GTRsean

Hmmm thought there was something I still had to do lol! WSID soon! Need to buy another helmet due to standards bullcrap.

From when I got it tuned a while back, they didn't finish it due to the metal cat converter shitting itself, and partially blocking the exhaust. Has a couple of othe lines from other cars lol. Done over 17,000k now and running well. Blew my rebuilt gbox a few months back, so put in another stocker, number 4 now I think. Only things I'd like to fix up is: Top ring gap, currently 21thou want 14 thou. Sump vent, plumb one in to let oil in head drain back down, when on track days at high revs it half fills the catch can with oil. Sump baffle, trap door and bigger sump.... Other than that it's good. Revs to 9k but I don't have to as peak power is around 7400. Gets oil and filter change every 3000k. Track days, it gets dumped asap.

Ha ha. The pump cost me $250 roughly a couple of years back. I'm going to get the inner gear crack tested and reassemble. I built my eng near the end of last year with forged bits http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/En...&hl=rebuild but, I don't mind pulling it apart to do a few other little things...like fit this pump, sump baffle, sump extension, extra sump vent line, replace and gap top rings to factory specs etc.

Pics of front as promised!! Looks a lot like that pic other than the logo! Just checked prices brand new.....wow!! Thanks for your input JD!

To sort out the engine mount misalignment, went and got an R32 front crossmember to line up the mounts better. Yet to switch em but it looks like it'll do the trick.

One word for ya........CAMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Still got me stumped!! I might get NDI to test the gear for cracks and might use it if I rebuild the eng again! Haven't seen anything like it before, 85mm outer gear dia, nothing similar I have searched. It was sold to me second hand as an N1 pump.... Alloy pressure relief valve plug, not anodised. Oil pressure outlet is cast smooth, not drilled and machined out and plugged. If anyone knows the type or who made it please let me know!!

Very nice!!! Hope you got a tough gearbox!!

Money deposited!! I'd say group 3.....maybe.

Nizpro actually had billet replacement gears made for the barra 6's as they had a few engines break stock pump gears too....

Check when cold: Intake: .45mm Exhaust: .38mm

Bolted up gearbox after fitting new input shaft seal etc. Here's the auto trans crank bushing, also had to chop a bit off the end of the input shaft due to machining of bellhousing. Test fitting of engine and gbox, and view of the eng mounts. Still have to weld in the rest of the mounts. Under the car.... Neat fit!!. Also have to get a smaller brake booster to clear the cam cover. The clutch cylinder is hitting on the cam cover so it'll have to be moved up. You can see how far forward the eng mount is compared to the crossmember mount. Once a booster and flare spanners are purchased more stuff will get done.

Got more stuff back now. Water pump and gearbox bellhousing, adapter plate and fasteners. Adapter plate fits sweet, and no need to space the flywheel etc. Clean gears!, and spigot bearing fitted after pulling out auto bushing. Adapter plate fitted to back of block. attachment=245399:VH45_build_up_011.jpg] Adapter plate bolted in and flywheel fitted. Clutch installed and clearance around starter hole. Bell housing test fitted after grinding bumps off inside of bellhousing to clear ring gear, starter bolted on with spacer plate. A spacer plate for the starter motor was needed as we used a turbo flywheel, which is bigger in diameter than a non turbo flywheel.

Bought one the other day in a bundle for $498 from JB. It lasted a day then the cd drive motor shit itself, couldn't get the disc out other than the forced eject function. Took it back the next morning and got it exchanged for another one, no probs. I'd prefer one made in Jp (the early one's). I got the extended warranty for it too when I got it replaced, extra piece of mind!! Batman game is cool!!!!

How about a stock R35 GTR??!

K, me plus one passenger....Cheers Sam.

Count me in, it's like 7mins from where I live lol!!!

Front crank seal started to leak on my r33GTR eng a few years back, pulled balancer off and changed it in situ. No more leak. Rear seal was still good. My 33 RB26 eng comp tested with stock cams at 155-160psi.

I still want to know what the hardness of the material is in a stock vs N1 pump. I'm currently using a stock R33GTR pump on a R33 GTR crank/R33 based bottom end, and it's been the same pump for the 5 years I've had the car. Good so far,....touch wood!

Attesa system bled in accordance with factory service manual?, following clutch change?. This can cause fishtailing, rwd grip issues. Can't put power down enough outta corners etc.

I used a new stocker on my build, and I'm happy... Couple of track days but 99% street driven.

Pics??

Search button works quite well too.... Why do I bother....

Mine did that once. Don't trust the stock gauge. Nissan oil senders are notoriously bad for it. Also the connectors get crap in em and give ramdomly low readings to. If you are worried fit an aftermarket oil pressure sender and gauge, or test oil pressure at workshop. I have and aftermarket oil temp and oil pressure gauge. Cheers.

+1 Been running nulon 10w40 full syn for 2 years now and I'm also happy with it. I changed oil and filter every 5000k, then after rebuild did it every 3000k, and straight after track days. Also happy with cold and hot running pressures and engine is smooth.