Bliksem

Hi 4door sleeper, Could you tell me if the Greddy Washer bottle uses both front and rear washer motors? and does it bolt in as per the standard unit?

Personally I doubt they would be selling off their GTR's to recover investment costs... At best they will make $80k which seems hardly worthwhile... to me it would seem more logical to continue development of new parts to introduce onto the market to recover cost.... isnt that what they do for a job??

Think you meant Oil filter! Anyway I put mine in the side of the block, the same place where the factory RB30 pressure sensor goes - they're all blocked off on 25's etc with a plug. Easy when the motors out

Welcome Andy, Hope this helps: EJ1_installManual.pdf

R33 in my opinion is the better vehicle RB25DET in an R32 too would be the most ideal though

I poured oil down the pump when I installed mine, so I would say go for it!

Nissan recommends 7.5W30 The thinner oil allows better flow to the turbo and head. Save the 10W60 for the old Holdens etc

Also worth mentioning that the RB20E 33 and 34 models are not eligible.

Mine sits slightly below the second bar, thats with a brand new RB26DETT Pump

First thought that came to mind was Tomei, however REIMAX may be worth looking at (sub division of Nissan similar to Nismo)

Hi Felixy, been following your build over on GTR Canada, nice work and very pedantic about getting everything 100% or better I must say

CP Forged Pistons 9.0 C/R Cometic MLS Head gasket

The smell was probably burning clutch... Turbo not boosting could be a number of things, blown intercooler hose or wastegate actuator stuck open? And as for streetracing...

Sorry its 3.3L not 3.7

Might be worth looking at the HKS Camp II or Epson EJ-1 then

Petty sure the stock crank can handle that power as long as the revs are kept conservative. Spool imports are developing a 3.7L billet crank for RB30 you may be interested in

Bingo, looks like the A/C thermofan has been removed

MP3CAR.com Dowload the Nissan consult software and purchase a consult cable, connect both to laptop and you have live feeds... I have a mate who did exactly that with a flush screen touch panel in his R33

Traction control and CAS on the neo could be a bit of a problem...

Looks nice, JUN rear is one of my favourites I'd hang onto the rear wing personally as I hate the look of cars that are too busy... Anyway, good job

Not strictly correct as S1.5 came with the higher spoiler standard airbag and the S2 motor with ignitor module module in the ecu and other minor differences such as reversed coilpack mounting pattern. I am 99% sure that the S1.5 was phased out late 1995/early 1996. If you have a cloth interior, S15/N15/ S2 R33 steering wheel, S2 Dash, S2 "rough" dash fascia, painted rear boot fascia, and S2 front headlights and front bar then you can be pretty sure its a S2... failing that read the S1/S2 FAQ as I cant be bothered pointing out anything else ... FAST is still the 100% sure option though

Enter the VIN number into fast... straight forward as that really.

Seconded... either that or a FAQ with links to the relevant threads as per the FI section

You will need an oil pump from one of the DOHC motors or a VL Turbo pump at the least. My engine which was built by a supposedly reputable workshop who shall remain nameless supplied me with an RB30E oil pump after repeatedly assuring me it will be ok. It will not work as it flows much less oil. I found out the hard way... Refer to pictures: RB30E Pump: RB26DETT Pump: Keep in mind that if using another pump such as a Tomei or JUN or plan on track work you should carry out the relevant oil control modifications.

The first one is less work, but if you ever plan on running a forward facing plenum you wont be able to keep it. Tube and fin intercoolers are more efficient, and usually dearer. APEXi used to make a Hybrid Intercooler which was both Bar and Tube...