Bliksem

email Greenline for a price. www.greenline.jp

Well I guess they've targetted Porsche on the track, why not target them in the SUV category as well... It would be aimed at the customers looking for something a little more than what the Murano can offer I imagine.

BESTCAR's ベストカー front page has this abortion on it. An R35 GTR "SUV style" potentially for the US market... I honestly hope it is nothing more than hot air, though I do fear Nissan see a potential market in the SUV-ridden country of America where bigger is best and SUV's are the vehcle of choice on the way to burger king. http://car.biglobe.ne.jp/bestcar/index.html Someone please tell me this isn't happening

To fit a crank collar you will need to remove the entire crank, have it machined and then have the collar press fitted on. It is possible to fit an N1 pump without a crank collar, all RB pumps are interchangable. However I would personally just go with another RB20 pump for only 4 track days per year. If you want to increase the pressure fit another washer under the relief spring. This will net you another 5-10psi. It may also be worth investigating if RB25 pumps flow more if you're after an upgrade.

There was an MR2 with 19's on the rear and 18's on the front. I think it was in one of the Video Option dvd's... Looked pretty good. I doubt it's a legal requirement to have all wheels the same including the spare. Think of all the cars with space savers.... including Skylines... In saying that. check first.

Go purple like you said, but do it like this Endless-R High temp wrinkle coat which I think looks much better than the candy's and pearls you see so often.

I usually take them for a drive... Some people just can't be convinced though... Ie: the bogan's who think Nissan stole all their technology from the VL haha

The same thing happens here... I remember a time when people used to import a skyline and sell off their so called ugly Japanese wheels for next to nothing so they could afford to make a quick trip to tempe and fit the biggest, cheapest, and probably shiniest wheels they could afford... Things have changed a bit now though... At the end of the day I think things will be much the same... the enthusiasts will remain... we'll have the tinsel crowd fitting plasma's bling and generally whatever other sh!t they saw on pimp my ride. And in both of those crowds we'll have a team of American's with their American take of either enthusiast, or tinsel... Just like we already do with RX7's, 300ZX's and 350Z's

Looking at the peice of kit in the background they'll have something good in mind... It could be worse... when I opened this thread I thought it was going to be yanks fitting airbags, some 24" chromies and a 42" plasma screen or something....

GTST you said everything I was thinking... I just didnt say it haha. Also FWIW there was a thread about what RB stood for... Wikipedia Japan claims "response balance" but tbh I highly doubt it stands for anything at all either...

Speak to pro-coat, I had mine done through them, excellent service, excellent workmanship, at a reasonable price. If you mention you're a member of the forum you will receive a discount. Contact details are in the GB section.

Just wondering if anyone has run a Garrett GT3082R with 1.06 A/R non an RB30DET with an ext wastegate? As far as I can tell these should be somewhere in between a 3076 and a GT35R meaning a good trade off between faster spool-up and less boost dropping off in the high end. http://www.gcg.com.au/Catalogue_Menus/Garr...ttbb_gt3040.htm

You'd honestly have to consider weather it would be cheaper to sell the RB25DET as a complete motor and run an RB30 by the time you go to the expense of fitting forged internals etc. a GT35R will get you to 300kw with room to expand. If you still want 300rwkw but with more low end a 3076, or GT3082r (aka 3040) would be a good trade off.

It will fit but if you're removing the crank fit a crank collar for peace of mind. Personally I wouldnt bother with the N1 water pump especially if its a street driven car.

I would say its not 100% necessary to use an engine brace. I've done it by removing the sway bar loosening the engine mounts and jacking the motor up 50mm or so... This was done on a hoist, and I wouldnt even attempt it without one.

my bad

Those screen shots are from part's master. You copy the part number into there and do a search and it will show you if that part is used on any other vehicle... Perhaps there are differences in the pump housing. Note the attached pic, top RB26 pump, bottom N1: Unfortunately I ant find a pic comparing RB26 vs RB25, but aleast this shows there are other differences apart from gear width.

Thought I'd Share

This is not the case in my copy of 'Fast' RB25DET Part Numbers: RB26DETT Part Numbers: The Workshop Manual also states RB26DETT Oil pressure is slightly different: Why the pressure for the RB26DETT is higher at idle but lower than the RB25DET at RPM I'm not sure, extra turbo, different relief valve spring?

Change to a better oil pump than the RB30E unit as it was never designed to flow oil to a DOHC head and turbo. They will potentially give you oil pressure problems at idle... How do I know? I followed the advise of my engine builder and unfortunately kept the RB30E pump following his logic of "if it aint broke dont fix it..." bad move. Im now in the process of installing a brand new RB26DETT oil pump. $266 from Greenline.

Individual throttle Body, the RB26DETT's have ITB's for example

Thats not carby. It still EFI Just ITB

That diagnostic check will only let you know if the sensor is working or not. There would be a way to do it, a simple LCD display and a circuit should do the trick. Start with the Jaycar website...

It's even more important to warm the car a little if you're running forged pistons. I usually finish breakfast, start car, brush teeth then drive away below 3k with gentle acceleration. I read somewhere that 90% of engine wear occurs in the first 11 mins, how true this is im not sure. But judging by how much longer oil temp takes to increase compared to water temp its certainly increased my level of engine sympathy from now on...

Conservative. Ideally around 14.5psi due to the ceramic exhaust wheel. I have heard of a few people running 18psi though...