Bliksem

+ 1 for Tig weld

Im in the same boat as you mate! So I feel your pain! I have to pull my sump off to either replace the oil pump or fit an o-ring to the pick up gasket (possible vacuum leak??). One of the two as far as I can tell is giving me low oil pressure at idle. I beleive some of the baffles will clash with the crank on the RB25 sump, so It will need to come off and have them ground off. If i remember correctly the exact details are in the PDF

Google it with keywords such as torrent Another tip is to copy the part number into "Parts Master" found in the same folder as Fast in the start menu. It will list every model which uses the same part as your car.

The more I look at the second pic the more I think of one of those horrible tempe tyre's ad's splashed all over hot 4's and associated magazines and dvd's

I really would have thought that with the size of the brakes on the R35 Nissan wouldnt have had any other choice than to fit 20s to it... As for those pics

I agree with you there, thats how it looks with the std one though! I also tried the R31 cable whih eveyone suggests, but its over twice the length of the std one and there is too much slack once fitted to the tb. The only perfect solution i'm aware of is to have one custom made which is exatly what I intend to do.

Heres mine just after an RB30DET conversion

Heres mine (genuine greddy, not the copy) should also answer SK's question regarding reusing the GTR/Hybrid intercooler style hole below the Washer Bottle. I re-used my RB25 injector rail also which I painted with oil/heat resistant wrinkle coat.

Fixed this problem now guys! thanks for all the help. It turns out the oil pickup must have been leaking where it bolts to the pump so it was sucking a small amount of air I remember when installing the sump the pickup didnt have an o-ring or gasket so I stupidly tightened it up anyway. I added another bottle of oil making the total 10L this raising the level above the pump and I get healthy oil pressure. Looks like i'll have to remove the sump order a new o-ring and gasket and fit it. Main thing is i have pressure now!

Yep tried that mate with two different gauges. Im now wondering if its possible that some gasket glue has somehow made it up into the pressure relief valve and stuck it open

Any places to check for loosing oil pressure then (I dont have any noticable external leaks?) I made 20psi on cranking a few weeks ago... I cant work this out....

Does the o-ring that goes on the cas affect oil pressure? I noticed mine isnt fitted, but it was on my old motor? Also I re-located the oil pressure gauge sender to the factory RB30 location but could only fit the mechanical gauge on there. I recorded 10psi cold pressure but there was oil streaming out of the hose fitting so I may have lost a few psi there :-(

Checked today (Ricol Automotive btw so they "should" know their stuff) He used a brand new pump. I think there could be something with the oil cooler, I cleaned it in de-greaser and im starting to think that one of the valves could be shot/stuck but im not sure how the thing actually works. Another thing to note is that there is no ticking etc coming from the motor and oil is circulating around the head. Also regarding the oil weight, what should I be using to run the motor in? on around page 48?? sk recommends using castrol GTX which is what Im using...

im using an aftermarket gauge on the oil cooler. my engine builder re-used the rb30 oil pump as he said it would be sufficient, wasnt worn out etc. Does anyone know for certain if the rb25 oil cooler is compatable to bolt up to the rb30 block? I swapped over the slip on o-ring fitting etc but I noticed the cooler has a pressure releif valve, as does the block. Not sure if two valves could affect things though.

Need some serious help guys, My Oil pressure issues have returned. Im only reading around 5psi on idle with cold oil (external electronic oil pressure gauge) running castrol 20W50 GTX to run in the motor. Anything above idle the pressure comes up eg, it will hit around 70psi at 4k rpm. Oil pressure sender is mounted on the factory RB25DET oil cooler. REALLY REALLY want to sort this out as this is a brand new motor that hasnt even been run in yet!!!

Yep, exactly the same bellhousing pattern ps. not trying to rain on your parade but all of this information really was in the RB30DET thread and the cubes RB30DET pdf file. I did 90% of my conversion just based on a couple of reads over the pdf file so I suggest you get that!

You dont need to mod the a/c bracket only the power steering braket. Also the stock ecu will make it run.... but to make the most of it, an aftermarket one will be the best option.

Another vote for redline. But I used closer to 3.8L in the Gearbox and 1.7 in the diff from memory. With it being so thick it naturally takes a long time to work its way past the gears and settle in the bottom of the gearbox. Oh and a tip is to crack the filler plug before you drain anything. If you happen to drain it all out but can't undo the filler you'll be stuck with and empty diff and g/b and no way to fill it back up.

Few updated ones :-)

Not personally but I know Warlord mentioned he has.

If you dont boost it that should eliminate most, if not all possibility of it leaning out so should be fine I would "think"

Keep em coming guys! saved every one of these so far on my PC for future reference

If its only for looks just take the stock one off and have it powder coated or spray paint it yourself. I'm personally not into bling so I did mine with high temp & oil resistant wrinkle coat and baked it in my G/F's oven (hahaha) for an hour: Installed (pic taken around 4 weeks ago)

Any specs on the drivetrain for this thing? pretty hard to argue with the sound of that! Just awesome!