Lithium

Not sure. It made 250kw @ hubs on 16psi a Dynapack set up how Trent @ Chequered sets his up - we bumped the boost up to around 19/20psi and just checked over the tune to make sure it seemed safe and sensible, so not sure exactly what power it is making there. The turbo should still have a reasonable amount of flow left in it, we didn't go past 20psi because the car only has a 2.5bar map sensor.

Update on the 16G SR20DET setup, frustrating times for the owner trying to find traction - to be fair he doesn't really drag race (car as built with track in mind)... 2nd gear was quite crunchy too, so made life a bit difficult for him too. Ended up running wastegate (around 13psi) in first to try and make it easier to control wheelspin, and 19psi the rest of the way down and best time was 13.0, and best trap speed was 118.4mph which is pretty much bang on what we had been discussing as a target. Here is a time slip with the highest trap speed, it's the only one I actually got my hands on to take a pic of :-)

Nice - look forward to hearing how it comes out What was the old setup? Any dyno sheets for it or anything? Be interesting to see how it compares, as it looks like the car was no slouch already!

Awesome, sounds like a potent combo. First thoughts when you mention aiming for 30-35psi are they the turbo is a mismatch for the setup, it WILL choke your engine when you try and hold that boost - however if you are willing to push the setup that hard, and you have the technology to control boost well then I reckon embrace the match you have and bring it up to 35psi and bleed it back to the maybe mid 20s or so that the thing will probably end up being happier with in the high rpm. The KT3 housing will help flow a bit but I think the 35R hotside will be a choker on that kind of setup with that kind of airflow, and even the compressor will struggle and max out. Now for the bright side, if your aim is 450-500kw...if everything is working right it will probably do that piece of piss (won't need to go over 30psi to do it), and if you end up going to a 30+psi dropping off type boost curve.... It will probably not look amazing in terms of building power up, but area under the curve would be crazy. Hope you have a strong transmission! :-D Looking forward to seeing the results :-) Out of interest, what kind of spec are you coming from?

That is an excellent result! Nice work, got to be happy with that - over 200kw @ wheels at 4000rpm and nearly 340kw on BP98... imagine it on E85! The old GT3076Rs don't get that much love these days, but they do the job.

Was that on JEM's dyno? Man, I'd love to see what Mat's thing would run - even just mph, I would guess it'd be near 130mph

I'd say often the reason people are taking a car in that state to someone to get tuned is because they aren't confident about how on top of the whole building/tuning a car process they are - otherwise they'd be doing it themselves

Cheers for discussing this, interesting reading. I've been a bit dubious of the idea of 25Gs on L2 turbines but hadn't considered that they could actually run into reliability issues beyond the fact that things always will wear a bit worse when worked harder. The one person I know who had a Kando failure was running a Kando 60-1 on a small turbine combo, too - which I always thought was a bit of an ugly way of going about it anyway ..... so strictly speaking picking suitable compressor to turbine matches can avoid this issue?

Yeah, the ECU doesn't know any more than the CAS is telling it in terms of where the crank position is. The ECU will do it's normal calculation on advance and record that in the log, the best chance of spotting a triggering issue is if the ECU is smart enough to realise it has not recorded a trigger in the period of time it should have and then logged it as a warning.... or if a triggering is bad enough the deviation in the logged rpm "curve" has the potential to get quite conspicuous.

Typically the 6266 has just been the same compressor as the 6262 but with a bigger turbine - I can't see why they would change that, but I don't know for sure.

I never got any update on it, and haven't been able to treat it as conclusive one way or another but very aware it's the only case I know of as well so treating it cautiously but not looking like enough to take any conclusion from.... Unfortunately a guy I know now is not above dishonesty to it sell his product was involved and made it seem like a common failure, problem is that could or probably was complete bollux. Doesn't seem like much first hand experience from owners sharing their failures, the one I mentioned certainly is the only I have heard of.

Lol Wow - an actual faulty CAS, good to know this can happen - have had discussions about the possibility of this kind of thing when working through a similar issue and was told by people that this would never happen due to a CAS specific problem, at least without huge rpm being involved. I had picked up the tuning of a while ago, it would take SFA timing without pinging (exactly the same symptoms as this one it seems) its head off - in this particular instance it was actually a seriously buggered cam belt which had enough slop at mid rpm to cause the CAS to throw out erratic triggering signals. Just replacing the cambelt etc (left the original CAS) allowed a further 5+deg of timing to be put into it and the owner was beside himself at the final result. I "only" use a G4 KnockBlock - but even with that I can tell dodgy combustion in cars which the owners are adamant the existing tune is fine, even when it has apparently been tuned with det cans of some sort - I sometimes wonder how much it is the user and how much it is the hardware where people aren't noticing knock. I won't personally won't tolerate the little static noise you can get before you even hear rattling. Thanks for sharing the positive outcome, definitely duly noted

That car rules, so much. It makes me very very happy - reminds me of old HPI videos of HKS street meets Thats low 8s trap speeds, on radials - in a road legal car. Happy thoughts, indeed.

Bugger, sounds like a frustrating weekend 122mph with issues is certainly moving though! What changes has it had since it ran 120mph? Glad it at least survived the trip. As an aside, there is a turbo builder in NZ (who isn't necessarily the most stand up in terms of honesty at times - makes it hard to know what to believe and what not to) who has been trying extinguish any interest in the Kando turbos presumably before they get too popular, saying they tend to fail before you get any good use out of them. I haven't seen any evidence of this anywhere yet, but figured on this large a community it should be a mature enough trend here to get a reputation one way or another. Has anyone actually had one fail, or even get a bit sad yet? Drags this weekend coming, can't wait to see what the 16G setup does - I should add that the turbo is not "all in", boost is limited to what can be safely run with a 2.5 bar MAP sensor

How did it go?

The only turbo of the range relevant to most people here that I am aware of is the 62mm CEA wheels - they are funnily enough the same OD, but seem like they may be a bit "deeper" (ie, distance from inducer diameter to exducer diameter along the shaft - not from centre). There seems to be a negligible amount more lag, and about 5% more flow at higher boost.

I think some of the earlier HG turbos didn't perform that flash from a lot of what I saw, the newer stuff while I am not convinced are as all conquering as there is some implication by enthusiasts - they ARE very good, if not the best bang for buck in terms of simplicity and balance of response and power. The customer support appears to be very good too, so if I lived in Australia and was doing a fresh internally gated bolt on setup I'd seriously consider going one. If someone said they don't want one however, I wouldn't try and ram them down someone's throat - much the same as where people have asked about which Hypergear turbo to go for I haven't come in and told them to get which of my preferences I would go for.

Fwiw, for the sake of people reading through - those are limitations for a plug-in ECU... if you had an "Extreme" or "V88" then you would have more inputs, the option of a higher pressure map sensor (I actually think the plugins come with more than 2.5bar now too, though could be wrong), and you can map fuel temperature compensation - though you only have limited overlay tables so it depends on how much your tuner has utilised, and it can also drive each coil pack and injector separately.

Come on guys, he has politely as possible said Hypergears have been ruled out - this feels a bit like it's heading in the direction of bullying. I'd like to think a user shouldn't have to defend their decisions, this discussion should probably be about what he's asked in the first place? OP - Stao's comment above is very valid, I would not be targetting that power to all four wheels with the stock side mount - you made a strange statement saying you wanted stock manifold, but would be upgrading. What exactly does that mean? It's either one or the other. Also agreed with the comment that a 20G won't do it at all 4, you're definitely looking at 25G territory requirements... have a look at the first post in the Kando Dynamics thread, SimonR32 has a T67-25G which has been running for YEARS on that car, making 370+kw.

No idea, sorry... Have never bought it through them. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Yep sorry, I meant to mention RaceProof/Alcotane - the Alcotane brand was part of RaceProof...

Wow, terrible luck for you and great luck for him Agreed with overspeccing fuel system for sure, just mentioned it because you suggested ID1300s would be better. And yes, I definitely meant fuel flow difference - rushing a little too much with my message, my bad. Yeah, I have no doubt Jason will be fine doing it - I've just been curious of how many are lurking around, you don't really hear much about flex fuel setups in NZ but I am aware of a few people selling the sensors so there must be some. The outright cheapest you could do is probably from South Pacific Ethanol in Auckland, who sell denatured ethanol and have the option of treating it with corrosion inhibitor - I know people who have run that recently with no issue, but it's a relative unknown compared to the likes of Gull, Sucrogen etc. The biggest issue with it that I know of is you can only get it in 200l containers that I am aware of, so storage is a potential problem. If the place in Petone you are talking about is Alcotane, they no longer exist - there are a lot of contact listings for them which are well out of date as they actually last operated in Plimmerton before they 'disappeared'... it sucks a bit because being able to buy 20litre containers locally was very very very handy, compared to the current situations. The last place we acquired E85 was when I went up to Auckland last weekend, I stopped past Gull Pukekohe and filled a few containers with Gull ForcePro You can order E85 from Taupiri Auto Store too, but I believe they also only sell in 200l containers.

Nice setup, look forward to hearing results Think I've seen that car around, or at least heard about it. Those -9s aren't that big a turbo for your setup, ID1000s aren't particularly big for an E85 setup but in saying that - I'd not be surprised if the fuel system maxes out when the -9s are getting near their limit too. If the ID1000s do reach their limit on E85, the cool thing about flex fuel and the G4 is you can set multiple boost maps and have them switch based on your own preset thresholds - and realistically there isn't huge power gain between say E70 and E85, but a reasonable power difference. If you happen to be injector flow limited on E85, but the turbos have more - you may actually be able to make more power with more boost on E60-E70 and have the Link allow the higher boost if the injectors will allow the flow to support it Do you know if Informotive have done any flex fuel tunes yet? I've heard there are cars lurking around NZ with flexfuel tunes but only know of two definites, and one is a Porirua based Silvia which I tuned

Awesome, good luck. I'll be lying if I said I wouldn't be disappointed if it went under 115mph, but it's really hard to say beyond there - it's got a really difficult to "read" seat of pants feel, its surprisingly quick though. I'd kindof like to see around 120mph, but realistically anywhere between 115-120 would be well respectable for such a basic setup I reckon.

You can't - S-AFC just modifies the load signal from the AFM. In other news, local drags next weekend finally - looking forward to seeing how my mates S14 Silvia goes with the antisurge 16G setup, getting some ETs and trap speeds should clear up any dyno difference doubts. It will be running 19psi on E85.