GTRsean

It basically reduces the turbulence that happens from the front pressurised turbo air that meets at right angles to the pressurised air from the rear turbo. Putting that splitter in forces the air to take the same direction as the air from the rear turbo. Think of two water hoses fed into a big hollow pipe, if you shoot one down the end of the pipe and stick the other hose in at right angles you upset the flow of water out the end. Now if you direct both hoses in the same direction, you will get a less turbulent, 'cleaner' flow down the pipe. Nissan thought meh, for a standard car, but Nismo fixed it with their turbo outlet piping kit, similar to the HKS setup. So instead of the boost fluctuating at light to medium throttle loads etc, it is a lot more stable on boost, and car drives nicer! Would even help a stock turboed GTR up GT-RS (-10) turbo equipped 32-34GTRS (okay, maybe not -10's, GT-RS's)

You are welcome

AHHHHH! the pipe is beside itself!!! Me too!, I told him to get it done

Lost a rhs one! Half smashed off. Bloody 4wd! Damn it was close...

GTS-T FTW they are single turbo monsters!!!

PCV valve is closed under boost, it is open under vacuum only.

Dual entered on one car. Will bring paperwork on the day. I'll use my free ticket (helped last time), and deposit money for Karchers entry.

About Dan's point 2. I have done 2 R32 GTRs now with Z32's and stock setup. I just redrilled holes in the stock airbox to mount and seal Z32's. The stock intake rubber piping will stretch a bit to fit the Z32's as well.

Lol, GATTTTTTEEEE!!!!! Good to be home!

It's the ATTESSA awd system pump reservior, RHS in boot. Nissan matic D. The Power steering reservior under the bonnet, behind the airbox does the front and rear steering racks (HICAS), due to the dual pump, power steering pump. Power steering fluid. (R33 and 34s run single power steering pump and electric power steering at the back).

Yeah you and Nickzilla! pity you guys can't go!

I wasn't told by some keyboard warrior, I talked to a well known workshop that has specialised in GTRs as well as Z's for years and years, and 2 gearbox specialists. Also some of the US forums, but just for info. I used smurfs blood, redline shock proof (Blue stuff) in the GTR......32. Blew 3rd gear out 3 weeks later....

Runs from attessa pump assembly, to actuator on the back of the transfer case. Just lubes the pump seals, actuator seals etc.

Not if it is that much vacuum, that any oil mist entering the can gets sucked straight into the intake pipe! Restrictor is in the pipe from factory and has a smaller hole to restrict the amount of blowby gas/oil mist going into the intake. Mine was that bad, it was acting like an octane reducer...

Went the engine shop this arvo and did some stuff. Started with weighing the pistons, and difference between lightest and heaviest was 1.1 grams. Weight matched CP pistons to less than 0.1 gram to each other after using linisher and digital scales. Weighed gudgeon pins and they were all the same. Then was told that the engine oil could make up 5 grams difference in weight in an engine. Oh well at least they are all the same. Drilled out the head oil returns to the size of the head gasket. Crank will get grubscrewed as they use aluminum plugs on the ends of the big end oil drill holes. Also got to setup a 304 V8 crank with bob weights on a crankshaft balancing machine, what a pain!! At least inline 4's, 6's, 8's don't need bob weights, you just need the pistons, rods etc to be spot on and all the same.

I was told shockproof super light, and or one of the special royal purple gbox oils, are a light oil. Reason is that the getrags run fibre lined synchros and they can burn out/be damaged by a thicker oil (that's what I was told a while back). Also Redline claims on the back of it's container that it has a viscosity of 30 but offers the protection of a much thicker oil...something like that. Getrags are cheap, aren't they

I used transmax z. Worked a treat in my 32GTR for years, and years..

I like the bottom pic, looks 'cleaner'.

Hey Owen, I just changed to the nismo setup as I was having oil into the intake issues. You will need to put a restrictor in the line that goes into the rear turbo inlet pipe, I didn't do that silly me. The stock rubber pipe had one in it(cam cover outlet to rear turbo inlet pipe). It draws a lot of vacuum on boost!

I'll let you know. Glad I'm not handing over my dough, I'm broke lol!!

I'm guessing that if you used an RB20DET or na RB30 5 speed it would work. RB25DET box bellhousing is bigger and a bit longer, as the box is massive compared to the others!

Windsor engine reconditioners are doing the machining. The modified oldschool g clamp my dad gave me years ago to do pushrod engines won't cut it on these heads , because they are so deep. And I couldn't be bothered buying one, making/modifying stuff is cool.

Head is stripped down, and will get sent off to get cleaned, machined. My tool I made up years ago to remove the valve collets on these heads.

Running transmax z, but I am going to try redline shockproof super light, this time.