s13_Skyline_inside

50 zones are a bad place to speed anyway and especially on northern beaches, the back roads are pretty thin, and you don't have much warning if anything is going to pop out onto the road, and back road's arent usually in good condition, ie pot holes, the bloke could have given it a bit of a squirt bounced abit on a deformity in the road, car has bitten and speared of into the trees unfortunately, if the car was rego'd he might have taken in on monavale road and had a bit more of a chance. oh and btw adgey that's a classic avatar, completely random

r33gtst and r34 gtt suspension is the same, gtr is different setup in the front im pretty sure, when i bought my coilovers for my 34 founf out they were the same for 33

hi guys thinking of putting evo 6 tommy makinen edition onto my r34 gtt, have looked at the other threads about this but no one posted up how they went with the project. does anyone know if this is worth doing, i would be getting the calipers and rotor front and back, and I have all standard stuff on my gtt. any input is appreciated thanks

have you thought about a fuel cooler on the return line. how have you got it plumbed up. do you have the return returning to the main tank or the surge tank? if you have it returning to the main tank it will cool the fuel down more as the is more fuel in the main tank

I dont really race on the road anymore i still give it a hit every now and then. but ive always had this thing if a holden ford or a camry comes racing up behind me or is baiting me at the lights just ignor them cause theres a good chance they are cops. especially if they stick or tailgate you

hehe flames are cool, but yeh id check it out cause id rather not wear the fine than have flames

man thats so lucky, but howd they nick it without breaking the steering lock and cutting out the imobilizer? kinda need a key to get past the steering lock without breaking it, id be pretty carful with your keys and instal a kill switch

sold please delete

just plumb the external gate back into the exaust, just dont vent it to atmosphere, then you should be fine

I dont think its that simple, im pretty sure you need to either weld up the holes from the seat belts or put bolts in them and then take it to an engineer, blue slip guys cant engineer things, they read what the car has been engineered for and then say yes the car is like that, so you'd need to carry out the work on the car, get an engineers cert for it, then take it with the engineers cert to get a blue slip place then that place would pass you on the inspection as a two seater car then you take it to the rta and re register it as a two seater

I need the actual handbrake, would preffer syd so i can pick up, pm me

i dont have much to say but sh1t, hopfully the cooler caught all the bits of wheel

oh and im pretty sure, not 100% but some euro cars dont machine their discs, they replace them.

whats all this crap about not machineing skyline rotors, thats the biggest load of crap ive ever heard, you should be machining your discs whenever you replace pads so they bed in properly, and they get warped by things like getting them hot then having to sit at traffic lights with your foot on the break, thats why when you finish your ;aps at the track you dont put your handbreak on you just let the car sit there so they can cool down with no uneven pressure, yes they are floating, not need for torque specs. and after time your rotors will get glazed, thats one reason for squeal and another reason to machine them when you get new pads, when they wear they dont wear flat they will get grooves in them, if you just scratch them up a bit you wont make them flat, then when you put your new pads in they wont be contacting the whole surface and will wear unevenly. also your disc will warp easier the thinner they are.

does it really matter if its a series one or two, if its just a case of oil drain and some fitting a machinist can tap some holes in it where ever, or is it somthing major, like walls of the bore are thinner or sumtin

Part - xtreme sr20 clutch Age - not used Condition - exelent Price - $400 What engine - sr20det Contact - PM part number is KN124003DSBHD, these are great clutches for street and some track work. It offers 860kg clamping load which is 40% higher than standard.

why no more than 250kw torque burns clutches not KW

thanks ill have a look

ive got an rb26 plenum thats old and ratty looking how can i get a similar finish to the r34 gtr or nismo ones, i think getting it sandblasted just wasnt sure, anyone know how to get this done?

thats the one im talking about, so Wogboy with your son's one you opened the sensor up and was just a loose connection, can it be soldered with normal soldering or is dry solder something different?

the power goes into the fuse tray then gets distributed to where it needs to go, doesnt follow 1 set path like ecu first then go to head lights etc. I'd get an auto sparkie to look at it just to be safe, im sure you dont want to break anything else by accident

id get it towed there, just let him know its a brand new engine never been started and he should know what to do with it

dont get me into these conspiracy therories or ill be here all day

sorry abo bob but the sender you've posted is the boost sender for the ecu, the boost sender for the in cabin gauge is seperate and is located inbetween the guard and the brake master cylinder, its a larger oval shaped unit, pretty hard to miss if you look where i said one of my mates has the same problem as well, but havnt had enough time to have a good look at it, we gunna try swapping the sender units over and see if that stops it, if not then yeh it'd be a wiring problem.

yeh i searched "exaust butterfly controler" and nothing came up, didnt know about the apexi one, you could probably hook up a servo like from a model plane or sumtin and just have it hooked to a variable resistor