sonicz

The pipe sucking shut is not at all a worry of mine because I know how to work at solving it if it comes up. I'm not even entirely convinced the stock pipe will suck shut. I will stick a camera in there and record it while I drive and post it on here. If I go soft silicone hose I believe that can easily suck shut, but I can stick a few metal rings in there and/or clamps on the outside and glue them to the hose to keep it from collapsing. Seriously This is a problem i am confident I can easily solve. 1. What I am worried about is the oil drain hose being kinked. Is that a crucial problem? How fast is the flow through there? I know its the oil return and thus supply oil for the turbo is there but I mean if 80% of the hose is blocked by a kink how will it affect the car for a short while non boosting to a mechanic? 2.How will using the stock 2 inch inake pipe with a silicone 2 inch to 3 inch adapter affect turbo performance? I find it odd that you say its ok that a 2 inch metal pipe is sitting mere cm away from rotating blades designed to have a 3inch hose attached to them. This should work fine right? But it will look something like this to the turbo as far as the pipe that supplies the air is concerned. Is that ok blowing the air only partially accros the opening so close to the blades? Was looking to keep cost low. Figured ebay turbo would set me back 270 and that's it. A bit late for that but I may come have a look and buy it just to keep it as an option in case this doesn't work out. pmed.

My goal was just to get the car running again for as cheap as possible. yea I see it would have been cheaper to get a stock one now, even for $300. I could not find one for $150 lol I realy did try get a stock one . I went across all Sydney and both I saw were flogged both sellers wasted my time, massive shaft play in and out. I had someone try sell me one here on sau for $350 which was too much for me.

Why exactly though? You need to elaborate. What happens if I 1.Use the stock air inlet pipe, and use a 3inch to 2 inch reducer. Inmaniac said he did this for 2 years. 2. Buy one of the silicone ebay hoses, and it collapses sometimes? My bigger regret is paying more money that needed.

1. Yup done! Thankfully that worked out (but it wasn't easy finding it) 2. Did not modify anything as I did not know anything about having to modify anything. As I said I figured its exactly the same fit as the stock turbo. It wasn't, and it needed a longer hose. Thats why i was looking for a new oil drain hose.. I cut the new 1m hose it to size and I spent 4 HOURS trying to squirm the damn hose on. Its rock solid, like trying screw a m12 bolt into an m10 hole by hand. Here is the damned result. There is a huge kink in the hose. A lot more than the pic depicts as the kink is from the other side. No i cannot take the hose of again let alone the turbo. The hose is literally stuck in place now. What i need to know is how badly the kink will affect the reduced oil flow? I plan to to get it to a mechanic to get it up on a hoist to put to the hose on properly should be easy once under the car. Will it starve anything of oil if the flow is severely restricted? Only for slow driving to the nearest mechanic. 3. Mine fit properly, but I did have to take the turbo bolt of next the oil drain pipe, which i plan to grind down the head of the bolt down a size and refit it. 4. Did not have to do this? But it did need some bending. 5. What front pipe? you mean the turbo oil drain pipe? If so see answer 3 and 2 6. I could do this, but then wont it starve the turbo of air or flutter them having a 2 inchpipe so close to the intake blades blowing air only over small portion of them? Seriously thinking of getting one of these which has a 3 inch turbo inlet opening and I dont need to do any modifications!??

I think I have to clarify a few things as to how things are. Now, I'm not a black woman but In this case I have to say "Dont you judge me", when it comes to trying to spend more money that I absolutely need to. I cannot just buy whatever scotty makes because to me it most definitely does matter how much he asks for because I dont have an unlimited supply of money, In fact 'Im broke. I'm willing to accept donations however if there is someone who it does not matter to.. I have also decided not to spend more than I need to anymore because thats how I've been most of my life and its gotten me nowhere, to so I have to abide by that decision. I used to replace and fix every nook and cranny on my cars, I'm talking 12k+ on cars I bought for 7k drove a few years and then sold for 3k even thought they were mint condition due to depreciation. Back to the skyline in question, the car was always very well maintained throughout its life and it owes me a lot of money that i will never see again, nor will I see any money or gain an rewards in the money I am spending now fixing it. I am just doing it because I hate to see the car in an undrivable state. On top of this, none of this was meant to happen! The car drove beautifully before all this happened, and I was agreed to sell it to a friend of mine who was overseas and knew the car well and needed a car when he got back. I already got myself an economical run around ages ago. The car developed a small water leaks somewhere at the back of the engine just before I delivered to him on a test drive as luck would have it. instead of leaving ti to him to dealt with, i decided to be a good person so I took the car to the mechanic who charged $250 for the labour to change the hose. I was spewing at on the day. I picked up the car and on the way to deliver the car to my friends place it started smoking oil and the turbo was blown. I had never abused the car I was shocked. I suspected the mechanic maybe ran the car without the coolant hose connected to the turbo and cooked it etc or flogged it but I dont know. I left the car stranded at my friends place. He came back, the car was not ready, he got himself another car, and I'm fixing a car which I do not want and he does not want, spending money which I will never see again. All because I do not want to sell a car with "a broken engine" and get offered peanuts for it because the actually engine makes 180psi+ compression all 6 cylinders and is in perfect health otherwise mechanically. I really hope you guy understand this. Some people cannot put themselves in other peoples shoes and just think everybody can do what they can. I just want the car drivable and working ok now, I dont really care if the silicone intake hose collapses a little if it saves me $200. What would happen if it does, Im sure its not catastophic and I'm sure I can fit a few metal rings inside to help keep it open. Im not preparing a car for racing in le mans.

yea I'm seriously only finding everything out as a I go long. None of this was planned normally i research things but not at this time.. I'll look around on gumtree ebay see what I can find. Do you know what part exactly sucks closed? Maybe I can insert something to keep it open like a round metal ring? Do you know how much scotty sells them for? So something like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Silicone-Induction-Intake-Hose-Pipe-Skyline-R32-Turbo-RB20DET-Blue/281486828881?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20151029142714%26meid%3D9d5300b1bf41458bb71d0b944c8b1276%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D271912832930&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 RE. the wastegate, I'm still 100% confused whats going on... I already have adjustable boost controller on the car. It was working perfect with old turbo and could easily adjust boost between say 6psi to 14 psi etc depending on how much i turned the allen key on the boost controller setting. However as shown in the pics the old turbo had a nipple on the waste gate that something connected to, which i presume is how the boost was controlled. The new Turbo does not have that. So how do I get the new turbo to have adjustable boost? The wastegate is just connected back into the housing of the turbo. Yea i really panicked on the spot as I I figured it would not be enough room but I guess its possible. Will have to look around whats available but I dont see how it will work unless the reducer goes from soft 3 inch silicone plastic or rubber suddenly to a metal 2 inch pipe to insert into the stock skyline reducer pipe. EDIT. Guess I can use a pure silicone reducer with a pipe inside, but them there will be a naked pipe handing freely mid air mere cm from a spinning compressor blade.. I also realized if i get a reducer there would be no point in the turbo having a 3 inch inlet, might suffocate it, so better to get a proper 3 inch pipe for it right?

Thanks for the input so far guys. Unfortunately this never ending saga seems to have no end in sight but I have no choice but to keep going. I had a look at some youtube videos on how to port the wastegate and its surprisingly not that scary of a task. In fact its probably the most simple, just gently slashing away at a hole making it bigger and this part of the process actually 100% understand how it all works. However, As always A NEW CHALLENGER appears which to most people is plain and simple and I'm ready to get the sledge hammer out. I did get new a silicone new hose of ebay, and after doing a tour of Sydney I did find a 1m length oil resistant hose at a turbo specialist store for the turbo oil drain. The silicone size I needed turned out to be 51mm to 60mm 90 degree reducer if anyone is interested. The new turbo compressor outlet is 51mm so the small side of the silicone fits to this nicely, and the stock piping of the skyline is around 60mm so the fat part fits this nicely. I also got a cut away steel pipe from an exhaust shop about 4 inches long and just under 60mm diameter. Problem solved. right? WRONG WTF I totally did not realize the Turbo air inlet is so much bigger on the new turbo than the stock one. The new turbo is 3 inches and the stock one is what 2 inches? It goes from this To this In no way shape or form is this a "direct factory replacement!" The ebay listing literally said that! The hose that connects to the turbo air inlet is the rubber one with lots of hoses coming out of out. Its wasy to small to connect to the air inlet of the new turbo. How DAFUQ do i get around this? Seriously Aside from getting a full new hoses and piping rework of the entire RB25 engine incl manifolds and and 3 inch piping inter cooler kit I have no idea what to do. Is there any part that replaces this stock rubber hose on the left but has a 3 inch side? Frankly I'm surprised nobody mentioned running into this problem. If I had idea idea it was going to be this much modification i would have just got another used stock turbo even if it cost me 350. I'm already over that in parts I never wanted. Also how DAFUQ do you adjust boost on the new turbo? It has no nipple on the wastewater actuator like the stock turbo does. What do I do with the left over nipple? Is it just one boost waste gate settings and I turn the nut on the wastegate rod to extend the flap for less boost or closed for more? p.s lease let me have some sanity but not making me think about tune until its at least hooked up.

Ok to get first things first. I just called plazman luckily beore going there, and they dont have anything of the sort for a turbo oil drain hose or a 90 degree 1.5 to 2 inch silicone hose for the piping. I was told to go to him as he would have it but luckily i called ahead and nada, they said they are an inter cooler manufacture place. You would think i was looking for a rare part of a an alien mothership not a common place "tuner" care Next place I go to is pirtek. Otehrwise I am out of ideas and will just use a radiator hose, or can anybody recommend a substitute oil drain hose that will do the trick? A clear silicone hose from bunnings by the metre and cut to size? Moving on. Yes you are right, my turbo looks like first two pics. Now I let me get this straight, I'm guessing that I need to port the wastegate so that more boost pressure can be bypassed and I dont boost creep too much? Where do I get it done and wont the metal shaving f up the turbo? I have a boost controller, so if I set that to the lowest, what will my boost be? I think the stock AFM can handle up to 14psi without hitting its max value. With the lowest boost setting, are you guys telling me my boost will be greater than 12ish psi without the turbo ported?

Inmaniac, Yea that tool is gold. But hard to find in 23mm. I went to supercheap in Warick farm, all they had was heater hoses. I went to repco and autobarn in gregorys hill. I spoke to at least 2 people there. One of the guys tried to find me power steering hoses etc but nadda. All they had was heater hoses...Nothing else. Would I lie to you? Oh and they had huge blue show off silicone hoses for like inter cooler piping and that, but none in the size i needed. We got the car of the soft grass and onto some hard stuff. It can be jacked up now! I also have plenty of tools at my disposal. Ref to wastegate I have no idea what you are talking about tbh. You mean transfer the wastegate off the old turbo to the new one? Why? Your deduction skills are spot on. I went to see two stock turbos drove across all of sydney and they both ended up having loads of shaft play in and out. So I just thought F it im sick of this and Ive heard of people having good results with ebay stuff so I bought the best looking bolt on stock replacement I could find off ebay. But I dont know any of this wastegate porting please elaborate? I'm not ignoring any of this just trying to get away with something if it has a good chance of working out ok because the more I work on the car the more chance i breaks something, and I may be working alone now. For example I scratched the fudge out of the turbo mating surface on the 4 bolts sticking out of the exhaust manifold trying to get it on. Its not going to affect anything cos its superficial but still stuff like that I'm worried about. Depending on what yo say, to transfer wastegate over i will have to take turbo off again so I guess I can file down the pipe and at least fit the bolt back on...yay for having to take it out again and put it in again. I even used hi temp gasket maker on the surfaces...

Inmaniac yea it definitely is dodgy as. When you trying to cut corners to go faster you end up taking three times as long. Ok so you are saying I need to fit that compressor housing bolt back on or it will or may leak !? Boost leak? One bolt out of 7 or 8? Fark.. I wonder if I can get it in there without unbolting the turbo..? Do you happen to know what size the bolt is so i can get one with a smaller head maybe?? What if I just risk it and see how it goes. Any chance of damaging the turbo? I think I may just stick my head in the sand and side with GTSboy on this one cos its too painful to take it all out and I think my uncle has thrown in the towel so I may be alone now. I'm not a very mechanical aptitude person and I hate doing this kind of sensitive expensive work. Yea you definitely need a suitably sized ratchet to get to the engine side 23mm coolant bolt from the top. CRCH CRCH CRCH for days. If you attempted it with a spanner or wrench you would loose your sanity long before the bolt came out. The amount of turns required is not to be taken lightly not to mention the awkward angle you need to have the tool grip the bolt head at. Yes I mean the oil drain pipe on the bottom of the turbo leading into the bottom of the engine block. Yes that one has a gasket on it that came with the new turbo. Unfortunately the stock hose is not longer long enough And I need a new oil drain hose. That sucker is some kind of special hose painted silver and I am having problems finding one like it but longer. I assume it cant just be a heater hose cos it needs to be oil resistant. Can I just use a silicone hose from bunnings and cut it to size? I went to supercheap repco autobarn etc nadda. I am going pirtek on monday to see if I can find a suitable hose. As in a spent an entire saturday looking for one and found nothing. Also I was suggested to go to plazmaman to get a 1.5inch to 2 inch 90 degree silicone hose to attach new turbo to stock piping So I hope he has what i need. What a terrible job. Wish I took it to a shop now. If anybody that has done this before in Sydney feels like swinging by to "finalize" the job I'll give you $50 and free beers. Its not much but at least its not nothing.

Yea all it would have taken was to grab a file and file down the metal pipe where it intrudes on the bolt. We're talking lack of clearance the size of a few grains of salt. But too late now not sure if i can take it all of. Whats the worst case scenario of it moves? Just loose some boost or the whole turbine scarping on the housing and destroying the turbo? So the copper washers, are needed on both sides of the banjo fitting? As in it goes turbo housing>copper washer>banjo fitting>copper washer>23mm bolt head?

Ok guys did the job spent about 2 half days on it and fuming now cos it was half arsed and probably was for nothing as have to do it again... My uncle was helping and was in a rush so not really thinking. Haven't started the car cos I'm not comfortable about a few things. 1. Is it OK if one of the bolts is missing on the compressor housing of the turbo? We had to take one bolt of to fit the oil line pipe onto the turbo as it would not fit anymore with new turbo. The one in red we took off. Will that hold up ok? 2. Did not fit copper washers on oil and cooler bolts. The only one that has a gasket is the bottom metal pipe. They will leak right? Thought so. Anyway it turns out you can remove the turbo from the top with a lot of swearing patience and tilting and the right tools. That water bolt thats opposite of the strut side as you guys said, you can undo it if you just use a ratchet without an extension and a 23mm socket. Its on an awkward angle but doable if you keep it in place with one hand and twist away or get someone to hold the socket on the bolt and someone else to turn Getting it back on is a lot harder than removincos they dont line up right. You sort of need two people. Th hardest part is the coolant hose at the bottom. You need to take the wheel of and undo it from underneath unless you are lucky and the phillips bolt on the clamp is facing up, which it wasn't in my case. So had to do it from the side.

The car is on uneven grass/stones on a downhill. moving it will be a problem in itself id really want to avoid. And yes i dont exactly want to get under it in this scenario. Maybe i can jack up the side of the car only and disconnect from the cat and just pull out the whole thing..hmm seems like an idea i can try inmaniac. When you guys say the big 24mm bolt is that the coolant line thats on the turbo? Cos i undid that bolt easy already from the top.

WTB R33 Gtst series 1 Automatic guage cluster any km SMS 0421605491 Any area syd or NSW.

Good to hear. What would be the hardest part? How would you get to the dump pipe bolts? adjustable spanner? p.s Are you sure its doable by a regular skilled human with common tools or just taking an educated guess?

Can you remove a stock rb25 turbo without jacking up the car? Just wondering if this job is possible from the top with the right tools.

WTB stock rb25det turbo sms 0421605491

U need to make sure the inhectors are working properly. Have had a similar issue with bad injectors

Really cheap 5 Stud complete front Hub assembly incl bearings (off R33 GTST). ($15) + some other bits. $15 each for the front hub assembly Bearings were good when they came of car 1 year ago. Pickup Campeltown NSW. Pm with your number for pickup info Also have for sale hicas 4ws rack $30 Rear seat $10 Ac condenser $20 Headrest $10

WMDC35, They are grey on mime not pink. Nizmo man, no chance they would admit it was their product that caused it. TY 1, they are not dirty. They were spotless when i took them out. Even opened them up..Spotless. As I said they failed electrically.

Kiwirs4t. Its the injectors fault because they are obviously over sensitive. I find it difficult to beleive a newer car will have such problems with an off the shelf additive. Uwish. Because i had had ethanol in there on the odd occasion, I wanted to protect it from any corossion or water..I was being cautious but as you can see it did harm instead of good. U guys seem to be missing the point if its designed to help with e85 it should help with any ammount of ethanol. Lucas oil have an additive in America thats similar to the nulon stuff but with with e10 e15 e85 etc. It doesnt matter... Not to mention it says it does a lot of other things as well.

Thanks unknown. Im gonna try get a s2 set.

Guys you are making this seem more simple than it is...First of all ive stopped using ethanol. As for the obvious answer being to stop using the treatment it wasnt so obvious. The first injectors i thought died due to the ethanol use or old age. But it was likely due to the additive. The second set died due to using the same fuel in the tank with the treatment in WHICH I HAD NO IDEA CAUSED PROBLEMS -The 3rd set just died a few hours after adding the treatment. IT was only yesterday i suspected the additive. after the 3rd set died. I am obviously never going yo use it again but i think its important to note NOWHERE DOES IT SAY THE NULON e85 treatment not suitable for unleaded fuel! It also says it cleans and protects injectors valves cylinder walls etc. And im still 3 injectors down.and need a 4th set. I dont want to put in another stock set!

Pretty sure you didn't read the OP. Not running ethanol anymore. It only had very little anyway. Its a stock car with minor upgrades like intercooler coil packs, higher boost etc. I need to know if any modern injectors that are also 370cc will fit the car, or if S2 injectors will work in an early S1. Because stock S1 injectors have been complete trash to me not paying for another set.

I have a Early build 1993 R33 Skylline GTS-T. It is NOW my understanding that there's something different about these early S1 stock injectors that makes them extremely sensitive to modern fuels or additives especially if ethanol is involved in any way. Something about the potting compound used. Makes them ELECTRICALLY fail I am on my 3RD set and sick of it! They are all perfectly spotless clean but get out of range resistance leading to infinite! So here's the story A few times Ive had e10 in my tank either cos my dad filled up and ive told him not to, or I've had to and mixed it with 98. The car ran great on it. It was a rare occurrence. Now it seems its not the e10 that killed them but rather an addtitive. As a preventative measure, after I STOPPED using ethanol, I added Nulons "e85 performance fuel treatment". A few days later the car developed a miss that got worse and worse until it barely ran and I diagnosed and replaced all 6 injectors with a used pair of stock r33 inejctors. Car ran great, for a few more weeks until AGIAN it started acting up. SAME thing. I got a tested and working set of stock injectors. Drained the tank and refilled with 98. Car ran great for 10 months. Never connecting the e85 fuel treatment to the problem, i added what I had left of it to a quarter tank of petrol. 2 hours later (which was yesterday). THE SAME problem. The culprit seems to be the "Nulon E85 performance fuel treatment." https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Fuel_Treatments/E85_Performance_Fuel_Treatment I drained the tank refilled and the car still barely runs. I need to replace my injectors AGAIN. I dont want to pay for a custom ECU and tune, so are there any updated modern injectors that are not as sensitive that are plug and play in a stock R33? Can I use S2 injectors in an S1?