GTRsean

Haha, seriously though he was going on about a VH45 twin turbo.....

This is the last dyno tune I had, -9's, nismo pump, 555cc injectors, nismo AFM's, cam gears, stock engine. Figures in all wheel killerwasps. Since then I have fitted a different boost controller and the wastgates are now set to open at 16PSI with controller off. Needs another tune to set boost controller and get rid of the drop in boost pressure. 22PSI tune to follow. I'll let you guys know....

Ha ha yeah...sort of. Just ignore the few nice runs in the clear coat...

Cheers, yeah moths go crazy with the fumes! His aim would be 400kw at the wheels. This would be at 24psi or so. Running 98 octane fuel, we shall see!

Nice work! I mentioned in another thread about using air duster can upside down, same thing. And also heated up the area around the stud to make it easier to tap out.

Maybe also a crank collar would be a good idea......

Ha ha good one!! All the facebook stuff yesterday with go holden etc. I put up Go nissan!! and got some likes

Was white, yay spotted!

It's fine for an absolutely standard car... As soon as boost is wound in etc, it is inadequate

They work well, as long as you run a decent amp and are not after 140dB!! I have a soundstream slimline in my 34, powered by a monoblock amp.

I'd say the gauge has electronic dampener to delay the oil pressure sender input. Don't think that anyone has tried modding the gauge. I put an aftermarket oil temp and pressure gauge in the glovebox for 32GTR, stealth!

Location?

Hit the end of the shaft with a punch, with the housing secured in a vice. Sounds like the plastic outer case is stuck in the casing. The whole shebang should come out then.

Change the oil in it first.... Was going to add 'with something decent'

Gtr ones will be easier to retro fit to earlier models than the V35 brembo's. Offsets are different, GTR one's will fit by taking a disc and re-drilling it to a 4 stud pattern. Adapters at the worst. Bolt sizes are different between the 32 and 33-34 brembos too. disc size is still 324x30 though. Search brembos and you'll probably find the info you require, hope that helps. Cheers

Never seen it on a stock gauge. They are slow so that normal people don't freak out when the gauges swing around!! I've only seen it on aftermarket gauges.

Yeah tell me about it Just finished painting the engine bay. Put the base coats of silver on then the clear coats after 20mins. Damn moths and things trying to lick the paint! Glad I got it done tonight, as I didn't want to paint Sunday as well. Just have to de-mask some of the stuff. I'll put up some better pics tomorrow.

You have to take the white plastic lever fork out first. It's what the solenoid pulls on to move the gear out to engage the flywheel. Once you get the fork out, it should come apart.

Oil rings?

Solid lifters in the head as above, and the 05U RB26 rods in the Neo bottom ends allow more RPM's

Nope, never had that problem. That could be from excessive blowby causing oil buildup in the breather pipes on the cam covers, then getting sucked into intake.. turbo oil seals, valve stem seals worn, unlikely. Do you run an oil catch can?

Lol! So, as Sloane said, I'll be helping him get his car back on the road, and into the 10's , he has to beat my 12.001 quarter mile time first! Car is being prepped for engine bay painting, and I made up a booth to spray in (hung up plastic). Primer coat is down, just needs a sand and the silver base coat will go on tomorrow. Engine wise, it will get the full build treatment, but keeping in budget constraints. A few things to note with the engine upon pulling it down: It was the stock 86mm bore, it was just honed when the arias pistons were fitted. When Sloane had the engine 'fixed' by the last workshop: Engine out etc: They fitted JUN oil pump, no oil restrictor was fitted, just the stocker 2.0mm. They changed the big end bearings due to a knocking, put in stock nissan bearings, mains weren't changed, they were ACL's and had scoring, probably from the first build... For all that $12,000+ roughly. The only things that I won't be doing will be block machining, crank balance etc. I need to clean the cylinder head, then send it in to get checked and skimmed.

I had to buy a new switch for my 32GTR when I had it. The problem is that the switch has 4-5 amps of current going through it x2 to power the headlights. They didn't use a relay!! So after 15+ years the switch gives up and melts/burns it's insides. You can usually see heat damage on the white plug that plugs into the switch. My solution was, buy a new switch from nissan. The proper solution would be to fit a relay into the headlight wiring to get the high current load out of the switch and just get it to switch the relay on and off.

Change the speedo cable, it may be broken, or the plastic drive bit in the end of the cable, at the back of the speedo.

You seem to be pulling lots of G's!!! in acceleration. About the only way to fix would be: In order of cost: Turn the boost down Trapdoor sump baffle, eg tomei,(stops some of the oil from going to the back of the sump, away from the oil pickup), stock baffle is not that effective, except for stock vehicle... sump extension with sump baffle (deeper sump to keep oil pickup sucking oil, not air and also holds more oil) dry sump set up, now we are talking $$$$ (race car stuff, running semi's, slicks, high HP, G's). Feel free to add any other ideas.