burn4005

on an unrelated topic, a video of an IS300 with an 9280 on a VVTi 2JZ-GTE for reference. looks like it goes pretty good. compressor sounds quite loud.

I would suggest that a 1.05 should work as the turbine does not need to do any additional work in this case, The nitrous is providing the extra oxidiser not the compressor. Which means that all of the extra exhaust energy from the additional nitrous combustion would need to be bypassed via Wastegates rather than fed through the turbine. 60lb/min of air trough the compressor, vs 60lb/min of air plus 300hp of nitrous is still the same compressor airflow, it's just that now you have a lot of extra exhaust flow to get rid of without overspeeding the turbo. Just my thoughts, I don't have any experience with 400hp of nos though!

8474 is the ticket then. if you're using nitrous as the power adder rather than boosting to the moon then a 8474 will do it. actually, even an 8374 will meet your goals provided you can wastegate the additional nitrous exhaust flow effectively. if you only want 600hp of turbo airflow and nitrous provides above that. but if you want to be able to stretch the turbo airflow to 900hp then nitrous on top of that for drags then 8474 is probably the go.

yep 8474 will be a great option for that kind of power. you'll need a big wastegate (or two) if you want to vent the exhaust volume a 400 shot of Nos will provide. depends if you want to use NOS as a torque fill/gas producer for spool assistance to get the 9280 moving. if not the 8474 is a streetable turbo, the 9280 less so. if you've got 400hp of nos on tap and a good tuner a 9280 would be a beast.

Ah that's my mistake. Cheers.

not appearing for me

Hi Just me popping into another thread to mention.... BUDGET FOR A CRANK TRIGGER.

Hi @Full-Race Geoff have you managed to get any 8474 results you are able to share (upgrades from 8374 extra useful). Alex

all you guys with EFR8474/EFR9280s are taking your time to get them running!

I have a super turbo on an R34, with an extra resonator in the front pipe. very quiet, no drone but gets a bit of a bark when you're up it. highly recommended. the exhaust is 85mm but necks down to a 3" flange at the Cat converter end. I had it chopped off with a 3.5" flange welded on after expanding the pipe to fit it. as stated, Tomei is MUCH louder.

It's bleeding off boost pretty heavily from peak torque rpm to redline. I'd say 550kw is doable. Unless it's being bled for turbo speed reasons, but it's impossible to tell if that's the case from the video. Based on comp map, 500kw is a fair way off Max airflow.

I got the turbos and manifolds off with. Basic set of spanners and a set of kincrome swivel head ratcheting spanners. Those things are super handy for tight spots. You can loosen manifold nuts one click at a time. The secret is to have a ratchet mechanism that is really tight and doesn't have too much angle between ratchet teeth.

It was rwkw

This is a good comparison as mine was also done on The pits Dyno. 8374 2.6 1.05ar. 490kw run was 190kpa (27.5psi) and I was limiting turbo speed as the 8374 was at 126k rpm, hence it nosing over.

I totally missed the fact you were bleeding off a lot of boost up top. I saw a post with 8474, 2.6l, 36psi and 500kw and thought it didn't add up. now I've seen the dyno sheet it makes a lot more sense. Carry on!

And it's probably more than that as exhaust backpressure x turbine expansion ratio piles on pretty fast. And your matchbot input numbers for exhaust backpressure are probably quite low.

That's quite low power for the boost on that turbo I would have thought. My 2.6 with 260 type B cams an an 8374 1.05 at 27psi made 495wkw on a mainline. Are you running a crank trigger?

Arp bolt with Arp Lube. It's a 12 point head which gives you a more stable base to yank ~450Nm on

it was about $1600, but you got the 1000hp ati balancer as well (which i was going to buy anyway)

If you want an easy solution JHH engineering do 12-1 or 36-2 trigger wheels welded to 1000hp ati balancers that are just a balancer swap and two sumb bolts for the hall sensors bracket. A few hours to install tops. Put an AEM 24-1 disc in the stock cas and use the single window for the reset signal and you're good to go.

Yea you are nuts running stock cas. At that kind of cylinder pressure/crank acceleration you're scatter would be 3 degrees plus easy. Being able to introduce 3 degrees of solid timing advance one the triggering is solid is huge power at 35psi.

i just set mine to 50% TPS OR 4000rpm with a 5 second re-activation delay. to stop it cycling.

if you've got plans for reasonably high power its worth going the 1000.. the 750hp damper is a 5.5" model so for me the recommended rebuild schedule make the 1000hp model a more attractive proposition for an engine making reasonable power. you need an ECU that will turn off the air conditioning clutch above a certain rpm as its 25% overdriven so you don't kill it. rebuild information from ATI's manual: http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf Recommended Maintenance Schedules For street and drag race motors and dampers greater than 5.5": up to 800 HP: damper should be rebuilt every 10 years Above 800 HP, Blown or Nitrous racing: damper should be rebuilt annually Circle Track / Endurance: dampers should be rebuilt during each engine rebuild For 5.5" dampers: 400 HP rebuild every 5 years • 400-600 HP rebuild every 2 to 3 years • 600+ HP rebuild every year

coates hire lift and shift will rent you a big f**k off warren and brown deflecting beam wrench and a 12 point socket (no ratchet on a W&B so a 6 point might not give you enough angular freedom) for about $60 bucks for 1/2 a day. I drove there, rented it, drove home *click*, took it back about 1 hr later. the 1" Drive Wrench is so long is reasonably easy to get the required torque. you only need to pull on it from the passenger side of the engine bay with about ~35-40kg of force depending where you grip it. my clutch will hold about double the bolt torque so i just put it in gear with the handbrake on and had no issues with the engine in car (radiator removed) and bonnet open.

329-344 ft lb