sonicz

Nope, I've had 2 completely stock sets die, each set lasting about 2-3 months of E85 use. The original + a stock used set, all died a slow one by one death. I think I read something about the Series 1 constantly sending 12 power to the injector loom even when the car is off, which i turn causes corrosion of the internals of the injector, but was later changed not to do this in later series, maybe series 2?. If anyone can confirm or deny would be great. I have a set that were on their way out to the point the car barely ran, i.e at least 3 of them will be dead. If you have the means to found out what is wrong with them I can send the entire set of 6 you free of charge, bar the cost of postage. Maybe we can split that as I very curious to know what the cause of death is. I never bothered to find out.

Could be a injector doing that for sure. Stuck open or not right. Has the car ever been run on Ethanol gas? Ive had this exact same issue with ethanol many a few times. I Learned Stock R33 injectors just seem to die on ethanol within a few months, no idea exactly why.

Yup Doctor Neo Cortex has a pretty big head.

Everything is for sale as pictured. So one of them has a tyre the other 3 don't. But its not worth keeping. Even if they all came with tyres you should replace old tyres that have been sitting around anyway. I think the size of the stock wheels are 225/50/16

Price drop, everything 20% off. Make some offers.

Adam I'm not sure if you really are this ignorant, or your trolling, but you do realise that you are being given sarcastic answers because questions you are asking are so obscenely stupid, right? The answer is No you should not change your AFM or injectors without a tune. The only thing you can do is increase your boost a little bit up to the point the car starts to run too lean to be "good" for it, but even then you have to a have good idea of how your engine works to know when that point comes. If you fit slightly larger injectors or increase the fuel pressure somewhat, you may be able to get more fuel under WOT allowing you to get even more boost and more power under the right lucky circumstances without pinging, but it will run like crap almost all the other time and will not be worth it. Are you a backyard mechanic somewhere in Pakistan fiddling with all this stuff so you can be cool and drift like in the american movies?

You're lucky you didn't blow the needle of your tachometer with that 100 second turbo timer countdown.

Let me fix that for you, YOu had stroke? YOu never had stroke, you never had spark. Look at you, granny compressing, not double caming like you shud. Ask any engine, any REAL engine, IT DONT matter if you run by an RPM or a rev limit, running is running.

Just give the poor guy a figure. Don't go past 10 PSI, 12 if you're feeling lucky, but any more than that and you'd be lucky not to blow the welds on your intake.

Well yea it could be a coil problem as well, not igniting the fuel and thus running overly rich and black, but it could be an injector overfueling totally messing with the AFR and causing the same symptoms. So why not make it easy and start the process of elimination with the easier set of variables first. Borrow a known working set of coils and see how you go. Alternatively why don't you move the coil pack that causes the "white" spark plug tip to another cylinder, clean the plugs and see if the white spark plug moves location with the coil pack of stays in the same cylinder. If it moves its mostly likely a coil issue, if it stays its most likely an injector issue.

It absolutely can be your injectors either blocked up or playing up as has been pointed out. Your logic of ruling them out doesn't make sense. Mine looked exactly like that when I had injector troubles from running on e85. One or two lean and white the others black. What fuel are you using?

Possibly. I don't claim to be knowledgeable in the engine building department by any means, just some experiences I've had. You get what I'm saying by revving the engine and killing power to feel the harmonics of the engine? Its one of the first tests I perform when looking at a car. On the the hand a well tuned engine feels so much more alive, composed and sharp than a stock motor, it really makes you see just how junk and dimwitted the stock ECU is on the R32 to R34 range.

IMO, based purely on observations thats because its very hard to rebuild an engine thats as well balanced as a good stock motor out of the factory. I've been in a few stock engine GTRs and a few rebuilt motors and the 2 or 3 rebuilt ones Ive had contact with all feel like they have bad vibrations and balance purely from a mechanical point of view, nothing to do with the tune, and I say this because even when you rev the engine to say 4000rpm and kill the engine it grinds to a halt like a tractor engine. Thats purely the momentum of the parts coming to a stop. I knew a guy that had the stock motor, his car ran smooth, did a full rebuilt for some reason or another and afterwards the engine ran very coarse coarse. I think the vibrations just cause so much more friction and stresses on components that you end up spinning a bearing or breaking a rod or scraping the cylinder wall from piston slap etc. I'd rather have a 500hp well built and tuned stock internals motor than a 700hp fully rebuilt one.

Haha I had that same issue you. Go in reverse, move about 5kph, press the brakes, clunk, move forward tap the brakes clunk. For me it was the trunnion/king pin bearings. That really big metal enclosed joint that connects the upper control arm to the hub assembly. Hope that helps!

Lol somehow? Ofcourse it does. Thats like the basic principle of how a combustion engine works. The max amount of fuel you can inject into the engine per any given amount of time will limit how much power you can get out of it. Did you add Aftermarket ECU to that list along with the injectors? Cos you will need it.

Some more parts Rear seats, good condtion - 30 Ac Evaporator Core - 30 S1 Headrest - 15 Will be uploading S1 R33 GTST headlights later on when I can get a pic. $80 for both, one of them has a broken front plastic lense.

Every time i see the words "Money is no object" I think of road rash 2 on the mega drive. Am I crazy?

Run two vacuum lines, one from the turbo actuator and the other from the manifold into the cabin. Insert the turbo line into your right nostril and the other into your left nostril, or vice versa if your left handed. With practice you can learn to control your boost when YOU need it. YOU are the boost controller. Driving your car will be like wearing a second skin.

Yes thats the radius rod bush you have been told about, and looks like you have oil dripping around it as well. Check for leaks. Oil will soften and degrade rubber making any replacement bushes bad again soon.

Make sure all bushes are in good order especially radius rod bushes, i.e the ones ones that keep the caster in check. They are the huge massive ones sitting low at the front of the car and they have a big role in keeping the suspension components tight under braking. Either go poly bushes or this is a good time to fit adjustable caster rods if thats your thing. Make sure all ball joints especially the steering rack ones like the tie rod and tie rod end are in good order and have no play. Now, change both the front wheel bearings, preferable use genuine. THEN At the same time this is being done, get the brake discs machined and fit new pads. Hand in the air "I swear I will not kill anyone" pledge, problem solved. I have gone a lot of my life with theese types of problems, and its almost been bad bearings no one will tell you about. Mechanics will just always go to "machine discs", but then they vibrate again after a few months, machine discs, vibrate again, machine discs, vibrate again, brake squeal, new pads, bed in, few months, sequel again, machine discs, new pads, vibrate again, sequel again. In my case at least its always been bearings causing play, and the problem has always been fixed by new bearings as long as everything else is on order, even though I was always told bearings are fine. I never realized how easy is it for bearings to have play in them and cause problems, most people will tell its obvious if your bearings are bad, in other words if its not making a humming noise and you cant feel play in the wheel then its fine. Its not the case. Bearings can be bad without you knowing. Haha, so true. I noticed this exact same thing a long time ago. It seems to apply to women of all ages, elderly people or people not into cars. My guess is its because they go over kerbs and bumps at massive speeds without slowing down especially when they are alone. You would not believe how fast they take obstacles if you saw them alone. They also press the wheel against the kerb when turning and keep turning without realising how much pressure they are excreting due to power steering and that they are up against a kerb, They accelerate like crazy just to close a 100m gap when approaching a red light with cars stopped at it, even though they can clearly see the cars and red light, just to brake like crazy just seconds later, barely stop right against the car in front of them, then just sit there with the brake pedal still as firmly mashed down as when they were stopping, until its go time again. Repeat x100 per day. Has its toll.

lol Close. Ive got a pair of S1 headlights in really bad nick? The plastic is cracked on one of them. I think the other is good. I was going to cut the plastic out fully and have a backup pair for that no lense look, but I cant be bothered. If you have mad fabricator skills you can have them both for...$80?

I can gurantee you its not the throttle cable sticking or anything mechanical like that. That's the Typical ECU Trim/adjust computer stuff it does. Something is causing your RPMs to stay a bit higher than what is expected, then the ECU goes oh shit thats too high for this amount of idle throttle it and dips it. Happens to my R33 as well. Here are some possible things you can look into that haven't been mentioned yet that have made my skyline exhibit these symptoms. 1 .AAC Valve Screw - Maybe the screw on the AAC vavle is a bit to high. Turn it clockwise maybe 1/4 of a rotation, so about 90 degrees, and see if that has any impact. IF not try do another 90 degrees to a full 180 and see how that has affected it. I wouldn't go past a full 360 turn if its not fixing the issue. Remember your stock position. 2 .High fuel pressure and any fuel pump wiring changes - Check your fuel pressure. When I changed my fuel pump and did a fuel pump rewire my idle RPMs were higher than they were before this until the ECU auto adjusted. but I noticed when stopping at lights the RPM would hold 1300ish just like yours before the ECU autocorrected. It seemed the car wanted to lurch and stay in higher RPMs instead of mellowing out. It would drop to 800ish and you had to just breathe on the thorrtle and it would rise to 1300 again, then dip, etc. Had to adjust AAC valve. 3. Something like Air condition running, power steering pump asking for juice, light, amp, a electrical drain on the alternator etc causing the ECU to want to raise the revs. 4. Timing not set properly, too high - Having the timing too high can cause this issue as well. Is your CAS adjusted about in the middle? See a lot of R34s with the CAS fully advanced. Thats all I can think of right now

Yea I guess was thinking of the nuts for the most part (lol) but I do recall seeing "alloy" studs for sale somewhere, so maybe that jogged my memory, though I don't know if they were aluminum or some alloy of steel. They looked silvery so it wouldn't surprise me if they had aluminum. Maybe some knock of parts factory in china decided to start making them and they just hit the market. Boom suddenly its on peoples cars. People don't really research materials before they use them, they assume if its on the market its ok to use. I mean if a reputable Japanese tuning company uses aluminum nuts on their wheels on a top speed run they snap off like in the video I posted, the regular joe would not think even once about fitting whatever is "cool" Yea I remembered it from years ago. A lot of "drama" happens.

lol OK yes. I guess I should say in situations where there is combination constant heat cycles, vibration, shock loads, torsional, lateral, literal, longitudinal, opstitutional and wongolational stresses. i.e wheel studs. A control arm has a cakewalk of a job in comparison relative to its size.

Get good hub centric spacers. 10mm is max I would go. Get good strong STEEL studs. Do not use aluminum studs or nuts ever. Sure steel is twice as heavy but 3 times as strong. I facepalm every time i see aluminum in a load bearing application. I cant recommend Gktech gear enough. Just use this combination http://www.gktech.com/index.php/4-5x114-3-10mm-hub-centric-slip-on-spacers.html http://www.gktech.com/index.php/13-0mm-knurl-extended-wheel-studs.html You will most likely have to roll your guards too. Heres is how aluminium studs break. Action starts at 7:50