pkblade

Yeah Nissan specify to use Dexron III, Ive been using Castrol Transmax Z for the past 11,000+kms & with 107,000 on the clock & over 200kw atw the trans still goin strong .

How else are you ment to get those remaining droplets off the bonnet & boot , the blow dryers at the car wash dont do such a great job.

turned out pretty noice . Why did only one come with the web address?

Do they have to be APP brake lines? Although, not listed on Nengun, email them & Im sure they'll give you a quote for a set. Anyways here some listed on Perefectrun http://www.perfectrun.com.au/performance%2...ppbrakeline.htm

Its very easy to install & there are a number of ways to hook it up depending on what sort of catch tank you have. The most difficult thing about the install would be deciding where to position it . Have a read of this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20tank&st=0

Dont remember what I was quoted for the full manual valve body but, you can try emailing KEAS for one http://www.keas.com.au/contact.htm Here are some approx costs for the second set up: MV Auto shift controller $260 B&M 4speed gated or ratchet shifters $200-400 (check out ebay) RE401A selector brackets for shifter $50 Labour for the above is about $300 Also, your current shifter console surround will no longer fit so, a custom one will need to be fabricated. + Shift kit $350 (exchange). You might find interesting to know according to Mike from MV Auto's a healthy RE4 trans w/ supporting mods is good for up to 300rwkw without touching the planetary gear set, whereas Paul from KEAS believes its only good for 240rwkw. BTW how many km's has your trans done?

SCS=Small Car Sunday I wouldn't mind being part of a SAU stand if there were to be one. You mean NE burbs right .

Check out http://www.instantwin.com.au/ Then go to >Products & Services >Stone chip repairs & see if it is repairable or needs replacing. I got mine replaced by them a couple yrs ago here in SA & it set me back around $225 fitted (Item no: DN08401SF).

Sorry wasnt too sure what you meant, havent heard that term before...'quickshift'. If your planning to stick with the RE4RO1A, there are two main ways to go manualised auto/ clutchless manual/ semi-automatic or what ever you want to call it: 1) Manual valve body & sports shifter (optional); or 2) MV Auto's electronic shift controller, shift kit (optional but recommended) & sports shifter (optional). I took the later path w/ the ever so popular B&M pro-ratchet shifter. Clicky to check out the range -> http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=produ...sid=2&cat=2 With either of the 2 options you can install stand alone computers (ie. Power FC, Motec etc) . Also, if you decide to get a B&M shifter, MV Auto's have the custom brackets for it to fit.

Cheers Steve, fingers crossed she should be nicer to look at come SCS . Its not overly low, from center of wheel to guard is approx 360mm (front) & 350mm (rear).

Over the weekend finally spotted in town that yellow baby Lambo (Gallardo) everyone keeps mentioning. Then on the way home I left a trail of drool on Nth East Rd while following this F430 . When I pestered the owner obliged to the 0-60km, would have luved to hear it at wot though. Unfortunately had to peel off & leave the stallion to quench my thirst at Sub-way (Modbury), where one of my twins decided to park nxt to me .

I think he means 'shift kit', unless he plans to go manual . The upgraded valve body (exchange) from MV Automatics is around $350.

& some more...

I guess your friend didnt stick around to see the R34 (CRD's RH9) to go on to make 600+ atw . If all goes well for Sunday they're planning to run again this time with the giggle gas on.edit: That 200SX (S15) would've been GT Autosounds drag car.

Interested. Do you know what the $RRP will be?

For the several weeks that I was in full automatic mode with the shift kit (upgraded valve body) I frequently utilised the engine break to mainly go around corners.Constant gear changes will generate more heat but, proper service at appropriate intervals, good ATF & ATF cooler the trans should last longer & delay the inevitable. Yeah thats pretty much right. The upshifts aren't harsh (except 1st to 2nd gear change when driving off slowly from idle) whether on the gas or cruising but, you do feel more push back into the seat at full throttle compared to stock. To begin with the auto ECU isn't always predicatble especially depending how far you got the pedal down when in D, coz things can get hairy when cornering in 3rd (or O/D) & it decides to kick down a gear . But, normally if foot is firmly planted in 2nd & then up-shift it will go into & stay in 3rd.

Goin back a few years I remember Advan Performance stocked these badges.

What mods have you done to your car? As mentioned above the OEM torque converter & pump aren't very effecient & is a major culprit for generating heat & absorbing power. With that said when I had a full auto it still held its own when compared to a mates manual (& prob other manuals too) with almost identical mods & boost levels (except 3" split dump/front pipe & 3.5" cat v 3" single dump/front pipe & 3" cat). I managed 192rwkw vs his 187rwkw both tuned on the same dyno & tuner.

Its not the SARD fuel reg one but, download the T-Reg Pro insallation instructions to get a basic idea. http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=downloads Just curious why did you get an adjustable FPR when you have a stock fuel system?

I realise the percentage calculations method is flawed but, its a quick way to get a good guesstimate. BTW RWD has slightly more of a drivetrain loss than FWD.

A general rule of thumb for (manual) drivetrain loss for newish cars is: AWD 18% RWD 14% FWD 12% So for RWD - Given that 700cc~700hp 700hp - 14% = 602rwhp (~449rwkw)

This is the reply I just received when I enquiried about it 2wks ago. Good Morning Patrick I apologise for the delay in responding to your email as I have just received it due to the original recipient being on sick leave. If you could supply me with your telephone number or care to ring me, I would be happy to assist you with your enquiry. I can assist you with some of your basic questions. Corporate plates do only come in the standard size as you mentioned and according to the Government Gazette the front and rear plates have to look the same, ie that front cannot be displayed as a corporate and the rear as a normal custom. You can keep your existing registration number and place that on the corporate plate, logos can be reproduced according to your specifications and a sash along the bottom of the plate displaying your message. Rullings that apply to custom plates which can be up to six digits are an annual cost of $190 and seven digits $240 (as in your case); and personalised being a one off fee of $170 showing six digits being a mix of alpha-numeric, with the alpha first, remain the same when transferring these to a corporate plate. If your car club members have the normal alpha numeric Festival State plates those numbers can be transferred at no extra cost. Corporate plate agreements cost $180 Artwork starts at $300+GST. Once you have paid for the artwork any number of plates can be reproduced without the artwork fee being charged again. When applying for the Corporate Plates you will need to contact our Product Marketing section at PO Box 1, Walkerville 5081. You will need to provide a copy of your logo and supply the slogan you would like displayed on the plate and product marketing will prepare the artwork for your Corporate Plate. I hope this answers your initial enquiry, but please call me direct so that I can assist you in more detail. Kind regards Jackie McEwen Product Marketing Officer Department for Transport, Energy and Infrastructure There's no mention of having an ABN as a prerequisite when applying for them. If it werent for the fact that you have to pay an additional $180 for the plates I would definately be in.

If you dont mind waiting till Monday (17th) for payment I'll take it. Require postage to Adelaide.

Firstly have you properly checked the fluid levels? coz, flaring rpm's between gears will happen if the auto trans oil is low or poor fluid supply. Also, are there any signs of reddish oil leaks?

PK is my nickname & BLADE coz, I was a fan of the movie. When I was lookin for number plates these two separately, were taken so I just combined them.