paulR32gtr

I am running standard AFM's and injectors so you can get away with it. If you have the cash for Nismo AFMs then they are a good idea, especially if your stockies are getting old. I did put a nismo fuel pump in however which is also for a bit of security. Just make sure you got a spare $16 odd grand firstly to buy all the bits, and then get Racepace to put it all on and tune it - or if your going to do it yourself you might save around $3k. I just drove it out loaded up with goodies the day I left for targa tas and said "fix it" - knew there was no way I could come back to a slow stocky GTR after fanging one around tassie for a week - and there was no way I was going to put myself through changing the turbos on another rb26 for at least a year.

Nismoid said cam gears.. definitely a good cheap option. I love my GT-SS's - they are so damn responsive. I'm getting peak of 292rwkw on 16-17psi, on a 19 year old engine that has never been rebuilt and showing no signs of slowing down. Ben seems to tune on what feels right - depending on what car you get - an early 33 you will probably end up with something like mine, or a late model 34 around 310-320. I am sure you could ask him to tune it as a hand grenade, but not worth it in my opinion Only gripe I have with the Power FC - and I believe this is an R32 only thing - it coughs constantly - like 3 - 4 times a drive. I am personally starting to think about something else like those new Links or the latest Wolf.

Mine has a couple - mine was in a minor accident hit in the driver rear back in Japan. With the repair they didn't seal it up properly so the water got in in the boot jamb (under where the sealant is) and a tiny one down in the wheel well down in the corner. Very minor job and has hardly changed since I imported it - but I want to get someone to really fix it properly. GTRBOS - who did you use? - im in Melbourne also

Yeah im an idiot - friday night drinks + mechanical work = no sale. The tapered R32 nuts do work!

Yeah - on the wheel they are not tapered like the 32 ones - they are flat and need a washer. Can anyone with an R34 GTR confirm?

Just bought some stocky R34 GTR rims for my R32 GTR. So of course the nuts are different because nothing ever to do with car's is easy. I went to Autobarn - they had the two sorts - tapered (as per R32 GTR) and washered - which appeared to match the R34 wheels. Problem is the nuts I got do not slip inside the hole, they are too big? Is there a specific R34 GTR type of nut?

Just bought some stocky R34 GTR rims for my R32 GTR. So of course the nuts are different because nothing ever to do with car's is easy. I went to Autobarn - they had the two sorts - tapered (as per R32 GTR) and washered - which appeared to match the R34 wheels. Problem is the nuts I got do not slip inside the hole, they are too big? Is there a specific R34 GTR type of nut?

My only advice would be bid at auction. That stock shown is usually sitting in a car yard, so the dealer has already bought the car at auction, put a mark up on it - then sold it to you. For my next car - i'm going to Japan to find it.

Mine is doing this too - such a pain. I think Paul you might be on to something with the pins - going to get in and push on each of the IGN wires hope it makes a different. Some days it wont do it at all, other days it will do it every 15 minutes.

You'll be fine don't worry - it's just a personal preference I just noticed my cars would run differently from tank to tank on optimax. Been on BP only for a good couple of years now so a bit out of the loop. I had a wierd problem where fuel guage was not registering fuel in the tank for a couple of tanks worth of optimax - filled up with ultimate and fuel guage came back straight away. I do remember quite a while ago a thread about all of this - apparently back then the Optimax started out as a 91 unleaded then was boosted with toluene aromatics and sulphur or something, whereas the ultimate was brewed as 98 at the refinery - sure there are others on here with expertise in all of this. This was quite a while ago and Shell has changed their fuels around a fair bit so maybe other people that use it regularly might be able to comment.

It has ethanol in it yeah or is it just the old optimax 98? Honestly I just steer clear of shell these days - optimax just went so downhill whereas bp ultimate always seems to be up to scratch. Are you still on the standard ECU? Closed loop mode would be where the fuel saving is coming from where the computer tries to bring mixtures up to stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

Let her drive it? After it last got back from Racepace with 290 odd rwkw her and her friend stole it while i was out on a bender - apparently tormented a couple of guys in a rexxie feathering the throttle... makes me quite proud! Father is a well known russian race driver though so its in her blood.

Mint ice blue over white '86 ET Pulsar. Highflowed turbo. Was in immaculate condition the guy had built it up from a shell with heaps of brand new genuine parts. Was devestated friday night finished work in tullamarine on way back home across the bolte onto the westgate freeway pulled up behind an accident and a falcon changed into the same lane braking from 100km/h - hit me at about 80km. Crushed the poor little tin can. Got another one after that but was just not the same - still did everything to it - wired in a Microtech LT-8, s14 200sx T28 on 18psi, rx7 i/c etc etc - quick little bastard. Then decided I needed something a little faster from the factory...

Yeah same here with my 32 gtr - hits a certain water temp, timing map changes and the car feels normal, wait for the engine oil to get 70deg and lift off.

I hate those stupid bloody water lines on the GTR... would be a pleasure to only have to worry about hooking up oil lines (hate them as well though)... can't wait until foil bearings are used for turbochargers. I have run water cooled turbos without water before without any problems - I do remember hearing somewhere that timing your car down is more important with oil only turbos for heat transfer reasons.

Think of a housing as essentially a cone that is wrapped around the exhaust wheel. For an exhaust housing think of the A as the area of inlet where ex. gases are flowing in to the housing. Then think of the R as the distance from the center of the wheel to the center of the inlet or "cone" where A is measured. The housing is a measure of controlling the velocity of the exhaust gases - smaller housing = quicker spool but less flow / more chance of back pressure buildup forcing exhaust gasses back into the cylinders, larger housing = slower spool but more flow. I guess the idea with response is to have an exhaust housing small enough to keep as close to the line of reversion without it occurring. Makes your head hurt thinking about it... Here is a crude diagram I found - not completely accurate but close.

area/radius ratio - so a 16 cyl truck turbo can have a .42 exhaust housing as can a little Garret GT17

If the seals have gone on your turbo the compressor wheel will most likely be drowning in oil. This may also be the case with blowby so just check the oil breather hose it would be filled with oil if heaps has come through it.

its not your starter motor sticking? is there actually a sound that continues on while the car is warming up?

Mine works a treat - pulsing dangerously slow obviously? Not sure about replacements - they would most likely be quite illegal (insurance) and not worth the hassle of custom lines etc. I would just rebuild / fix the problems with the existing one I guess.

Correct me if I am wrong, but a cushioned clutch simply has a sprung center, which means it will give a little bit when contacting the flywheel. The plain button clutch does not do this, so if all conditions were the same, the cushioned one would last a bit longer. For you however, it sounds like it comes down to the pressure plate - it's not clamping hard enough and the flywheel is running on the friction plate causing premature wear. I have an Extra heavy duty Xtreme in a 290 odd rwkw gtr and I would not go with anything else - we used one at Targa Tas and it took a beating. Took me 3 1/2 years of daily driving to kill my last one - pretty good as far as I am concerned. Jim Berry's sound like a good option too if you have the spare time to talk on the phone. Maybe save for another month or so and get something that won't bother you again.

That Impala is sweeeet. I want to give a 2 door VP Valiant the same sort of treatment when I finally get some space. Much as I am looking forward to how the LF-A comes out would have to take the GTR.

How about loose nuts between the exhaust manifold and the turbo exhaust housing I have had that on turbo cars where with this being loose, and the gasket flapping around making a pulsing sound...

Turbos generally spin at up to 130,000rpm - any bearing issues will show up very quickly in a seized turbo / blown seals pissing oil everywhere. Almost sounds like something loose in your intake - is there anything loose in the intake side of your intercooler?

^ Agreed. I don't understand the need for the "youth of today" using dat wif sik stuf - but we may as well just turn this place into a wiki where every single question in the world regarding skylines has already been answered - and don't dare ask it again.