Bliksem

And jack the car up, your back will be killing you within an hour bent over the thing

Everything will reach, one thing you'll notice with the forward facing plenum's is that there will be no mounting points to support the loom. As for Throttle cable you can buy a R31 cable and shorten it to suit, or an S13 one (I should hav an S13 one soon to trial) It should be very straight forward. Nothing really needs to be modified except for the power stering mount.

The rubber seal where the valve attaches to the rim on my LM-GT2's is perished, does anyone know who stocks Rays engineering spares, or weather this part is commercially available? Theres a pic, its not the valve cap... the part on the opposite end

Ahh unfortunately I need a T03 flange not T25

Just get any tig welder to make one for you... or visit supercheap/autobahn/repco and buy a universal one

Does anyone know where I can buy them online??

As a rule of thumb, the shorter the intake runner, the less response at low rpm, but more power at higher rpm... longer intake runner is vice versa. If you find one that re-uses the factory intake runners, 'a-la plazmaman style' then you should be fine... and possibly improve response due to shorter i/c piping *thumbsup*

Fake rims FTL... Second hand for sure... if ou want to freshen them up just get them sandblasted and powdercoated...

Didn't you say in an earlier post that the R31 cable works and fits? Anyway... I've temporarily shortened my R31 cable by cutting the eyelet off at the end, pulling the black outer sheath off, cutting that and rejoining using some fuel line and areldite. I then sourced a new eyelet from a motorbike shop and re-fitted that at the suitable length. Long term plan is to get a custom one made up, or possibly try the S13/180x cable... Thats if anyone ever decides to reply to their pm's on NS.com.... Washer bottle... Not sure, but also need one for mine... I'll prob go a GReddy one, or one of the fancy ones available from yahoo japan

I agree, I also think after seeing the rear end shot that the rear end looks very FTO... as in sliced off from the rest of the car

bahaha I posted that thing up ages ago, Just turbo the std 6... custom manifold using RHS FTW

FWIW I was considering using the feed blocked of at the thermostat for the throttle body water line... just not sure about a return yet...

Haha holy crap dont know how the drive shafts will hold up... possibly only a strip/track car?

Looks like after Xmas now :-( my local exhaust shop wont be open until 7th Jan, also waiting on a throttle cable too :-) Will be spending a while driving her around the hilly area's around here to run it in, won't be able to keep the smile off my face though, the car hasnt moved from my shed in almost 3months

Went and got a Speco gauge before, getting over 20psi on cranking which is a huge relief =D looks like a new sender is on the cards!

ok, I've pulled all the plugs out, fuel pump fuse, and sprayed the sender with a heap of crc to try and dislodge and possible crap. I then filled the sump with an extra 5L of oil to help get the oil level higher than the pump and ensure the pump primes properly. Ive cranked it over and pretty confident oil is reaching the head as the cam bearings seem to be well lubricated. And so does the cam area in general. Looks like the sender could be stuffed, but I better get that mechanical gauge just to be sure...

So I started the car for the first time just before... Unfortunately I cant get an oil pressure reading on the dash... I pulled the oil filter off and it's full of oil. The only thing I can think it could be is that the RB25DET water/oil cooler which houses the sender is not compatable with the RB30 Block... Is this right? Edit, I took the sender out and a heap of oil drained out from the hole. I guess this means the sender is getting plenty of oil supply. How else can I check to make sure the motor is getting Oil pressure? I've pulled off the oil fill cap and had a bit of a look down there, a few drops flew off the cam but nothing excessive. What should that look like?

I wouldnt buy a brand new Kawazaki, you'll be upgrading 12 months and by then you'll prob already be bored with it anyway. Have a look at the Yamaha FZR250 (fastest legal 4 cyl) or better still if you live in Vic, an Aprillia RS250 (Fatest legal 2 stroke 250). Then again im almost reay to upgrade to a 600 so you can buy my Cagiva Mito (Ducatti 996 Styling )

You need to remove the entire plastic panel right from the top join all the way down to the dash...

I was thinking that because the pressure has to build up all the way back through the ic before the bov vents may cause an issue. But as long as it vents before reaching the turbo i guess its doing its intended job

UAS sell that pipe Baz, all be it suited to the plazma-man plenum, but you could base your design on something similar... Is there any issues with running the BOV before the cooler?

After the install of my RB30DET with aftermarket turbo I have found the outlet pipe from the turbo is clashing with the Reservoir for the powersteering. What are the solutions to this? relocating the reservoir? aftermarket reservoir? If so where are they available from?

very interesting! how do they do it though when the GTR seems to be out spec'd by the porsche??

bump

Anyone care to share what they did with their carbon canister hoses?