guessing the whole hub assembly has to come out, and then is it a hard job? I'm also getting the mechanic to change the bearings while he's at it. Is there anything else that is easily changed while doing this particular job?

Whats the best way to get this ball joint replaced? I found out have a little play in mine, maybe a few mm, and I cant find any replacement parts. It doesn't seem to affect anything as its pressed down with the car on the ground but when I go over bumps I think its making a small clunk.

I've also got 2 front complete hub assembly I'll give you for... $15 each? (normally cost $100+) so If you got your hands on two rear 5 stud hubs which are cheap you could do a 5 stud conversion.

Ok . I'll get them out one of these days and take some pics and put them on sau and gumtree for $500. Anyone wants to PM me from here in the meantime they are welcome to. Wheels are in Sydney, very Outer Western suburbs..

Thanks. I figured they would feel good on the car due to their extremely light weight, but they are pretty ugly to drive around in compared to a "nice" set of rims. I didn't realize people would pay $500 for them? Are you saying they are sought after in any way for this reason? Since I don't really see myself having the money to spend on things like track days for the foreseeable future and need to start getting rid of stuff, where do you think is the best place to find a buyer for them? I'd rather not have to get them out to take pics if there is no interest for them. Do they move at all on SAU forums? $500 is good, would sell today, even $400 is good enough. Ebay, sau, gumtree? IS there a place I can drive them to and sell them at?

Sorry, they are of a 1998 R33 GTS-T. So they are your standard silver 16inch 5 stud aluminum rims. They are so light you can lift one with a pinky. I got them with the car from the previous owner who got them as part of the purchase as well. They look exactly like this but no tires on them. I had a look good look at them before I packed them away in the shed and all 4 seemed in very good nick. No dents. They haven't been used probably for a decades and the car they came with was completely stock automatic 40th anniversary edition, not even a boost controller fitted or signs of any mods.

Hi Guys I have a set of 4 original rims in very good condition. I will probably never use them unless they make the car perform great due to their light weight, so if I decide to sell them any idea how much they are worth? I don't want to take then out of the bags in the shed to take pictures, but they are pretty unused. Is there any place I can take them to who will buy them off me?

say yes dn14

Ok, now pop the car in neutral and tell us if it still happens when you are moving into a turn. That will tell you a lot.

Nah bro, more timing is hektik. Thats why its called an advance, and running less is just retarded

Yes that could be it as well, though if that were the case would it not happen and bog down at any speed? Say if you were to pop the car in neutral while driving? I went into the specifics I did because I've dealt with the exact same problem and got all sorts of talk about AFRs and injectors, intakes and electronic aspects which I found strange as the car did not exhibit any of the problems expect when at very low speeds and then stopping which led me to believe it was drive train problem the ecu was not expecting. I could feel the car holding gear too long when slowing down and the gear not disengaging properly to allow the torque converter to work and staling the engine. I changed the gearbox mount and flushed the transmission (it was low when checked as well) and it solved the problem completely. Cleaning the AAC vavle and advancing timing helped a lot at making the car hold good idle rpm faster as well before I did the above and almost eliminated the problem though it was not the root cause. As for advancing the timing I agree its dangerous, but based on my experience (not that it means much) most rb25 skylines have a large safety margin when it comes to advancing the timing via the CAS. I.e most are running colder plugs than they should, running richer than they should, and I have never noticed noticed a stockish one pinging after a small advance. By small i mean just turn the cas maybe a few mm. When he said he has no BOV I assumed he means he just has a stock skyline with the stock BOV, not no BOV. With slightly advanced timing the car just responds to changes in RPM much faster and was better at catching the stall in my case. After I found out what the problem was and went back to stock 15 degrees timing but just hated it and kept it a little advanced. I know people that keep the cas at full advance and nothing sounds like its pinging. Why is the stock timing so low on RB25s anyway. OP we need more info, does it happen when you come to a complete standing still, and can you prevent the stall but quick;y popping the car in neutral when you feel it about to stall?

I'm pretty sure I know what you are talking about. When you come to a stop after being at speed say above 40kph, the engine just dies very peacefully at the moment the car stops. You are close when you suspect it has to do with the transmission. I'm at almost 100% certain it is due to a malfunction in the automatic transmission where the "clutch" does not disengage gear fast enough to allow the engine to keep turning with the wheels stopped, and thus stalls it. The malfunction will be due to wear in the auto box or old fluid or a low fluid level or most likely all of these. Saggy transmission mounts can also cause the transmission to "stick" for longer than it should so get that looked at as well. Here is my recommendation to you and I'm almost certain it will fix your problem. Change your automatic transmission fluid with Nulon synthetic. Do a complete flush, as in take out the line that feeds out of the transmission cooler back into the transmission and let the car run pouring out waste fluid while someone tops up fluid until new fluid starts coming out. Then drop the pan clean the pan and magnet and filter. You can buy a gasket set from repco for $50. Top up again with the car In park and keep checking fluid level to be on H mark with car warm. Clean Your AAC valve. Advance your timing a little bit.

I'm in, but send me a pm here and I'll give you my number, I dont really use facebook.