JH32

We weren't that bad, were we! hehe With regard to point 2 above, we just have no idea where to start. As mentioned, we have ECU and wiring schematics for both the RB25DE and the RB26DETT however somehow we have ended up with the original RB25 lower harness still connected to the fusebox etc, and the RB26 lower harness went in with the car which I think was partially connected to the gearbox and perhaps the starter motor? Anyhoo - we now have 2 sets of battery terminal connections etc. Advice muchly appreciated! So annoying because the engine is just sitting there begging to be started!

Cheers mate, I keep a regular eye on that thread which is why I thought something was amiss given my 118ish mph. The ~330rwkw mark was always my 'target' I suppose so I'll get it back on the dyno in the new year and see if we can't figure out what's happening. Cheers again for the feedback, appreciate it

Nice work mate, looks good. What are you doing about the gearbox? Apparently there are some mods required getting it to fit the RB30 due to the AWD adapter plate?

I received mine in the mail just before Christmas, very nice piece of kit thanks Joe and while it's not fully fitted yet it looks as though it will go in perfectly

Hi guys, many thanks for the responses. Mico, I'm not sure to be honest mate, the cams were installed by the previous owner. As R31Nismoid indicated the MPH seems reasonable for a low 300 kilowatts but given it last dyno'd at 470rwhp (hub) I agree, there must be something at fault with the setup. Thanks guys, I will look into it As least there's potentially a few more MPH in it without changing too much!

I took my R32 GTR down to the drags tonight for the first time, and while I ran an 11.7 which I'm reasonably happy with I'm a bit concerned about the MPH. I have read quite a number of threads on here and given what others have run with similar setups I thought I would be quicker. My previous R32 made 410rwhp (roller dyno) and this one made 470rwhp on a hub dyno. Now sure, dynos are dynos and the true measure is MPH at the strip. However, my last 32 did 11.8 @ 118mph on that horsepower, and my current 32 went almost dead on the same at 117.5mph. I had 4 runs all up, 11.7 then missed gears on the next 2 and then the fourth run I did a 12.0 @ 116mph. I read through threads such as Marko's and with 325rwkw he was getting low 11s so I thought I would at least get 120-122mph. I have also studied the how to launch your GTR threads, the quarter mile in your 34 GTR thread etc etc. http://www.skylinesa...-gtr-the-creek/ Being that it was my first time at the drags with this car I didn't think I was going to get a great ET but should I have been expecting a higher mile per hour, or is it about on the money? Here are the results from my first and last runs: First 60' - 1.780 330' - 4.968 660' - 7.613 (speed was 151.73kph) 1000' - 9.863 ET - 11.776 MPH - 117.49 (189.08kph) Fourth 60' - 1.757 330' - 5.052 660' - 7.771 (speed was 147.84kph) 1000' - 10.112 ET - 12.062 MPH - 116.73 (187.85kph) The car's running a GT3582 @ c.19-20psi, has cams but not sure of specs, twin plate clutch. Tyres are Falken Ziex ZE912s (245s). Launch method was supposed to have been slip the clutch out at about 7000rpm but it turned into more of a sidestep at 7000rpm, and I tried to change gears as quickly as I could at about 7500rpm. Any insight, particularly with reference to the above times at various points down the track, is muchly appreciated so I can practice a little more knowledgeably next time

Great build mate, well done - really impressed how everything just fits so well. Who did the wiring? Looks like it would have been a tough job.

Fantastic! Well done!

I remember when the car was for sale but don't know who the forum member was. Anyway, looks like a great build coming up - looking forward to see how you go with it!

PM sent Datto

I always see the updates to this thread too late, I'm keen to come along to the next one though

From here: http://www.gtroc.org/shop/car-dress-up/skyline-gt-r-etched-fuse-box-cover/

Cheers guys, I actually spoke to Leon from Security in Motion yesterday (danielr34 above) who was extremely helpful - he suggested a variety of things. I'm not sure what happened but it appears that something must have drained the battery extremely quickly, and the next day the battery was completely flat (read: dead). Bought a new battery today and it all works again; I checked the amp draw at the battery as well and it was 0.05A so absolutely no idea how the battery died so quickly. But all fixed, thanks very much for the replies

Ok, feel a bit silly now. I fiddled all weekend without success yet somehow managed to get it out tonight. For others that get stuck at the same point, I managed to get a stubby 12mm ring spanner on the lower nut and turned it about 1/8 of a turn at a time. Then pulled the clutch master off, then heaved the booster out. Now time for a braided clutch line

I can't seem to pull it any further forward though

Hi guys Over the weekend I thought I'd replace my clutch master cylinder and brake booster. I did a bunch of research before starting, and it sounded like an easy enough job. It probably would have been if the nuts inside the car weren't so hard to get off and if I didn't round the fitting on the the hard line to the clutch master and somehow ruin my alarm in the process Anyway - I'm now stuck ... I have undone all nuts under the dash on both the clutch and the brake pedals (including the pins on both the clutch and brake pedals) and have pulled the brake master forward as far as I can to try and extricate the clutch master and booster. But it doesn't seem to come far enough that the brake booster will allow the cluch master/booster to get past. Do I need to detach the clutch master from the brake booster? Only problem is, I can't seem to undo the lower nut. There just doesn't seem to physically be enough room to remove the whole assembly. Any help appreciated.... Car is a BNR32 vspec2 (not sure if the brake booster is bigger than normal but most posts I've seen say "just pull it forward a bit and she'll be right").

Also put new batteries in both key fobs, didn't make any difference. The little red light comes on but has no effect on the car. A real pain not just because I can't finish off the master cylinder but because I can't roll it back in the garage

Hi I've had the biggest mess around with the car today trying to change the clutch master cylinder, and after my third and last trip to Repco in the wife's car I got back home, pressed the key fob to unlock the Skyline and the alarm started going off. I'm not sure if I pressed the button too many times or what has happened, but none of the buttons will respond. The car won't unlock, lock, nothing. I can open the car door with the key but I can't do anything else; if I put the key in the ignition and press buttons nothing happens. After not being able to undo the ridiculously placed nut on the brake booster, and then rounding the little nut on the hardline to the master cylinder, I'm sure the car just doesn't want a new master cylinder after all. Any help is appreciated, I don't know if I've put it into some sort of emergency / panic mode but I have no idea how to reset it / get it back to normal. The key fob looks like the following pic, but I don't know what model Autowatch alarm it is, it came with the car

Not a Skyline but am sitting in the Woodside building and can see a white S14 having a photoshoot on top of the high rise carpark over the road...looks nice!

Haha, did well until the R35!

Deposit taken.

I bought an RB26 a while ago from a local bloke off these forums with the intention of building it into an RB30. It came out of his R33 GTR, not sure on the kays, apparently his dad put a bad batch of fuel in it and it started to 'make a knocking noise'. I never did anything with it except leave it in my garage, and now that I have bought something other than what I originally intended, am now on-selling the motor as it is surplus to requirements. The motor is being sold 'as shown' i.e. what's in the photos is what you get (except for the engine stand). There are no coil packs beneath the valley cover. There is also no sump/diff, and I took the head off to look at the head - threw the headgasket in the bin. Has the complete intake etc including fuel rail but no injectors. It will definitely need a rebuild as a) I bought it already busted, and b) it has sat in my dusty garage for the best part of the last ~6-8 months. Location is (west) Perth, WA Price is $1,200 ono - would prefer local pickup however can ship if buyer takes care of courier / payment. If interested you can PM me or my number is 0402 141 438. Thanks James

Here's one in Perth: http://japaneseperfo...id=20&Itemid=29

Bummer! I always enjoyed reading your updates, but am looking forward to the next!!

Pics worked for me mate, car looks great. I like the black rims